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Engine Bay ammeter bypass w/ Pics
Well, I did the Ammeter bypass today...took about 40 minutes...cost about $28 bucks (I went for the Heavy duty 100 amp fuse). I did this with pics just b/c I had a camera available.
Items:
100 amp self tripping/reset (like in your house) waterproof fuse-$19-Autozone (use a 100 Amp fuse for a mostly stock electrical
system with a stock alternator because 50 is not enough and 200 is too
much).
3 feet of 8 gauge wire-$5 Napa (Autozone only sold 10g and higher)
copper connectors-$4 Napa
miscellaneous screwdrivers, wrenches, electrical tape, wire cutters, etc.
Step 0-before you do anything else....Disconnect your battery
Step 1- find your alternator....
Step 2-Disconnect the RED wire from the "batt" post on the back of the
alternator. Don't touch the plastic plug that plugs into the side (back) of the alternator. It has a green/yellow wire typically.
Step 3-insulate the connector well - electrical tape with heat
shrink tubing over that - and zip tie that wire back up the harness to
keep it out of the way. Once again, don't change anything on the plastic plug that plugs into the side (back) of the alternator.
Step 4-find your solenoid (battery connection)
Step 5-Mount your Fuse on the fenderwell near the solenoid. In this case two nuts/screws with washers worked for mounting. I used one existing hole and drilled another.
Step 5-measure the distance form the alternator to the fuse you mounted on the fender well (in this case two nuts/screws with washers worked for mounting) and from the Fuse to the solenoid + battery connection. About 2.5-3 feet (alt to fuse) depending on the route you take and 8-12inches (fuse to Solenoid) This fuse even tells you which connector goes where.
Step 7-construct your wires-crimp leads onto the wire and wrap with elec tape
Step 8-Route the 8 gauge wire from the post on the back of the
alternator (YELLOW ARROW) to the fuse holder on the firewall keeping it clear of the exhaust manifold (GREEN ARROW).
Step 9-Route a wire from the other side of the fuse holder
to the battery side of the starter solenoid (RED ARROW)
The dash will get powerfine with the original alternator output wire disconnected and if it is insulated and protected well you don't need to worry about a short through the ammeter (ie. what we did in step 3)
Now all I need to do is hook a voltmeter up in parallel and we are cooking with gas.
Hope this helps anyone who has an FSJ and started out without a clue
Items:
100 amp self tripping/reset (like in your house) waterproof fuse-$19-Autozone (use a 100 Amp fuse for a mostly stock electrical
system with a stock alternator because 50 is not enough and 200 is too
much).
3 feet of 8 gauge wire-$5 Napa (Autozone only sold 10g and higher)
copper connectors-$4 Napa
miscellaneous screwdrivers, wrenches, electrical tape, wire cutters, etc.
Step 0-before you do anything else....Disconnect your battery
Step 1- find your alternator....
Step 2-Disconnect the RED wire from the "batt" post on the back of the
alternator. Don't touch the plastic plug that plugs into the side (back) of the alternator. It has a green/yellow wire typically.
Step 3-insulate the connector well - electrical tape with heat
shrink tubing over that - and zip tie that wire back up the harness to
keep it out of the way. Once again, don't change anything on the plastic plug that plugs into the side (back) of the alternator.
Step 4-find your solenoid (battery connection)
Step 5-Mount your Fuse on the fenderwell near the solenoid. In this case two nuts/screws with washers worked for mounting. I used one existing hole and drilled another.
Step 5-measure the distance form the alternator to the fuse you mounted on the fender well (in this case two nuts/screws with washers worked for mounting) and from the Fuse to the solenoid + battery connection. About 2.5-3 feet (alt to fuse) depending on the route you take and 8-12inches (fuse to Solenoid) This fuse even tells you which connector goes where.
Step 7-construct your wires-crimp leads onto the wire and wrap with elec tape
Step 8-Route the 8 gauge wire from the post on the back of the
alternator (YELLOW ARROW) to the fuse holder on the firewall keeping it clear of the exhaust manifold (GREEN ARROW).
Step 9-Route a wire from the other side of the fuse holder
to the battery side of the starter solenoid (RED ARROW)
The dash will get powerfine with the original alternator output wire disconnected and if it is insulated and protected well you don't need to worry about a short through the ammeter (ie. what we did in step 3)
Now all I need to do is hook a voltmeter up in parallel and we are cooking with gas.
Hope this helps anyone who has an FSJ and started out without a clue
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