I Need Help With My Tailgate (Lot's of Pic's)

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  • Mr.Wagoneer
    232 I6
    • Jul 26, 2010
    • 244

    I Need Help With My Tailgate (Lot's of Pic's)

    Today I started to take a look at my tailgate, It works but it needs new wiring done because the harness melted. When that happened I dont know but I narrowed the cause down to a single wire for the tailgate light for the the license plate! When I first got the truck we were able to get the tailgate to work by slightly moving the harness but then quickly realized it wouldn't be going back up... after awhile we got lucky and randomly probed the "dash" switch wires with a continuity tester making the tailgate go up I think this is two problems my switch is broken and the tailgate wiring is fried! here are some pictures to give you a better idea



    That cut wire was the one that fried and melted the harness together I traced it and it looks to be the license plate courtesy light, If I'm wrong please tell me other wise, Now those two other wires on the same plug go ontop of Tailgate motor so I figure these are the wires that actuate the motor for up and down



    This is right before I cut and bypassed all the melted wires, I added the electrical tape there for the time being awhile ago, that whole area is melted and fried the wires are even melted farther back, and those two wire that are tangling out of the tailgate were what I think belong to a light that was removed one is a ground and the other is that wire I cut out that melted the harness pictured in the photo above this one.



    I just noticed this, I think this is part of the defroster but that unplugged wire was sitting in there like who ever did it wanted it to connect when obviously that wire dose not belong there, the connector is all bent from being forced to touch that prong



    This is some of the melted wires after I cut out that small white wire



    So for the two wire that run to the tailgate motor I bypassed the bad wires with new wire




    Even after all of this my tailgate wont work, SO Now I believe I should Replace the tailgate dash switch, it's a four wire switch two red one black and uhhh I forgot the fourth wire. What can I use to replace it? well any ol' Four wire window switch wire work?

    Also I found this hiding behind the Tailgate assembly unplugged What is this?

    Is there any way to jump the wires for down and up as a last resort?



    what is this ground for? the purple wire that that is highlighted red
    Last edited by Mr.Wagoneer; 05-05-2011, 03:02 PM.
    Year: 1983
    Make: AMC/Jeep
    Model: Wagoneer
    Trim: Limited
    ? AMC 360 5.9 Liter
    ? MotorCraft 2150 2 BBL Carb
    ? TF-727 3 Speed Automatic
    ? NP-229 Select-Trac Full/Part time transfer case
    ? Dana 44 Front Driver side drop AMC 20 Rear
    ? 109 in. Wheelbase
    ? 5975/6200 Lbs GVWR
    ? Manufactured in Toledo Ohio



  • Mr.Wagoneer
    232 I6
    • Jul 26, 2010
    • 244

    #2
    Wow...Well could sombody please tell me what sort of Switch I can use to replace the Dash Switch for the tailgate?

    99.99% Fixed Just need a new switch

    Year: 1983
    Make: AMC/Jeep
    Model: Wagoneer
    Trim: Limited
    ? AMC 360 5.9 Liter
    ? MotorCraft 2150 2 BBL Carb
    ? TF-727 3 Speed Automatic
    ? NP-229 Select-Trac Full/Part time transfer case
    ? Dana 44 Front Driver side drop AMC 20 Rear
    ? 109 in. Wheelbase
    ? 5975/6200 Lbs GVWR
    ? Manufactured in Toledo Ohio



    Comment

    • rentalrider
      232 I6
      • Mar 23, 2010
      • 61

      #3
      Nor sure if I'd recommend my way or not but it worked for me. Two wires from motor. Changing polarity makes it go up or down. I bypassed evrerything and installed a three way switch in dash. Wired them so middle position is no continuity (off) up is one way (speaking of + -) and down is the opposite polarity. I removed stock switches altogether. Tired of screwing with them. Used new, fresh wire in split lume run through cab. Hope this helps.

      Comment

      • p@55w0rd
        232 I6
        • Mar 09, 2010
        • 201

        #4
        Wiring diagrams start around page 10



        Good luck!
        Project: 1979 Wagoneer 360, Turbo 400, Q-Track, and Dana 44's
        Lovingly refereed to as the "The Wagon"...
        Daily Driver: 2008 Jeep Commander Rocky Mountain Edition 4.7L, Q-Trac II
        http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll58/jeepxk/DSC08388.jpg

        Comment

        • Rich88
          AMC 4 OH! 1
          • Nov 20, 2008
          • 4182

          #5
          Can't help with your specific question at the moment, but I have some advice regarding wiring in general based on your pictures.

