Yet another 6bt swap...

[BA_051]

Well I didnt post pics of the radiator size comparison so here they are...
The new one is well, shiny compared to the old...
Old is 27"x19" the new one is 35"x18.5" but the cap area does go up to 36"... Its a much more massive radiator.

[BA_051]

Now I finally had a few hours earlier today to get the radiator mounts tacked on and test fit. I had to modify the right side a little to make it fit but in the end worked well. I took the mounts off the old radiator, which I used off the original aluminum radiator I installed about 8 years ago (ebay one). I will make a new fiberglass fan shroud using the same method as I did in my 6.5TD swap thread.

There is almost exactly 1.5" between the fan and the radiator as expected. It is mounted in the factory location, obviously just wider. And the fan clutch still has about 1/4" of thread left.

You can also see I changed the thermostat housing to that of the 4bt. I had to because the belt wouldnt clear the stock thermostat housing between the alt and fan pulley. I put a robertshaw highflow tyle tstat in there along with a water pump from a 6.7 cummins. They both bolted right up. I ordered the alternator support bracket and am just waiting for it to arrive. Thermostat housing p/n: 3285102, alternator bracket p/n: 3287096, and the spacer in the bracket is p/n: 3910715.









And the Alternator bracket, spacer, and a bolt... I need to install it soon...

[bluehwy]

Do you have experience with Howe radiators? I

[Mikel]

Do you have experience with Howe radiators? I

I've run a couple for years and never had a problem.

[BA_051]

Well I was able to fire it up for the first time using the key! Since the stock location for the FSS was hitting the massive brake master cylinder I use (1.375" bore), I had to relocate it and had a crazy idea. I originally made a bracket and it bolted on the side of the injection pump but I was having some alignment issues.

So I decided to take the factory bracket, heat it up, and forge it completely flat. I used my 2.5lb hammer and a 1" thick steel plate and hammered it flat, drilled one hole, and bolted it to the front of the injection pump.

I removed the 6mm threaded rod and bought a 1m piece of stainless 6mm threaded rod and made an extended rod for the FSS. It is not completely attached to the IP, but it works great!




I also rewired my entire engine bay, for the 3rd time... This time, I did it right. I used an underhood fuse/relay box from an XJ, I think late 80's, I got for $15 from a Pick n Pull. I removed every pin, opened them all up, soldered new wires to the pins and reassembled everything. Now my main feed line into the cab is fused (100A) High and Low beams are fused (30A ea) and have their own relays, same goes for the starter and FSS pull line.

And I have 2 other relays with 4000micro farad capacitors under them with 2 diodes that control my side marker lights. When parking lights are off, marker+turn flash together. When parking lights are on, marker+parking are on. When parking lights are on, and the turn signal is activated, the relay triggers and charges the capacitor so the relays stays on when the turn signal turns off. This causes the marker light to flash with the turn signal even if the marker lights are on. After the turn signals are deactivated, it takes about 2-2.5 seconds for the relay to discharge the capacitor and click off, turning the marker back on with parking. I can make a quick schematic and upload it later.
Here is the schematic:

Its a super simple circuit. Parking lamps go through 87a so the relay isnt activated with markers on. When the turn signal is activated, it activates the relay and charges the capacitor. When it cycles off, the power on pin 87 is dropped so the light turns off but the capacitor holds the relay activated long enough for the turn signal to cycle back on and charge it back up. After the turn signal is deactivated, the relay will drain the capacitor and click off which will switch back to 87a thus turning the marker circuit back on. The only downside is there has to be a relay for each side. I wired my side markers like this along with the markers on my mirrors as well. The time the relay stays on is completely independent of the load/bulbs used.





