DIY steel brake line replacement

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  • 44BZ
    304 AMC
    • Dec 10, 2009
    • 1567

    DIY steel brake line replacement

    It seems I have so many Jeep irons in the fire right now I'm in the process of overhauling the braking system; rears are done. I managed to snap the steel line at the passenger rear wheel cylinder, so the 12" or so of line from the tee to the cylinder needs replaced. I'm leaning toward replacing all the hard lines at this point, but have some questions.

    1) What size are the stock lines? I'm looking at a kit from Eastwood that includes 25' of steel line and I think 16 fittings consisting of long and short lengths, for $17.99. Seems like a good deal.

    2) Bare steel or coated? Looks like brake lines come in bare steel or coated with something (AVS maybe? I can't remember now) to prevent corrosion. Are bare steel lines adequate or is it worth the extra money to get the coated variety? I don't have to worry too much about rust in Oregon...

    I think that's all for now. Never run brake lines before so I'll have to get familiar with a bender and flaring tool. Still collecting parts at this stage
    Zack - 68 J2000, AMC 327, 4bbl intake, dual exhaust, Pertronix upgrade, Holley 600cfm, T18, dana 20 (twin sticked), 3" body lift w/ 35x12.50 MTRs ~ running AND driving!
  • joe
    • Apr 28, 2000
    • 22392

    #2
    If you're not running on salt water beaches uncoated are fine in OR. Unless you're bathing your rig in salt water or rock salted roads your steel lines are more prone to rust/corrode on the inside from not changing your brake fluid often enough.
    joe
    "Don't mind me. I'm just here for the alibi"

    Comment

    • austinaubinoe
      360 AMC
      • Aug 08, 2010
      • 2994

      #3
      im in the process redoing all the hard line on my 55 pickup. I just sprayed them all with a can of rust proof semi gloss black.
      Austin

      1991 Hunter Green Grand Wagoneer
      5.9 2bbl-727-NP229-TFI-30x9.5 Firestone M/T's-Brush Guard-tire mount
      SOON: 4350 and cast iron intake

      Others:
      -1994 Baby Grand
      -2000 XJ cherokee on Tons
      -1953 REO M35A2 6x6
      -1955 Willys Pickup



      Originally posted by rustywagoneers_com
      i am not an addict, i can stop anytime.
      i dont have a problem, you people have the problem.

      Comment

      • tgreese
        • May 29, 2003
        • 11682

        #4
        Most factory lines are 3/16".

        I don't think there's such a thing as bare steel lines. I believe you can get plated lines (which look like bare steel) or coated, which have a olive drab plastic coating - though I suspect that's on top of plated tubing.

        Supposedly the best line to use today is Cunifer (copper-nickel-iron alloy), which is easy to bend, does not corrode, and makes nice flares. More expensive though. I'd avoid stainless, because it's hard to work with.

        For patch-ups, I try to find pre-made lines about the right length and bend them to shape. You can join the available lengths with unions and make up almost any length you need.
        Tim Reese
        Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
        Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
        Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
        GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
        ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

        Comment

        • 44BZ
          304 AMC
          • Dec 10, 2009
          • 1567

          #5
          Originally posted by tgreese
          Most factory lines are 3/16".

          I don't think there's such a thing as bare steel lines. I believe you can get plated lines (which look like bare steel) or coated, which have a olive drab plastic coating - though I suspect that's on top of plated tubing.

          Supposedly the best line to use today is Cunifer (copper-nickel-iron alloy), which is easy to bend, does not corrode, and makes nice flares. More expensive though. I'd avoid stainless, because it's hard to work with.

          For patch-ups, I try to find pre-made lines about the right length and bend them to shape. You can join the available lengths with unions and make up almost any length you need.
          Thanks for clarification on the line size, I think the kit I was looking at is 3/16". You're probably right with the plated vs coated, I was trying to recall from memory what I had read about the different products. What should I expect to pay? $17.99 surprised me as I was expecting to pay quite a bit more for a roll of tubing, but that may be for stainless. Does stainless not bend as well?
          Zack - 68 J2000, AMC 327, 4bbl intake, dual exhaust, Pertronix upgrade, Holley 600cfm, T18, dana 20 (twin sticked), 3" body lift w/ 35x12.50 MTRs ~ running AND driving!

          Comment

          • tgreese
            • May 29, 2003
            • 11682

            #6
            Stainless is harder than mild steel, which makes bending and flaring harder.

            Steel tubing is pretty cheap. Even the pre-flared sticks with fittings on both ends that you get at the parts store are inexpensive.

