Another 401 Build thread

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  • FSJ Guy
    • Mar 20, 2005
    • 10061

    Another 401 Build thread

    It's sort of already in progress, but better late than never.

    I have an unmolested block at the machine shop getting magnafluxed and cleaned up. My heads are also being rebuilt with some mild port work.

    I will reuse the timing cover from my (running) 360, as well as the cam/distributor gears, distributor and Performer intake that are also on the 360. Depending on when my $$ runs out, I may or may not get the new Edelbrock shorty headers.

    I didn't plan it like this, but today, boxes from both BJ's Offroad and Summit Racing showed up at my door!


    A- oil pump pickup (original one was trashed in the junkyard)

    B- Oil fill tube

    C- oil pump midplate

    D- Dipstick tube

    E- Dipstick tube bracket

    F- Fuel pump blockoff plate

    G- Oil pan stud kit

    Everything else should be fairly obvious.

    Not pictured is the AMC 360 flexplate that will be used to hopefully retain the Mitusbishi starter on my 88 FSJ. Yes, the entire rotating assembly will be balanced, including the non-stock flexplate.

    Cast high-compression pistons will be coming from Mad Dog Racing once I find out what the overbore will be. Mad Dog Racing said the pistons will give me a 9.8:1 compression ratio. I might end up having to run midgrade gasoline. Hopefully with the ability to adjust timing (GM TBI system), I can get away with regular grade gasoline.

    At that compression ratio, the Lunati camshaft really compares nicely against the Performer Plus, but it's over $100 more expensive than the Edelbrock. I hope I don't miss it, but even if it *is* an issue, I can pop the timing chain cover off and replace it if it becomes a big deal. I'm not expecting it to be a problem, however.
    Ethan Brady
    1987 Grand Wagoneer, slightly longer than stock.

    www.bigscaryjeep.com

    Don't mess with me. I once killed a living hinge.
  • lost1
    350 Buick
    • Sep 21, 2008
    • 908

    #2
    Subscribed.
    Originally posted by Locked and Loaded
    Jeeps don't get stuck. People do.
    <══════════════════════════════>
    Let the good times roll!
    '83 Wagoneer«» 401/TF727/3:31 AMC20

    Comment

    • Ristow
      • Jan 20, 2006
      • 17292

      #3
      good choice on the cam.
      Originally posted by Hankrod
      Ristows right.................again,


      Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
      ... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


      Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
      I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!

      It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...

      Comment

      • Gambler68
        Rabble Rouser
        • Feb 29, 2004
        • 14083

        #4
        Dang Ethan, I thought you were done and maybe, just maybe we'd see ya a gathering! Now it's gana be another 5 years! Looks like quite the pile of goodies there! Nice!
        1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
        1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
        The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
        Hunter S. Thompson .

        Comment

        • mark j
          327 Rambler
          • Jun 07, 2002
          • 683

          #5
          You'll love the oil pan stud kit. I just put one on mine and it made installing the oil pan with the engine in the jeep MUCH easier. I have the Canton high capacity pan which blocks access to the torque converter bolts so this has to go on last. With it on there is no way to get the torque converter bolts in or out. Not a problem with this kit. With the studs in place holding the gasket in proper position was a cinch. This kit is really well done. I did not know that the studs have allen heads to allow you to set the depth. The 1/4" studs I placed until they bottomed out. However, the 5/16" studs especially at the rear would go in too far if you did not have a way to back them out once the pan is in place and you tighten down the nuts. When tightening down the nuts the studs tended to want to turn so I got the nuts started, then backed the studs out to the right length and tightened the nuts allowing the nut/stud combo to go together to the right length until snug.
          72 wagoneer- My first FSJ
          89 G-wag- built 401
          09 Rubicon

          Comment

          • FSJ Guy
            • Mar 20, 2005
            • 10061

            #6
            Good to know about the stud kit. I haven't even opened it. If I open it before I need it, I'll end up losing pieces.

            I figured for the price, it was worth it even if it ended up being a piece of crap, but it sounds like it is rather well thought out!

            I'm hoping to have this installed in a month or two, but as the summer weekend fill up with other activities, it'll probably end up being September or November.
            Ethan Brady
            1987 Grand Wagoneer, slightly longer than stock.

            www.bigscaryjeep.com

            Don't mess with me. I once killed a living hinge.

            Comment

            • Ristow
              • Jan 20, 2006
              • 17292

              #7
              I will reuse the timing cover from my (running) 360, as well as the cam/distributor gears

              that's how i do it too. i'll take decent stock parts over chinese junk.

              you can prep the pump and housing easily before you put it back together. both endplay,and the input/output holes.
              Originally posted by Hankrod
              Ristows right.................again,


              Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
              ... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


              Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
              I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!

              It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...

              Comment

              • dlowrance
                304 AMC
                • Feb 16, 2007
                • 1531

                #8
                I'm with Ristow...snag good OE parts if in good condition...beats the tar out of some of the low quality stuff we're forced to buy these days...I'm about to swap out 360's into the truck...gonna do the exact same thing....
                Dale

                79 WT Cherokee
                401
                TH400
                D20 Twin Stick
                Unnamed as of yet....

