Custom Relay'd headlight harnesses. 217 sold so far.

[SNO*MAN]

FYI for Oregon users

In regards to auxilary or fog lights in Oregon:
The way I read it, the factory auxilary driving lights are wired backwards - except that they can be turned off completely via a switch....so they are still legal.

http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/TS/docs/VehEq/Revised2fog_lights.pdf

According to Oregon law, fog and/or auxiliary lights must be used like the high beam headlight system of your car. They must be turned off within 500 feet of approaching an oncoming vehicle and 350 feet when following another vehicle. The color of fog and/or auxiliary lights is also regulated. Fog lights may be either white or amber (yellow). Rules prohibit other colors such as blue.

SO, for me I want mine wired so they can be on with the high beams.

[serehill]

It will be safe

I always thought the stock configuration was backwards. I prefer the driving lights on with the high beams myself. Since it is lifted, It appears that most people get blinded more by the driving lights and the low beams over the high beams alone. Adjustment wont fix that.
I need it to be easy to install though. An electrical issue burnt my last jeep to the ground before I got it fully insured. So electrical is a big concern of mine.

The sytem is gong to come completely protected that's one of the parts I'm waiting on is a fuse housing. It will be protected by a 30 amp fuse that will be connected right at the battery as stated in the original discription it will be pretty elementary with full support. The circuit will be completely fuse protected from as close to the source as the fuse can be. It will use 30amp gm type fuses. The realys & housings will be american made. The relays will also have a plug in harnes & are a standard buy anywhere replacements to ensure they are servicable. I could solder them to the relays but that would make trouble shooting a PITA. As the first couple of people will see it is a well thought out protected servicable system. LOL now I wishing I had the parts.
These sytems are based of of the same system & controls GM is using in their trucks. I have no problem telling you I will have $41.00 just in unassembeld parts. Could I build it cheaper well NO!!!!

Reading about the laws I haven't found any that has restrictions with respect to beam connections. But it can easily be made to operate the beams in any combinaton. you can actually build the 4 headlight system with all 4 lamp having hi & lo beams

[serehill]

I may do some post

I'd be interested, also. Could you post pics of the installation?

Once I built a couple of them I can do a mock up.

[serehill]

Tigger they will work on all years

Sounds advantageous. What years would this work for? My '70 and '74 J-trucks only have 37 amp alternators. Will these work on them? I hope so!



Curiosity ...

I have been trying to figure out how to splice the wiring from an 80's alternator into them so I'd have a 65 amp alternator that only costs $40 new from my local parts house VS the freakin' $85 for an alternator and external regulator. Do you know anything about alternator wiring? I'd be up for a "paint by numbers" tech write up to make it happen on my trucks. For sure the headlight upgrade would not be an issue then. TIA!

CJ Jeepsters FSJ Tons of other if it has the square or 7" round headlight this will work. It will work for standard Halogen Xenon & HID Lamps.

[serehill]

All FSJ's CJ's Jeepsters.

I'd be interested, also. Could you post pics of the installation?

Anything with a square or 7" round headlights all Chevies ford dodges.
Any lamp with an H4 /9003 type socket

[SNO*MAN]

Will the wiring be good for HID lighting?

[mathman]

In post #19:

CJ Jeepsters FSJ Tons of other if it has the square or 7" round headlight this will work. it will work for standard Halogen Xenon & HID Lamps.

[j10jim]

I'm down for 1

[78J-10]

I would deff be down for one. my lights need help and i plan on upgrading here soon anyway.

[serehill]

Update

I have recieved most of the parts & rejected one. It's appears the rest of the parts will be in this week if shipping from the holidays.

