I think he said they are 16 gauge, which is a little on the thin side - I would prefer 12-14, but with a skid plate, it shouldn't be an issue.
Another gas tank thread...
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Also, two more questions.
My vehicle was severely desmogged by a PO, and I don't really want to put a charcoal canister back on, but I also don't want open fuel lines just hanging, so I want a vented gas cap. Are the stock gas caps vented? If not, where can I get one for a 1990 Wagoneer that is sufficiently vented to avoid issues?
Those of you who have two tanks, how have you routed the lines?
My preference would be one fuel pump (the stock mechanical fuel pump) and one gauge. The single gauge is easy - just run a 3-way switch, like this:
Gauge-----switch-----main sending unit
'-----auxiliary sending unit
Any ideas on how to run just the stock mechanical fuel pump? Is it doable?
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we make some 27 gallon tanks that are heavy duty, here:
They are more expensive, but they are built better, stronger, and fit right the first time.BJ's Off-Road
[email protected]
Your source for '63-'91 FSJ Parts
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Originally posted by Forrest the FSJAlso, two more questions.
My vehicle was severely desmogged by a PO, and I don't really want to put a charcoal canister back on, but I also don't want open fuel lines just hanging, so I want a vented gas cap. Are the stock gas caps vented? If not, where can I get one for a 1990 Wagoneer that is sufficiently vented to avoid issues?
Those of you who have two tanks, how have you routed the lines?
My preference would be one fuel pump (the stock mechanical fuel pump) and one gauge. The single gauge is easy - just run a 3-way switch, like this:
Gauge-----switch-----main sending unit
'-----auxiliary sending unit
Any ideas on how to run just the stock mechanical fuel pump? Is it doable?
Many good ways to rig up an auxiliary tank, depends on what you're looking for. Single filler neck or one for each tank? One way to do it without a switcher valve would be to have an electric pump on the #2 tank that pumps the fuel to the #1 tank, IIRC that's how some of the factory setups were done.
Another way would be to use a switcher valve from a Ford or IHC/Land Rover, Ford valve is electric and the IHC/Land Rover would be mechanical. Could also go for an aftermarket electric valve.
The IHC valve is actuated by a choke cable and you can have an A/B switch on the dash for the fuel gauge.
Here's the IH valve:
Only weird thing would be the fuel return line, the IH valve doesn't help out with that but the Ford one does. You can always leave the return line going only to the stock tank.You know it's bad when your car's on the EPA's 10 most wanted list!
'82 J10
'88 GW
'77 J10 Golden Eagle 401
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Originally posted by grand_wag_85Many good ways to rig up an auxiliary tank, depends on what you're looking for. Single filler neck or one for each tank? One way to do it without a switcher valve would be to have an electric pump on the #2 tank that pumps the fuel to the #1 tank, IIRC that's how some of the factory setups were done.
Another way would be to use a switcher valve from a Ford or IHC/Land Rover, Ford valve is electric and the IHC/Land Rover would be mechanical. Could also go for an aftermarket electric valve. The IHC valve is actuated by a choke cable and you can have an A/B switch on the dash for the fuel gauge. Only weird thing would be the fuel return line, the IH valve doesn't help out with that but the Ford one does. You can always leave the return line going only to the stock tank.
I would be OK with two fill hoses, two gauges, and two fuel pumps, although it is definitely not preferred.Last edited by Forrest the FSJ; 02-18-2013, 10:10 PM.
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