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Old 07-13-2019, 07:37 PM
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RVAWagon RVAWagon is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Sep 01, 2015
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 69
OK another day and another failure.



I knew the dash switch was bad and so I replaced it today but it still does not actuate the motor. Although now the switch does draw current, which it did not do before. The stitch does heat up when it's being used, but cools down when it's in the normal state. I've tested the switch with a test light as well as a voltmeter. The battery is supplying 12v to the switch and when the switch is actuated either the brown or the tan is getting 12v.

I have now bypassed the safety switch AND the tailgate door switch. I was thinking that the door switch went bad and since it seems to be a PITA to get to the tailgate window switch, I decided to simplify the circuitry and I spliced the brown and tan wires that come from the dash switch directly to the brown and tan wires that go to the motor connector. When I hook up the test light, both wires will show to be getting steady current with the test light. If I put 12v from the battery directly to the motor, the motor powers up and goes up and down.

I have replaced both the 30A/12V circuit breakers under the dash.

When I crawl in the back with the voltmeter, I can't seem to get a steady/measurable voltage on the brown or tan wires where I spliced them together.....

So I'm thinking that somewhere there is a broken connection that is allowing some power to get to the tailgate motor, but not enough to power the motor. Does that sound right?

Is there anything else I should check?

I'm unsure where to go next....
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1987 Grand Wagoneer Stock
The original owner kept it in a garage and barely drove it, I bought it in Sept of '15 with 107K miles on the clock... so many of the parts that I pull off are still AMC originals.

Gone But Not Forgotten:
1993 Jeep XJ Cherokee
2000 Jeep TJ Wrangler
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