Thanks guys! I try and make it look good and use quality components. Those sealed ring terminals are worth every penny. It keeps corrosion out and adds stability to the crimp.
I was under the impression that his son (I think) stopped communicating through the forum.
I made it plug and play unless you want to hard wire it in. In which case I'll take $5 off and include the butt connectors and heat shrink.
What is that?
Nobody will read them anyway
I'll be doing a write up with pics this weekend if I get a chance but in case anyone is curious it should take about 15-20 minutes to install if you don't have distractions.
Here's a quick run down of installation from memory...
1. remove headlight bezels (4 phillip screws each)
2. remove and unplug headlights (also 4 screws)
3. remove grill (a few bolts, mine also had some phillips screws)
4. route new harness in - The far end with the male and female plugs will go on the drivers side. Plug that male plug into the factory wired headlight socket and the ceramic female will get plugged into the headlight later. Route the fuse holder, positive and negative leads through hole behind and "up under" the passenger headlight area where the battery is. (see pics of the fuse holder above)
5. Attach both positives to either the battery positive or the output stud from the alternator.
6. Attach negative to negative side of the battery
7. You can either let the relays "hang around" behind the passenger headlight or use self tapping screw to attach relays to the header/core support next to the passenger headlight
8. reinstall headlights using the new harness plugs
9. test em out
10. zip tie the harness up and make it look tidy
11. reinstall grill
12. reinstall bezels
13. pat yourself on the back
It sounds a lot more complicated than it is. Once I get the pics you'll see how easy it is.
You'll need very basic hand tools.
No cutting and splicing. I promise.
(Edit) Price includes shipping to the states.