Dana 20 doubler

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  • trcooperone
    258 I6
    • Feb 23, 2007
    • 492

    Dana 20 doubler

    There was a pervious post that sparked this idea, has anyone ever used this doubler kit that uses a np203 range box and mates to a dana 20.



    What do you think? opinions?
    1976 Cherokee Chief w/401, SOA and chevy 63" springs in the back, Dana 60 in the front and Dana 70 rear welded, dana 20 twin sticked, and 38" TSL's
  • 4x4fEvEr
    350 Buick
    • May 25, 2005
    • 803

    #2
    I wouldn't waste my time using a 20, there's so many other and better cases. If you are gonna use a 2:1 case you should atleast use one that will take abuse like a NP205
    77 cherokee chief 360/435/205-60/60-42's

    Comment

    • ncjeepers
      327 Rambler
      • Dec 18, 2002
      • 709

      #3
      A D300 with a 4:1 kit would probably be cheaper and make for a much lighter and more compact package.
      Tony Casey
      BullGearInc.com

      Comment

      • elbastardo
        327 Rambler
        • Oct 04, 2005
        • 507

        #4
        Im a BIG fan of the 20. But i went to the 205.

        Comment

        • incommando

          #5
          Outside the 205, I don't know of that many factory cases better than the 20. Cast iron box, gear-to-gear transfer of power, compact, and upgradable without a bunch of trouble. One downside of must OEM aluminum cases is breaking the case with trail obstacles hitting it.

          For a lot of guys running autos, the easiest way to double your crawl ratio is to switch to a T18/19, 465,435, or 420 tranny.

          Comment

          • Randyzzz
            258 I6
            • Mar 03, 2008
            • 354

            #6
            Use a D300, not a D20. The D20 is a good case, just not ideal for a doubler.

            Biggest problem with using a D20 as the second box is front bearing retention. The D20 bearing and gear ride on the output shaft of the 203, making it critical that the 203 output is machined perfectly with attention paid to gasket thickness and other variables. Plus the machining required on the 203 shaft includes a surface for the bearing to press onto and then a threaded area.

            A D300 has a captured, sealed front bearing. All that's needed on the 203 end is a splined shaft. No real critical lengths here...plus the standard NP front bolt pattern on a 300 is much easier to build an adapter for- the D20 texas pattern always seems to have a bolt in the wrong place.

            I designed a D20/203 adapter...then redesigned for a D300, much easier. Then I got a 241OR case cheap, and gave up on the doubler idea all together. Still have a 2" thick aluminum plate sitting in the cabinet...
            Randy S.
            It's not what you Buy, it's what you Build.
            1987 J20 SOLD
            1966 Waggy SOLD
            1970 Waggy SOLD
            1982 Scrambler SOLD
            1981 Scrambler - Current Project/Keeper

            Comment


            • #7
              yeah but you alos will need to upgrade the output shaft. I have no issue with the D20 except that. I've seen too many people stranded or broken down because of it including yours truly. if anything I'd go with the 300 if I had to.
              Places to Wheel in the Southeast

              Originally posted by Topgun2mo
              I would think boxing would limit the amount the frame could flex over obstacles which I think IMO would be a bad thing. I would think you would want all the articulation possible.
              Originally posted by johnny019
              I'm not saying lockers don't improve the performance of your rig, just that they're overrated.

              Comment

              • SCscoutguy
                327 Rambler
                • Jul 25, 2005
                • 692

                #8
                That kit is for use with a Ford pattern Dana 20 which is much harder to find than the Jeep/IH 5 bolt Texas style Dana 20's.
                John

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