          Do yourself (or the next owner) a favor: When using crimp connectors like that outside the vehicle I always put some heat shrink up one of the wires first. After crimping I slather a bit of silicone in the ends of the crimp to seal it. Then I slide the heat shrink over the splice & shrink it down.

          It doesn't take long for water (and/or salt) to start eating away at the wire. The resistance at the crimp goes up and the voltage goes down at the other end and the light dims or the motor is slowed.
          Jeepasaurus (Wagonus Grandi quadropedus)
          88 GW 360-.030 over/2150/727/229/Posi, e-pump, AC (broke), tow package, Monroe Air Shocks, TFI, CTO-Free, AIR-free, oil & tranny coolers, dried knuckle blood all over, GM 350 TBI in a box, waiting...
          "You're an FSJ'r when the parts guys memorize your name, phone & credit card#."

          Comment

          • Dr. Marneaus
            360 AMC
            • Jun 16, 2010
            • 2888

            #6
            You need some form of dual position momentary switch, if you dont mind going with something aftermarket.

            Otherwise, check the classifieds for someone parting out a rig, and grab their switches.

            I got two of them from a 1983 rig a guy I knew was parting, I installed one and saved one for a rainy day.
            Originally posted by FSJunkie
            Dr. Marneaus is now officially my idol.
            The Mag - The Wag

            The Beast Build Thread:Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread
            1973 Wagoneer - 1987 360 w/ factory 4bbl - TH400 - D20 - D30/D44

            Comment

            • Tripwire
              AMC 4 OH! 1
              • Jul 30, 2000
              • 4656

              #7
              i can help you out with a wiring harness and a dash switch - they are of a later rig but should help out tremendously...even have a safety switch as well


              PM me if interested
              Abort? Retry? Ignore? >

              86 GrandWag. Howell fuel Injected 360. MSD Ignition + Dizzy. 727/229 swap BJ's 2" Lift and 31's

              88 Wrangler 4.2, Howell TBI and MSD - Borla Headers w/ Cat-back + winch and 31's AND a M416 trailer (-:

              Comment

              • Mr.Wagoneer
                232 I6
                • Jul 26, 2010
                • 244

                #8
                Originally posted by Rich88
                Do yourself (or the next owner) a favor: When using crimp connectors like that outside the vehicle I always put some heat shrink up one of the wires first. After crimping I slather a bit of silicone in the ends of the crimp to seal it. Then I slide the heat shrink over the splice & shrink it down.

                It doesn't take long for water (and/or salt) to start eating away at the wire. The resistance at the crimp goes up and the voltage goes down at the other end and the light dims or the motor is slowed.
                Yeah don't worry, I always use shrink wrap on my wire connections, This was a temperary set up to evaluate the TG motor and switch condition
                Year: 1983
                Make: AMC/Jeep
                Model: Wagoneer
                Trim: Limited
                ? AMC 360 5.9 Liter
                ? MotorCraft 2150 2 BBL Carb
                ? TF-727 3 Speed Automatic
                ? NP-229 Select-Trac Full/Part time transfer case
                ? Dana 44 Front Driver side drop AMC 20 Rear
                ? 109 in. Wheelbase
                ? 5975/6200 Lbs GVWR
                ? Manufactured in Toledo Ohio



                Comment

                • Mr.Wagoneer
                  232 I6
                  • Jul 26, 2010
                  • 244

                  #9
                  Originally posted by p@55w0rd
                  Wiring diagrams start around page 10



                  Good luck!
                  Life Saver!
                  Year: 1983
                  Make: AMC/Jeep
                  Model: Wagoneer
                  Trim: Limited
                  ? AMC 360 5.9 Liter
                  ? MotorCraft 2150 2 BBL Carb
                  ? TF-727 3 Speed Automatic
                  ? NP-229 Select-Trac Full/Part time transfer case
                  ? Dana 44 Front Driver side drop AMC 20 Rear
                  ? 109 in. Wheelbase
                  ? 5975/6200 Lbs GVWR
                  ? Manufactured in Toledo Ohio



                  Comment

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