Rear electric window stuck (down)

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  • Rocket Dog
    232 I6
    • Nov 19, 2008
    • 183

    Rear electric window stuck (down)

    OK, so i think my rear window finally gave up the ghost. it 's stuck down in the tailgate. I have already changed the swtich and checked for power and both are good. So I am thinking that the motor finally gave out.

    My questions is how can I get the window to roll up if the motor is dead? I pulled the access panal off and can see a way to either roll up the window or remove the glass.

    Any one have a suggestion? I don't want to brake it by pulling on it.

    thank fells.

    RG
  • Kris
    350 Buick
    • Jul 05, 2000
    • 1042

    #2
    You are sure you've checked everything ?
    Are the wires still connected to the safety switch ?
    You have power at the motor in both up and down positions ? (polarity will reverse)


    Mine sticks down a lot. With mine it is the motor. I have new switches front and rear and have traced all the wiring...

    I have to use the dash switch and quickly go down-up... down-up... (holding up to see if it moves) until it moves up again. Its gotten so bad over the years Ive had to drive with it down occasionally, but it eventually does go up.

    k.
    89 Waggy


    AX-15 swap info threads...
    http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=83102
    http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=97262
    http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=104163
    Theres more but that should get you started

    Originally posted by JeepinPete
    -If it wasn't for bad luck, you wouldn't have any luck at all-

    Comment

    • ChiefEd
      232 I6
      • Sep 15, 2010
      • 46

      #3
      And Eds has a scary "Jump" In it! Makes me feel like the back glass is gonna shoot right out of the bloomin track and shatter on the ground... I second checkin the safety switch. It IS quite possible the motor is fried tho...

      On a side note, Kris. I believe Blackbarts quote is incomplete. Should it not read "Anyone can restore a classic vehicle, but it takes a real man to cut one up and have it end up looking better than the day it was manufactured!"

      ... Jes sayin....
      EDWARD! EVER EDWARD!

      Comment

      • Dirt Wag
        258 I6
        • Jun 24, 2008
        • 358

        #4
        Have you tried having someone give the tailgate a good slap while you hold the switch in the up position ............ yes, I am serious.
        If that works, the brushes in the motor are probably worn out. You can take the motor apart and stretch the brush springs a little - then it may work for a couple more years. Yes it's a PITA, but it doesn't cost anything.
        1985 GW, 360, 727, NP229, D44, AMC20, HEI, SOA/shackle flip 7" lift, Quick Lok locker rear, Aussie Locker front, 4.10 gears, 37 X 13.5 Interco SS-M16's, Warn Premium hubs, Tuff Stuff 12,000 LB winch, rear disc brakes === stripped down street legal off road toy

        Comment

        • Rocket Dog
          232 I6
          • Nov 19, 2008
          • 183

          #5
          thanks for the imput, but one of the wires (white) is dangnaling (disconnect) not sure how to reconect it with the glass down.

          I also jump the safty switch, it's how I seen the cabel danganling.


          any idea on how to lift the window? I can't pull it and as far as I can tell the track wont come off.


          Comment

          • Kris
            350 Buick
            • Jul 05, 2000
            • 1042

            #6
            If I remember right, the safety switch wires are white. You cant get to them with the glass down. You may be able to pull the switch but theres not much slack in the wires.

            Well, if it comes to it the first thing to do is get the glass out.
            It is held onto the regulator arms with push clips. They like to go on but they dont like to come off.

            Ive reused mine every time but if you break or lose one, now you know where to get replacements.

            I do mine with the tailgate open and the window half way up so thy are inline with the access panel, but you may be able to get to them when it is all the way down.

            Best way Ive figured to get them off is using a needlenose plier as a wedge to get under the clip on both sides of the post. They are very stubborn. Give yourself alot of time as you will be working by braille. Once the clips are off, guide the window channel off the posts and then pull the glass out.

            k.
            89 Waggy


            AX-15 swap info threads...
            http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=83102
            http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=97262
            http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=104163
            Theres more but that should get you started

            Originally posted by JeepinPete
            -If it wasn't for bad luck, you wouldn't have any luck at all-

            Comment

            • men in black
              AMC 4 OH! 1
              • Jul 08, 2006
              • 3521

              #7
              I used a 2" holesaw to make a access hole, then use a electrical panel
              waterproof plug. with a little custom bending.



              1990 Grand Wagoneer.. black with sand interior..
              Razor grille, Hella H4 headlights, Piaa driving, LED spider taillights, tinted windows.
              Full Corinthian leather front and rear seats, custom full length center console with cup holders. 100 sf of Rattle Trap on floor.
              Edelbrock intake and 2132 cam, Howell TBI, Ford Distributor Cap, TFI Ignition Coil, Desmogged















              Comment

              • eurowag
                232 I6
                • Feb 19, 2010
                • 175

