I'm thinking of removing the stock roof rack on my '87 Wagoneer, but not sure how's the best way to plug up the roof holes. I saw on someone's personal website that they had used nylon plugs & clear silicon when they replaced their stock roof rack with an aftermarket rack. The roof is rough n' rusty with a thick coat of rust preventer so any plug/patch isn't gonna make the roof look any worse. Anyone else tried this?
Permenantly removing roof rack
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Plugs sound like a good temp fix... Can you share a link to the web site where you got the info?Project: 1979 Wagoneer 360, Turbo 400, Q-Track, and Dana 44's
Lovingly refereed to as the "The Wagon"...
Daily Driver: 2008 Jeep Commander Rocky Mountain Edition 4.7L, Q-Trac II
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll58/jeepxk/DSC08388.jpg
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thats how my wag is currently done... its a common trick for removing spoilers amongst the import crowd and does work as a good temporary fix1985 Grand Wagoneer-360/727/229/D44/AMC20
2011 Mazdaspeed 3
2012 Focus
2000 Camaro
1995 Mustang
2009 GSXR-600
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Mine is "de-racked" too -- I just went to the local hardware store and looked for the caps that have a large "outside" cap and a smaller piece that goes into the holes.
Used small nylon plugs for the roof rack strips and screw holes.
All applied with silicone sealant -
Bob79 Cherokee S
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Weld them up no leaks!!_____________________________________________
Heaven begins where the pavement ends
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1978 Cherokee Chief 401
TH400 QT w/LO D-44 3.54
www.cabinet123software.com
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I wanna pull mine off and weld it up too, but I'm kinda chicken. I go back and forth somedays liking it others I just can't stand it. I'll probably pull mine off, and take the real nice one (that is useless 9' in the air) off my Excursion and throw it on the Jeep in place of the stock one.
however I seal it up, I'm going to line the top with good textured bed liner that will hold up to a beating and to the elements and it will hide any imperfections caused by welding the holes up.Last edited by CutterN55; 10-25-2010, 06:46 PM.ROMANS 12:1-2
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'89 GW deceased
Ford 4spd swap Np435/205
Lifted/stretched on 36's/4.10 thick gears/spooled rear
'86 CJ-7 Renegade, Restored, original steel.
new Built TBI 258/Np435/D300 twin-sticks/Waggy D44's
37" Super Swampers and lots of goodies!
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plugs
I guess I was kinda hoping I could find some kind of roof rack hole plug kit like the ones you can get for Volvo wagons. Here's the link to the website that used the nylon plugs/silicon:
I'm still toying with the idea of getting new wellplugs, or whatever you call those gizmos that go in the holes and expand when you tighten them up, and just removing the roof rack and reusing the torx screws with washers, assuming I could find some stainless washers big enough to cover the 1/2" hole that will work with the torx screws.
There was also an earlier thread that mentioned fiberglass patch, probably the better permemant solution but my headliner is in decent shape so I don't plan to pull it anytime soon.
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well plugs
I stumbled across another forum discussing the same problem for a Nissan truck, someone posted this link to a parts warehouse website with a good selection of wellplugs:
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
never ordered from them before but they have a gi-normous selection of miscellaneous parts. Although their 1/2" wellplugs run about 8 or 9 bucks/10, and Team Grand Wagoneer has all 12 for $18. I may just order a new set from TGWagoneer and try the torx screw/washer fix. If I decide to put the rack back on, I'll at least have new plugs in the roof.
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I'm not not much into plastic plugs. If'n were me I'd inject silicone (black) into the holes. If ya get sloppy and get too much in it smooth it out with an ice cube. Silicone won't stick to ice like it does your finger. Works great for silicone, bathtub, window caulk etc. Nice smooth pro looking job. Ice works good, I take all my coffee cups I use on the boats and cover the bottom with 1/4" of silicone and smooth it with an ice cube. Looks good and great non skid for boat use.
Oh use black silicone for outdoor use.
The clear will be eaten by UV light in a year and leak. Black is unaffected by UV rays.joe
"Don't mind me. I'm just here for the alibi"
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I would stay away from silicone. Nothing for it to stick to(unless you make a large mound) and NOTHING sticks to cured silicone, not even silicone. Silicone contamination is a big no no in aerospace applications. For a no weld fix, concave the area and use a filler with metal in the base (Sand to metal first). If you want to retain the roof rack capability should you change your mind, fab up a couple of metal pieces to be held in place using a gasket or even something similar to the current rack mounting system.Mike Morgan
Slidell, LA
'90 Grand Wagoneer
SOA, CUCV 14 bolt rear, 4.56 and Detroit, Looking for HP Dana 60 for front, 1" Body lift, 44044 Rancho Springs up front, Dodge 4x4 Rear leafs and shackles, BJs 1" lift shackles in front.
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Originally posted by wandersonI'm still toying with the idea of getting new wellplugs, or whatever you call those gizmos that go in the holes and expand when you tighten them up, and just removing the roof rack and reusing the torx screws with washers, assuming I could find some stainless washers big enough to cover the 1/2" hole that will work with the torx screws.Ethan Brady
1987 Grand Wagoneer, slightly longer than stock.
www.bigscaryjeep.com
Don't mess with me. I once killed a living hinge.
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i actually have a package of 25 NOS well nuts if anyone needs them.... enough to do a roof rack and air deflector and still have some spares
pm me if you're interested so the thread doesn't get to far off topic1985 Grand Wagoneer-360/727/229/D44/AMC20
2011 Mazdaspeed 3
2012 Focus
2000 Camaro
1995 Mustang
2009 GSXR-600
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