Exhaust Manifold Bolts

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  • JeepJeepster
    350 Buick
    • Sep 04, 2014
    • 835

    #16
    I used grade 8 bolts, lots of antiseize, and nord lock wedge locking washers.
    2004 Jeep Liberty
    1998 Jeep ZJ 5.9
    1994 Jeep ZJ I6
    1989 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 360

    Comment

    • Ristow
      • Jan 20, 2006
      • 17292

      #17
      i believe the bolts were hollow so they would stretch more easily upon torque down,which keeps them snug thru the temp swings.


      i use plain bolts when the hollow bolts are not useable.


      anyone that has fought the older 3/8' bolts into position appreciated the move to the 5/16 bolts.
      Originally posted by Hankrod
      Ristows right.................again,


      Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
      ... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


      Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
      I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!

      It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...

      Comment

      • babywag
        out of order
        • Jun 08, 2005
        • 10287

        #18
        I have just regular ole bolts on both my GWs.
        88 even has headers, no leaks, have stayed tight, etc.
        I do recall back in 2005 a couple bolts broke on removal.
        The hollow bolts made for super simple removal.
        Tony
        88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

        Comment

        • Rod2
          327 Rambler
          • Apr 11, 2004
          • 653

          #19
          I replaced my manny bolts with 3/8 stainless steel bolts--not hollow and no problems,
          Rod Skaggs
          '73 J4000 'WOOD GO' 360, 2100 MC, T-18, D-20, 60-2 rear, D-44 closed knuckle front with Warn Lock-O-Matics, Eaton E-lockers both, Pertronix module, AC, PS, '77 Firebird tilt column, Hydro-boost, AirLift bags front and rear, 33x15 Goodyear MTR's, Pacer 15x8 aluminum Bullet Holes, Summit line lock, 3rd brake light, MileMarker 12,000 cradle mounted winch

          Comment

          • 61Hawk
            258 I6
            • Jul 18, 2009
            • 377

            #20
            Originally posted by Rod2
            I replaced my manny bolts with 3/8 stainless steel bolts--not hollow and no problems,


            Aren't stainless steel bolts awful brittle?

            Comment

            • Wagoneer Taylor
              258 I6
              • Dec 17, 2018
              • 434

              #21
              Originally posted by 61Hawk
              Aren't stainless steel bolts awful brittle?
              Not sure about brittle, but stainless bolts are roughly equivalent to Grade 5 bolts as far as strength. Grade 8 is "stronger", I am sure it is fine to use stainless in this application. I am by no means an expert, but I use ALOT of stainless fasteners and material in my work. We use them not so much for the strength but the corrosion and heat resistance, strength just happens to be happy by product. I have found stainless to be more likely to seize or gale during installation, but when removing after a long time or many heat cycles they usually come out just fine. (we use them in heater blocks that got up to about 500 F)

              I may have steered us a little off track but I thought this was a cool exercise of thinking about hollowed stainless bolts and how they might hold up to this same situation.
              Some call me Taylor...

              1977 Jeep Wagoneer (Wedding Wagon)
              Pewter, Blue Interior, Original 401
              PO swapped in a 360, soon to be a 401 again!
              "Soon" is a relative term.
              Cracked cylinder put a hurt on me + bad connecting rods.

              Comment

              • wiley-moeracing
                350 Buick
                • Feb 15, 2010
                • 1430

                #22
                Use anti seize when installing stainless steel.

                Comment


                • #23
                  The space around the bolt allows for thermal expansion of the exhaust manifold. Big chunks of cast iron expand quite a bit when they get as hot as exhaust manifolds do, and the manifolds would crack if they were not allowed to shift and "creep" around the bolts as they expand and contract. The bolt holes in the center of the manifolds are smaller because they are there to hold the center of the manifold in place while the far ends of the manifolds expand and contract. That is why the bolt holes out at the far ends are larger than the bolt holes in the center.

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