            Check out Cunifer if you want to make custom lines. http://www.fedhillusa.com/
            Tim Reese
            Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
            Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
            Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
            GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
            ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

            Comment

            • JERSEY JOE
              304 AMC
              • Jan 15, 2004
              • 1588

              #7
              brake lines

              Also contact Classic Tube and buy the rock gurad which is a spring outer coating. it's cheap and really makes the lines look OEM. It's like 10 cents a foot
              1977 CJ 7 360 T-18 IHC D300 FARM TRUCK NY
              1985 CJ 7 AMC 401, CLARK 285SV 5 SPEED, DANA 60, DANA 44, RUBICON 4.5 LIFT. 37 KRAWLERS
              1987 J-20 401 90% COMPLETED.
              1985 J-20 360 6 inch lift, 37's plow truck
              1986 J-20 360 stock well rusted plow truck
              1970 AMX CURRENT PROJECT

              Comment

              • Thomas792
                327 Rambler
                • Sep 16, 2007
                • 633

                #8
                Going through the same process with the rear lines for my J10 axle going into my GW. The lengths I measured are 18" for the drivers side and 57" for the passenger side. I'm not 100% sure of the exact shape so I gave it a little extra.

                Tried yesterday to bend the lines for the driver's side. What a pain to get everything to line up. I guess slightly shorter, say 16", might have been better.

                Lines are in fact 3/16 as I had a small portion of the original line to work with.

                BTW I got my lines from NAPA as they seemed to have the greatest selection.
                1974 J10 (401, Th400, Q-Trac, D44s, 28" tires)
                Mrs Tickity - 1988 GW (360, 727, 229, D44s, 32" tires)

                Comment

                • MtnYJ
                  232 I6
                  • Jun 12, 2006
                  • 170

                  #9
                  Originally posted by 44BZ
                  It seems I have so many Jeep irons in the fire right now I'm in the process of overhauling the braking system; rears are done. I managed to snap the steel line at the passenger rear wheel cylinder, so the 12" or so of line from the tee to the cylinder needs replaced. I'm leaning toward replacing all the hard lines at this point, but have some questions.

                  1) What size are the stock lines? I'm looking at a kit from Eastwood that includes 25' of steel line and I think 16 fittings consisting of long and short lengths, for $17.99. Seems like a good deal.

                  2) Bare steel or coated? Looks like brake lines come in bare steel or coated with something (AVS maybe? I can't remember now) to prevent corrosion. Are bare steel lines adequate or is it worth the extra money to get the coated variety? I don't have to worry too much about rust in Oregon...

                  I think that's all for now. Never run brake lines before so I'll have to get familiar with a bender and flaring tool. Still collecting parts at this stage
                  Might as well replace all the hard lines and get it over with. We started down the "just replace the bad ones" road, then quickly realized they were all in about the same poor condition.

                  Once you get the hang of the flaring tool it's not to bad. AutoZone or similar store will rent you the flaring tool, but it's hit and miss if it'll be a good one. It's really frustrating trying to learn a new task and not knowing if errors in your work are operator error or the tool.

                  I fought with the rental units for a few years, then broke down and bought a Craftsman flaring tool. It made a huge difference. When I tighten down the Craftsman tool I don't feel like I'm going to break it!

                  A couple pieces of advice, I recommend using a flat file to remove the coating from the end of the tube where it'll clamp in the flaring tool. It'll be less likely to slide through the tool as you crank down on it to form the flare...

                  It's also worked out well for me to pay real close attention to the end of the tube after you cut it, making sure it's cut square, slightly beveled and burr-free.

                  Hope this helps, if you already knew this stuff sorry for the repeat!
                  Tim & Sarah

                  '84 CJ-7, AMC 401
                  '76 J20, T-18, Dana 20, no floors
                  '91 GW, AMC 360, AX-15, NP 208, 178K Mi
                  Rear bumper w/swing-out tire carrier
                  '93 YJ, 4.0L, 5-SP, flipped Dana 300, Dana 44s
                  '14 Ram 3500 4x4 CTD
                  Carolina Full Size Jeep Club President http://www.cfsjc.com

                  Comment

                  • Dens71TA
                    232 I6
                    • Oct 08, 2012
                    • 38

                    #10
                    Just replaced some of brake lines on my '86 Jeep J10 over the weekend. The majority of them are 3/16" but the line that runs from the proportioning valve to the rear axle flex hose is 1/4"

                    You can get brake line with the factory style armor(spring around the line) from Napa or Car Quest.
                    1986 Jeep J10

                    1971 Pontiac Trans Am
                    1982 Pontiac Recaro T/A

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