                #8
                yeah- mine got stuck, one of the window 'clips' fell off into tailgate.
                This allowed the mech to overshoot the safety switch and thus disabled the motor. Pain to sort out . But dirtwags advice is good too- on another occation my window wouldnt raise- all because the tailgate was very slightly open on the side with cutout switch. Took a while to figure out but after opeing door and buping that side back it worked fine. Once your in there its worth cleaning all the old yellow grease off, and re-greasing the whole mech and cable tying the loose cables out the way .The mech can chop them up (like my heated window cable). I also removed handfulls of pine needles and rust that built up and sprayed the lower seam with litium grease to stop rust.
                1990 White Grand Wagoneer 360

                1998 Green XJ Cherokee 4 litre LTD euro spec
                1964 Red Ford Falcon Sprint 289 5 speed
                1961 Red Austin Healey 3000
                1971 Silver Honda 500 Four
                1989 Pontiac Safari 8 seater wagon

                Comment

                • Joe Guilbeau
                  304 AMC
                  • Apr 17, 2002
                  • 2137

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Rocket Dog
                  OK, so i think my rear window finally gave up the ghost. it 's stuck down in the tailgate. I have already changed the swtich and checked for power and both are good. So I am thinking that the motor finally gave out.

                  My questions is how can I get the window to roll up if the motor is dead? I pulled the access panal off and can see a way to either roll up the window or remove the glass.

                  Any one have a suggestion? I don't want to brake it by pulling on it.

                  thank fells.

                  RG
                  I would unplug the wiring harness just under the vehicle at the drivers side up under the tailgate. Take a jumper cable or a battery and strip some heavy duty wires (8-10 AWG) and jump the Tan and Brown wires to the plug going to the tailgate. Connected one way, the window will go up, reverse the connections and the window will go down.

                  Those motors are pretty solid, most likely it is the wiring, especially if the last time that the window operated it seemed normal.
                  Joe Guilbeau<br />1983 Cherokee Laredo WT (SJ-17), 360/229/727/D44/D60 4.10 Gearing, 8-lug hubs, Edelbrock Performer w/EGR Intake, Mallory Unilite Series 47 Photo-Optic Infrared Trigger Vacuum Distributor, Mallory Surge Protector, Mallory Promaster Coil, Holley Pro-Jection TBI 502-Analog, FlowKooler High Output Water Pump, Staggered 4-Core Custom Industrial Radiator, HD Fan Clutch, Dual Electric Fans, CS130 Delco 105-Amp Alternator, Oil Bypass Mods at Rear of Block and Distributor Oiling, Superlift 4\" Suspension, Rancho RS5000\'s, Hi-Tech 31\" Re-Treads, Aero 33 Gal Tank w/Skid Plate, Custom Rear \"Longhorn\" Bumper

                  Comment

                  • Rocket Dog
                    232 I6
                    • Nov 19, 2008
                    • 183

                    #10
                    I can see a white wire that seems to have been connected to the motor somehow got pulled off the motor or just broke off.

                    it' not the safety switich becuase I jumped it and then used a flash liight to look around all I can see is just one wire connected.
                    Also when I took off the panal it laid on the taileget toward the motor.

                    I'm going to try to take the window off the track tomorrow. hope I don't brake the glass

                    Comment

                    • Joe Guilbeau
                      304 AMC
                      • Apr 17, 2002
                      • 2137

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Rocket Dog
                      I can see a white wire that seems to have been connected to the motor somehow got pulled off the motor or just broke off.

                      it' not the safety switich becuase I jumped it and then used a flash liight to look around all I can see is just one wire connected.
                      Also when I took off the panal it laid on the taileget toward the motor.

                      I'm going to try to take the window off the track tomorrow. hope I don't brake the glass

                      A 1977 accessory wiring diagram for the tailgate motor and switch.
                      http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/77/W-09a.gif

                      Here is Mike Baxters how to on tailgates.
                      http://www.ifsja.org/tech/tailgate/tailgate.ht
                      Last edited by Joe Guilbeau; 10-07-2010, 01:41 AM.
                      Joe Guilbeau<br />1983 Cherokee Laredo WT (SJ-17), 360/229/727/D44/D60 4.10 Gearing, 8-lug hubs, Edelbrock Performer w/EGR Intake, Mallory Unilite Series 47 Photo-Optic Infrared Trigger Vacuum Distributor, Mallory Surge Protector, Mallory Promaster Coil, Holley Pro-Jection TBI 502-Analog, FlowKooler High Output Water Pump, Staggered 4-Core Custom Industrial Radiator, HD Fan Clutch, Dual Electric Fans, CS130 Delco 105-Amp Alternator, Oil Bypass Mods at Rear of Block and Distributor Oiling, Superlift 4\" Suspension, Rancho RS5000\'s, Hi-Tech 31\" Re-Treads, Aero 33 Gal Tank w/Skid Plate, Custom Rear \"Longhorn\" Bumper

                      Comment

                      • Rocket Dog
                        232 I6
                        • Nov 19, 2008
                        • 183

                        #12
                        just wanted to let everyone know that I was able to get my window back up but discoverd that the white wire actully broke off the terminal. I was able to rig it back in to keep the window up....

                        btw I took off the motor and that thing was under some real spring pressure. the dam think almost busted my knuckles when the track bar shot up......


                        so I need to fix the connection to the motor which I am sure I will need to buy a new one or get a parts one for the waggster.


                        thanks everyone.

                        Comment

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