                Comment

                • FSJ Guy
                  • Mar 20, 2005
                  • 10061

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Ristow
                  that's how i do it too. i'll take decent stock parts over chinese junk.

                  you can prep the pump and housing easily before you put it back together. both endplay,and the input/output holes.
                  It's really because I don't want to shell out $250 for a new timing cover.

                  Also, the roll pin is a PITA to remove from the distributor. And I have mine modified for my GM TBI timing control, too. So, the gears will be swapped to keep everything Kosher.
                  Ethan Brady
                  1987 Grand Wagoneer, slightly longer than stock.

                  www.bigscaryjeep.com

                  Don't mess with me. I once killed a living hinge.

                  Comment

                  • FSJ Guy
                    • Mar 20, 2005
                    • 10061

                    #10
                    Do you guys reuse your push rods????

                    Or should I spring for the extra $30 and get new ones? (That's half a tank of gas, these days! LOL!)
                    Ethan Brady
                    1987 Grand Wagoneer, slightly longer than stock.

                    www.bigscaryjeep.com

                    Don't mess with me. I once killed a living hinge.

                    Comment

                    • JeepMods
                      327 Rambler
                      • Jul 08, 2009
                      • 559

                      #11
                      Originally posted by FSJ Guy
                      Do you guys reuse your push rods????

                      Or should I spring for the extra $30 and get new ones? (That's half a tank of gas, these days! LOL!)
                      Anytime I upgrade cams.. even if it's only a hair bigger than stock I upgrade pushrods... I've had 3 "L" shaped stock pushrods and 2 more with the tips broke off (all on my old 304)... So now I use chromoly one piece pushrods... I know they won't get messed up and if they do well, then I know I have other problems...

                      Comment

                      • mike gw
                        232 I6
                        • Nov 19, 2005
                        • 64

                        #12
                        I got new pushrods, more due to laziness. The old ones had a ton of hard miles from the PO, and were very varnished. I kept them for spares, but each one would probably take an hour to clean, and they are not that expensive when put into the context of a engine build!

                        The best thing I did with my rebuild is bulltear's cam bearings with smaller oil holes to increase oil pressure. They work good, and I have not had any oil pressure problems yet.. (knock on wood)...
                        1989 Grand wagoneer
                        Upgrades: TBI(with ebl ecm), TFI, CS144, 33 gallon bronco tank, 6" BJ's lift, 33" tires, s10 steering box, taurus electric fan,
                        AMC360 bored .040 over, light porting on heads, balanced, Summit K8600 cam. Bulltear increased pressure cam bearings, completed (May, 2010)
                        Custom dash and center console with 9 VDO gauges.

                        Comment

                        • FSJ Guy
                          • Mar 20, 2005
                          • 10061

                          #13
                          Originally posted by mike gw
                          ...and they are not that expensive when put into the context of a engine build!
                          That's what I thought, too. But $30 here and $30 there adds up REALLY fast.

                          I should know by next week how much they have to bore the block and then can order pistons. After that's done and I get everything back from the machine shop, I'll have no more excuses for not putting it together.
                          Ethan Brady
                          1987 Grand Wagoneer, slightly longer than stock.

                          www.bigscaryjeep.com

                          Don't mess with me. I once killed a living hinge.

                          Comment

                          • Woodchomper
                            350 Buick
                            • Dec 17, 2002
                            • 923

                            #14
                            Ethan - I've been rebuilding my 401 for about 6 months now. Like I said in the other post, I should be getting my parts back from the machine shop in the next week or so. Anyway, I thought I'd list some parts (and suppliers) I picked up along the way. Maybe this info might be useful to you or others that are rebuilding their engines.

                            From http://www.autobarn.com:
                            ROL Head Gasket - #ROLHG31190HT @20.95 Each x2
                            GMB High Flow water pump - #GMB110-1040P @49.99

                            From http://www.racerswholesale.com:
                            SA Gear double roller timing chain - #78118 @41.99

                            From http://www.rockauto.com:
                            1991 360 Flexplate - #ATP Z221 @35.79
                            Thermostat housing - #84801 @5.02
                            Distributor reluctor - #LX206 @4.02
                            Distributor pickup - #LX204 @17.49

                            From http://www.jcwhitney.com:
                            Valley Pan gasket - #377371 @19.99
                            Powerforce Damper - #101652 @78.39

                            From http://allensfasteners.com:
                            ARP Rod Bolts AMC 401 - #ARP114-6002 @61.05
                            ARP AMC 12 pt. SS intake manifold bolts - #ARP-414-2101 @23.99
                            ARP 7/16 Rocker Arm Stud Kit - #ARP-135-7101 @31.89

                            I also bought a ton of parts form Summit Racing and Bulltear. The parts listed above were generally the result of looking for the best price I could find for the parts I needed. I had no shipping issues with any of the vendors listed.
                            1991 GW 401 /727TF/NP229 /4" Skyjacker /EBL TBI /CS-144
                            1981 J10 401 /727TF/NP208 /6" Superlift /CS-144

                            Comment

                            • Woodchomper
                              350 Buick
                              • Dec 17, 2002
                              • 923

                              #15
                              Ethan - Any updates? I'm curious to know how much the block needs to be bored out.


                              Rich B.
                              1991 GW 401 /727TF/NP229 /4" Skyjacker /EBL TBI /CS-144
                              1981 J10 401 /727TF/NP208 /6" Superlift /CS-144

                              Comment

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