2009 GEP 6.5 swap
Well after my 406 stroker build my J10 is going a different route... Dropping in a military take out in place of my 406... I don't want this to become a debate on which diesel is best, but this is by far the cheapest and easiest swap. I looked at a cummins swap and total cost was well over $6000 for either the 4bt or 6bt. They aren't cheap anymore...
Since I already had a bellhousing from a SBC to my '95 NV4500, the total cost to "bolt the motor in" was a mere $110 for motor mounts... Granted that's to just bolt it in, not drivable... Here is a list of parts I needed to buy to convert the 24v system to 12v and also make it drivable. And it will be staying NA for a while.
2009 complete GEP 6.5 diesel with 3100 miles, without alt or starter...$2000
LUK solid flywheel............$110
ACDelco clutch kit............$75 p/n:381409
Fuel manager..................$113 (with filter and sensors)
Advance adapter mounts..$110
DB2 IP 12v solenoid........$58
ACDelco 60G gp's x8.......$68
That puts me at $2771.00
I also have to change my 8k gas tach to a 4K diesel tach to use 0.5v signal from a CPS... So another $150 for tach...
Will use my ford starter relay for the glow plug relay with a manual toggle and make my own glow plug harness...
I will get pics going as soon as fastenal has the motor ready for pickup the end of his week or early next week...
Well it has been almost 2 years since I swapped in the NA 6.5. Long story short, I picked up the F code upper and lower intake manifold, the oil feed and return lines, both exhaust manifolds and a new crossover pipe for $300 in August 2016 along with an HX35 (a lot of people recommended it on various forums) and did a 4" strait exhaust from the turbo all the way back. I adjusted the fuel screw so it barely touches 17-18 psi boost at 2400 rpm at WOT and it rarely smokes (only if RPM's are lower than 1250-1300 and I'm laying on the gas). It really, really woke it up.
In September, My family and I moved from NM to WA and I weighed in at 14,000 lbs and it performed admirably despite it had the military NA coolant crossover and no fan shroud and it still maintained 13-14 mpg's. It now has a fiberglass fan shroud (that I made) and the bypass blocking Tstat crossover from the 1992-1995 6.5TD's.
This summer, I am planning the next 'upgrade' which will eliminate that factory super restrictive passenger side manifold and either do 1 of 2 things. I will either try and fit the van/centermount turbo log manifolds and move my turbo to be similar to a center mount but not be an actual centermount, Or 2, use the shops waterjet and create my own exhaust flanges and use 1.625" tube and run them (all 8) behind the motor into a single 4x2 row collector to either a T3 or T4 flange... Option 2 is a lot more fab but if i cant get the factory manifolds to fit, then i will have to it that way. In either case, the restrictive exhaust manifolds will be gone and it will breathe easier... Which leads to my second 'upgrade'... Ditching the HX35 for an HE351.... Based on the boost profiles, its quite a bit more efficient and its a single scroll vs twin scroll. My HX35 is 54/58/12 and the HE351 is 60/60/9 so the the compressor and turbines are larger, but the turbine housing is smaller... I will keep you updated as I progress through this project...
I am even considering creating a 7L stroker, but the $9-10k is way out of budget right now... If your curious, I would use a P400 block/girdle/oil pan ($3000), International 6.9 0.060" over pistons (drop in, $800), rebushed rods ($150 shop quote), and a custom billet crank from Scat with a 4.15" stroke ($5000 at least quote from Scat). It would also drop the compression down to 18.6:1 making it perfect for 30lbs of boost.... That would be a really mean motor.....
1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, 14b front kingpins, 14b rear, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's
Last edited by BA_051 : 02-26-2018 at 12:16 AM.