Now on to the fuel filter setup. I want to run a 2 mic filter and a separate filter/separator... With the lift pump on the engine, I should not run them under the body and have the pump suck through it. I could have a 10-20 mic filter with the separator under the body and have the 2 mic on the stock filter head, but then I came across this... Cummins 4989116... It may need to have the hole enlarged to fit the m20 filter adapter through it along with a longer adapter, and have the other filter adapter removed and replaced with a different one. It appears to use Filter FF5052 on the long adapter (below stock head) and separator FS1280.
This uses a longer filter adapter thread and a thin nut to bolt it up to the bottom of the filter head. It is $85 from Arkansas Diesel service on ebay. I have bought a lot of stuff from them for this project.
FF5052 has been discontinued but the Wix number is 33777. It has a M16x1.5 thread so the main opening will need to be opened up to fit the 20mm thread. Both filters have gasket sizes is 62mm ID and 69mm OD.
FS1280 seems readily available and is Wix number 33357. It has 13/16-18 thread so the offset adapter will need to be changed out.

The other option, I will have a adapt the stock filter head to 1"-14 either by machining a new adapter thats M20x1.5 on one side and 1"-14 on the other, or machining the filter head to 1"-14 and running a strait 1"-14 adapter. Then install a separate filter head mounted somewhere else with 1"-14 already and then figure out the plumbing. Using the above dual filter head unit, the stock plumbing can be retained, and even reversed in a matter of minutes.




Apparently Cummins 3915240 is another part number for this dual head assembly. These dual filter heads bolt right up to 1st gen cummins with no modification at all. They changed the filter stud sizes on 2nd gen so they will require some mods to run but should be very strait forward. When I order this dual head setup, I will post pics of the mods and parts I get so others can follow the same setup!

[BA_051]

Alrighty, I got the parts back from the machine shop and assembled everything to make sure it all fits... The fuel is directed to the offset filter first then back to the main filter and back through the head unit. I had two, 3" grade 8, 1"-14 tpi bolts drilled out and one was machined to the same thread as the adapter in the offset filter location. It goes from about 5/8" to the 1" and there is an oring under it to seal it to the housing. Then there is the square oring that came with the filter.

I then had the main head unit drilled out and tapped to 1"-14 and drilled out the through hole to 1" as well. There are two orings between the heads, one small around the threads, and one about 3" round on the outer edge to seal them up. Then there is a 1/2" tall, nut that holds the dual filter unit to the main unit. It also has a seal under it so there is no way for fuel to leak past any of the threads and bypass the filters.

I will probably create a riser to move the filter assembly up about 3" to gain clearance above the lift pump. The Primary is a 2 micron wix filter and the secondary is a 10 micron/separator. I like the clear bowl so I can see when there is crap in it that needs to be drained.

[BA_051]

Well It has been quite some time since my last post and not a whole lot has been getting done, especially with the holidays... But here are some pics of the fuel assembly installed and filled along with some interior work.
There is a lot more room between the drain on the separator than the pic shows, it is about 1".

[BA_051]

And I found out the passenger side floor had about five 1/4" holes rusted though it so I figured I had the interior removed, why not fix it. So I tacked and ground the holes and coated it with 5 or 6 layers of POR15 after prepping it with their solutions and what not. That POR15 is pretty crazy stuff. It took some work to scuff it with 220 sand paper so the other coats would stick but works real nice.

[BA_051]

And I figured, what the heck, why stop there... I found a complete dash from a 1989 grand wagoneer (bought it from a fellow ISFJA member, Thanks a bunch dude) and did some mods to it... I did not have the cluster, and didnt need it. I very carefully cut the vertical segments out of the plactic bezel and made a new inlay out of black 1/8" ABS. There will be 10 gauges in it. I will post pics of it as soon as I get the last 2 gauges in 2-3 weeks. I painted the metal portion of the dash with black satin rollbar and chassis paint and already installed it in the truck. And yes, I removed the old dash with the windshield in place, and installed the 89 dash with the windshield still in place. I just had the windshield replaced 11 months ago and put a new BJ's offroad gasket around it.

