Shackle Flip

[Thunder Struck]

I have a 75 waggy and I'm planning on doing a shackle flip. Is there anything I should do to the shackle? I heared that sometimes they may flip back, it that true?

Thanks for the help

[shredby4]

Eventually RiverBeast will be along to answer this question... So consider this reply useless...

[River Beast]

On your 75... you have a post mount setup... technically you should move the post forward on the frame about 1.25" to restrict the shackle from folding up the wrong way when you flex and re-compress the suspension....

[shredby4]

See....

[Thunder Struck]

Ok great I was planning on changing the rear rear spring hangers to a 76+, so I may widen my option for lift kits...has this been done?

[FSJ Thing]

RB COME BACK!!!

RiverBeast makes a shackle flipper kit for the later FSJs and I bought one for my last Wag. It's pretty simple and I'm sure you could adapt it to the older post type setup with only a little bit of cutting, drilling, and bolting. Check the link on the bottom of his sig, it takes you to his website and it has a link to his shackle flipper kit (also gives 7" of lift!!!!)

[River Beast]

WHAT!?!?!

If you change over to the box mount setup.... and want to do an SOA conversion up front.... check out my shackle inversion kits ( link in sig)

If you have the fab skills and tools (welder and grinder) you can modify my kit to work perfectly with just a few minor support brackets that you would have to add to the framerails....

Elliot did this to his J truck...

[Thunder Struck]

Yea but doing the SOA is not at the top of my things to try [img]smile.gif[/img] . hahah but if I put the 76 spring hangers on then I can get the 6" Rusty lift! [img]tongue.gif[/img]

[ September 11, 2003, 11:58 AM: Message edited by: TheDustman ]

[River Beast]

true.... go for it... SOA isn't for everyone... I agree with you there.... but it's fun getting it there!!!

[Thunder Struck]

yea I can do it but thats a LOT of work for 1in.

[River Beast]

Maybe it is a bit more work for the SOA... the the amount of flex you lose with 6" springs makes it worth EVERY minute of your time doing the SOA... and that 1" isn't even an issue.

(edit)
let me rephrase that a bit better...

Nothing against bolt-in lifts what so ever... I have one on my wife's W/T....

IT's personal preference... that's what drives and individual to build their 4x4's the way THEY want them...

Just having the knowledge I have gained from this board and personal wrenching.... it really depends on what you want... the look... or the flexy performance.....

[ September 11, 2003, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: River Beast ]

[Thunder Struck]

ok ok...hahah after sitting here pissed off at my self, I thought about it.. and I have to say the SOA is a better idea.(Can't hate me for being lazy [img]smile.gif[/img] ). So if I do the SOA it will give me about 3-4in's right? so how do I level out for the back being 7in.?

[FSJ Thing]

Actually, the SOA does give you 5-7 inches. You have to remember that you measure from the centerline of the axle tube to the middle of the spring inself and them multipy it by 2, that will give you the total lift. It varies with the different types of spring pads and the different thicknesses of the different spring that Jeep used over the years. RBs kit actually does add more than an SOA, but only an inch or so. It helps compensate for the Wag Sag.

[Thunder Struck]

Take a look at my front and rear, rear spring hangers... there both shaft type. I thought the front is the same? I have a pic of a new hanger and both front a rear is boxed. So to use our kit will I need the new hangers?

Front
Rear

[FSJ Thing]

I'm trying to find a mid to late 70s Wag/Chero myself and I've been contemplating the same issue non stop for about three weeks, since I haven't found one I can afford yet. This is how I was going to solve the problem when it arose for me.

Front:
Instead of cutting and welding box mounts from a donor vehicle (I can cut, bend, drill, but welding I suck!), I was going to just get a four inch wide/ 3/16" thick/ 10" long peices of steel, bend them at 90 degree angles so that they would wrap around the little fin sticking out of the top of RBs front mounts, then 90degree angles where it meets the frame and bolt it on. It would be just as thick as the box mounts and do the same job, but seems like less work and it involves no welding! It would also be easier than trying to cut the stupid box mount approx. 3/4" from the bottom to facilitate RBs kit.

Rear:
RBs kit bolts to the frame as well as the box mount. While you would lose the ability to make last minute adjustments as specified in RBs instructions, if you measure right, you shouldn't have to. I'd bolt the mounts to the frame as in his instructions, and then use 1/4" thick, 3" wide angle iron. I wish I could draw on here because it's hard to explain, but since I can't I'll just say I'd cut it and bend it to look like a box that had the roof and one wall missing. The seams would be on the bottom, where it meets RBs mount.

Sorry I can't draw a picture, I'm sure you have absolutely no idea what the heck I'm talking about, but if I find a wag/chero soon enough, I'll take pics for you!