s10 Gearbox swap-good company

[Cecil14]

Anybody got pics of an S10 box in their truck?

It looks just like a standard saginaw box...just minus one of the mounting bolts on the frame side.


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[-Bluegill-]

Anybody got pics of an S10 box in their truck?

I'd snap some, but I can see the questions now - "which muddy/rusty part is that?" LOL

It looks almost just like the stock FSJ box except only 3 bolts thru the frame mounts.

[Thomas792]

So it is better why??

[-Bluegill-]

So it is better why??

Most FSJ steering boxes are designed for maximum power assistance at all times, which means at interstate speeds you can almost blow on the wheel & it will change directions. When the S-10 box is centered (i.e, highway speeds), it is firmer - less pump pressure - to help keep your rig pointed straight. But off road or tight street turns it feels alot like the FSJ box. Basically more steering stability for lifted rigs.

[Thomas792]

I've heard the best box was the J20 box because of the 2" bore (on the master cylinder?) So the S10 box is better? Does it matter 4x2 or 4x4 and what years? Will it leak less than my FSJ boxes?
My GW box is leaking and a replacement from a yard that is leak free and less "sensitive" at highway speed would be great.

[-Bluegill-]

Dunno about the J-20 box, so I can't say that the S-10 box is better; but I sure do like mine. And it is probably the only thing on my Cherk that DOESN'T leak. LOL Needs to be from a 4x4, not 2wd. My FSJ pitman arm even bolted up to it.

[Thomas792]

Looks like I'll have to bring the kid's wagon to the pick'n'pull as the parts list keeps growing.

[Long&Low]

OK, so what year range S10 would I be looking for to replace the S10 box already on the J10? And it has to be a 4x4 version, correct?

[Tad]

I've heard the best box was the J20 box because of the 2" bore (on the master cylinder?) So the S10 box is better? Does it matter 4x2 or 4x4 and what years? Will it leak less than my FSJ boxes?
My GW box is leaking and a replacement from a yard that is leak free and less "sensitive" at highway speed would be great.

I can't really compare the two since an S10 box does not work for the older frame (pre-D44 front I think) people.
My intention was to use an S10 box even tough they only have three mounting tabs, unfortunatly the older steering box mounts only have three mounting points and they are not the same, this would have left me with only two, plus a steering brace, not good.

The J20 box is bigger, visibly so on the end cap, but it's a bolt in.
I've been running it for almost two years now with no complaints, centers well and turns 315's easily, I don't even run a steering stabilizer but will eventually put that back on. I've not noticed any loss of performance since the HB install.

[Thomas792]

On another bulletin board with the initials of POR, many years ago I got the word that the J20 was better because of the 2" bore of the box. The larger bore applied more pressure to the drag link so was better/easier to turn with larger tires. I was told that it felt like a J10 box with the Redneck Ram set up. That's why I brought up the J20 question and was wondering if the S10 box applied more force to the drag link then the J10 box? If the answer is no then it is really only applicable for those who want better highway manners. I personally want one that can apply more force so I think I am staying with my original (years ago) assumption that I want a J20 box. If the S10 box applies more force then the J10, does it apply as much as the J20? What are the numbers so we can compare the pros and cons?

[-Bluegill-]

The only struggle my S-10 box has turning 36" Iroks is when at least one of them is wedged on a huge rock (as in larger than the tire). Dunno about ya'll - but in my life I ain't seen ANY box be able to turn in a situation like that. Otherwise, it points these big Swampers wherever I want, without even grunting.

As soon as I figure out how to get enough pump pressure to support both HB brakes and hydro-assist ram steering - I'll let ya know.

[Serious Johnson]

Can't provide any numbers, and the only rig I've had with 36s had manual steering (now that was interesting!). I can say that my 4-year-old nephew can crank the wheel on my Wag with 33s and an S-10 box when it's front wheels are trapped in a v-gulley. If I could find a 3-year-old girl willing to try replicating the experiment perhaps I'd have a useful answer.

Just how much force do you need?

S.J.

[Elliott]

As soon as I figure out how to get enough pump pressure to support both HB brakes and hydro-assist ram steering - I'll let ya know.

First thing I'd try is swapping in a pump pressure releif valve from a hydroboosted one ton dually truck's pump. That'l raise you at least a couple hundred psi. If your steering assist ram has less than a 2" piston it's also going to less gpm flow requirement. For $150 Hydratech Braking will "flow" your HB, but I doubt that is something you'd need to do with a smaller steering assist cylinder and lots of them are far less than 2".

[-Bluegill-]

Thanks for the tip Elliott! Yeah, most hydro-assist setups are recommended to use a 1.5" cylinder. I also plan on getting the AGR super pump, it can't hurt.

[HeavyIron]

I can't really compare the two since an S10 box does not work for the older frame (pre-D44 front I think) people.
My intention was to use an S10 box even tough they only have three mounting tabs, unfortunatly the older steering box mounts only have three mounting points and they are not the same, this would have left me with only two, plus a steering brace, not good.

I too have a pre-D44 frame and it seems that our options are limited. So Tad, does that J20 box bolt right up? What year is that box from and how about a J10 box instead?