[BA_051]

And finally, after owning this truck for 19 years, I bought a carpet kit and used frost king under it. Sure, its not dynamat, but it was only $36 for 3 rolls of it from lowes and my brother used it in his XJ and said it made a world of difference. So here are those pics. Im not completely finished installing the carpet, but its mostly in. Just need to trim it.

[BA_051]

And finally, I am restoring the dash pad. It was in pretty good shape when I received it, but It was in need of some repair. So I removed all the old vinyl, and cut the pad into 4 pieces because it shrunk nearly 3/4" with age. I used original gorilla glue to expand and fill the 1/4" gap and it did really really well. I used my dremel and sanded it down then covered it with 1/8" high density closed cell foam. I have to cover it with vinyl still. But here it is right now.

[BA_051]

Well Some of you may have noticed my post in the wanted section for an 86+ dash pad... Between the cats clawing at it (I dont know why they are infatuated with clawing foam, any foam), and my 3 and 5 year old, it ended up in a lot of pieces...


SO for now I am without a dash pad.


On the up side, I have my center seat, and drivers seat bolted back in and I reworked all the dash wiring. It is no longer a rats nest. Little more trimming on the carpet on the passenger side and it will be complete.


Then to make a new heater box and reinstall the factory heater under the dash and plumb the turbo to the intake and make an air box.


I will keep everyone updated with pics as I get them done.

[BA_051]

So it has been a while since I last posted on this build... Between work, a horrible winter here in Seattle, and other life events I just didnt have a whole lot of time to work on getting this beast back up and running. But here are a few updates...


I put in new weatherstrip around the doors and finished installing the carpet. Just need to do the transfercase shifter boots.






And I installed and wired up the new instrument cluster...



And made an air box to hopefully keep engine grime to a minimum and get fresh air from the grill between the valance and core support....



And finally here is a shot of the engine bay. I bought those valve covers for $180 and they are actually 1/4" deeper than the stock ones measured from the rib in the stock ones. With the rib ground flush, the new ones are 3/8" or even 7/16" deeper and will clear the H1 head studs without pedestal machining. Just topping off fluids and such before firing it up for the first time in almost a year since the 6.5TD block cracked.



I also have a 55 sec video I took of the first startup while it was still in the storage unit. But I cant seem to figure out how to embed the link from google photos... My pics seem to work perfectly fine.

[BA_051]

Well all went well on he drive from storage to my apartment garage (its only 2.2 miles). I noticed what sounds like gear rollover when coasting or barely touching the gas at anything above 35-40 mph. Its actually quiet in all 5 gears when accelerating and when using the engine compression to slow down. Its only when coasting.

I know I did have a high speed vibration before (above 55 mph) with the 6.5TD, but it wasnt bad. Only thing that changed on the driveline was moving the trans/tcase back 9" and I had a new 1410 driveshaft made and swapped the 1330 yokes for 1410's.

And the transmission and tcase sit about 2" higher as well, closer to the body and possible at a different angle... I will bet thats it... must have a pretty good difference in angle between the ujoints... I will need to find my angle finder...

On a side note... I took it out for another test drive after I secured the exhaust from touching the crossmember and a lot of vibrations and noise were eliminated (still have the grunting gear noise when coasting above 40 though). My cruising boost is between 2-3 psi and when I go from almost nothing to about half throttle, the boost shoots up and pings my 20 psi boost gauge in about a second.... and BOOOOM! WHOOOSH! No power, no accelerating, lots of smoke... Scared the hell out of me... It was a simple case of the 3" intake tube blowing out of the coupler from the compressor outlet... Put it back together, started it back up, and got home without issues... Now I know I have to figure out how to put a flare on those tubes or take them to a shop...

[BA_051]

So I measured my Driveline angles... on flat ground the frame is at 0 degrees, perfectly flat...

Engine/trans/tcase sit 1 degree down from front to back...
Driveshaft sits at 16 degrees down...
Axle sits at 10 degrees up...

I added 8 degree shims to roll the diff down and that took care of my vibration issues.