I built a prototype last night & this works fine for the quad socket modifications,driving light modifications. It appears just for the standard conversion this will take 90+% of the load off of the light switch. Also as stated they're will not be any difference in the operation of the dimmer or light swicth it will operate as it is suppose to. The light switch I used was one out of a 72 model. I intitailly connected the system without the bypass system & the switch was indeed hot. After connecting the bypass the switch went to room temperature. I did simulate the tailight load in the test. Taillight load went from 13 amps worst case to a little lass than 4 amps. the tungsten headlight load is a real intense load. the load reduction does indeed do what it is supposed to do. I have a jeepster commando project that i will be running a full blown istall & test Saturday. Because of my travel schedul my completion of the first ones will still be th ewek of the 23rd.
These systems far surpass the units you can buy for HID conversions today. There's also no mofifications to this, there are to HIDs t makethem do this. The This is one of the reasons I came up with this idea. I had 3 problems with mine bought bypass system. The wires were over heating which were #16. The relay burned up & I found ther is no servicable relay replacements without buying another harness. So I decideed to replace it with a built system & when I started to remove it I found the light sockets were deformed from heat. This system had only been on the truck for 5 weeks. One more advantage to my system, I will utilize 2 relays. This will be primarily to keep heat load down & balance power distibution. Eliminates HID flucyuation also. The 2 relay system offers a distinct advantage, if something were to happen to one relay you would only lose one light. All of the systems I've looked into deploy a single relay for HIDs. If that relay quits you have no lights. So my relays are capable of carrying the entire load. The hid relays which were rated 40 amps could not carry 10. Since there is no quality requirments on these & no one ensure the specs are correct they sell them. I was wondering why when you go into these customizing shops that do HID conversions you'll see ballast & wiring harnesses laying everywhere. The service tech there a guy I've known for years told me that these harnesses were great because the failure of those & cheap ballest has become a great resource for him.
Response for questions. is I am putting great thought into making this system a simple install. The drivers are a good system that trully removes all headlighting load which is 90% of your headlight swithes load. Results are the load removal & improved lighting, better electrical distribution utilizing one of the primary physics of electricty. That is being the least path of resistance. Basically this is done by wirng the lighting from the battey straight to the headlights via the relay system. Instead of the power running from the battery to the fuse block from the fuse block to the headlight switch, from the switch to the dimmer & then to the lights.

Once these are complete I will set up some kind of install instuctions probably with a few pictures. I wil develop that after the full blown mock up Saturday.

The install/difficulty level on this on a 1 to 10 level should be an 3 or less. 1 being the easiest 10 being the hardest.

[spankyway]

I am interested in one but please forgive my ignorance. I will be installing it in an 84 GW. Would I need to buy new or different headlamps/bulbs or will it work with the sealed beams? I am just trying to figure the total cost of this upgrade. I am not real good with automotive electricals so this is very daunting to me and I want to make sure I know what I'm getting into before I start.

[serehill]

No worries that is what the kit is for

I am interested in one but please forgive my ignorance. I will be installing it in an 84 GW. Would I need to buy new or different headlamps/bulbs or will it work with the sealed beams? I am just trying to figure the total cost of this upgrade. I am not real good with automotive electricals so this is very daunting to me and I want to make sure I know what I'm getting into before I start.

It will work with any bulb.

[serehill]

Done develpoment complete here's some pics

OK these sat on the lab burning for 2 days. Notice the yellow sockets are porcelain! These are twice as heavy as they have to be. The relays are good for 40 amps each! That's 80 amps total. They are fused for 30 amps. This is all top quality easy to find parts. The fuse holder can be mounted also.


Here's the relays & sockets.



Ok here's the mock up left side. What you're looking at is the main location of the system. You will mount the relays behind the left headlight using a self taping screw. You see the black & yellow light sockets. The black socket connects to the original headlight socket. The yellow socket connects to your headlight. You will mount the relays using self tapping screws. Connect the black wire on the yellow socket to ground via the terminal bottom of picture the little ring, with self tapping screws.


Right side: Run the (yellow) socket from the left side to the right headlight assembly. Take the light loose from the original socket Tape the original socket up & plug your headlight it into the yellow one. Connect the black to ground with the self tapping screw the same as the left side. Remember there are existing ground locations you cab attach these to.



Last but not least you will run this wire with fuse holder from the relays behind the headlight to the stater solenoid & connect it to the battery side of the starter solenoid. Put your head lights back in & you're done. The relays will now control power to your lights the headlights & dimmers will work just as they are suppose to. I installed this in my Commando yesterday no problems. This can be modified as stated for 4 lights or driving lights etc.


I will build about 10 of these this week. If you're on the list I will contact you they will be ready to ship this comming weekend. Let me know if you have any questions there is no doubt this is the easiest way to do this & it is made out of the best parts. these are by far more heavy duty than anything offered for the hardwire bypass that doesn't bypass the dimmers. Paypal or money order will work. the only thing you should beed are wire ties. Besides a few hand tools.

[trailscape]

Looks good.. Might have to go this route while I'm in the midst of rewiring everything.

[serehill]

let me know I was driven by a couple of issues that these things correct.

I'll build 30 That's what I bought parts for. The intent is to bypass the light circuit with the load so you can upgrade your light & make even the stock light brighter. A couple of menebers brought t to my attention that fols have cought their rigs on fire because of eadlight switch & dimer isses. this will fix that. The bulbs being demoed are Sylvania Holgens.