Doesnt sound too bad. Does the turn signal switch plug in and work? And I wonder how hard it would be to make the dimmer work.
Yet another Cherokee build
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79 Cherokee Chief 401/T18/D20, MPFI fuel injection, hydroboost, otherwise stock.
Future mods: Caddy 500/NV4500/NP205, HP D60 front D60 smooth botom rear, 5.13 gears, 35x12.50's on H1 beadlock wheels. Warn M12000 winch.
93 Wrangler 4.6 stroker/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, front hub conversion/big brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.
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I just bought one of the XJ collums at the pull a part to put into mine.
I noticed the little arm thingy that the shifter cable attaches to keeps you from turning the key switch all the way off. It will drop down under slight spring pressure when you turn the key on, and wont let you turn the key off untill you manually push it back up. I wanted that part gone.
Well, after taking the collumn almost completely apart, and still not able to get to it, if got mad and started twisting it and pulling. I found all you have to do is turn the key on, and rotate it 90 degrees and pull it out. Now that feature is completely gone! There is a little plastic interlok pill that connects that thing with the switch rod. It stays in there but doesnt effect anything with the shifter nub gone.
Hopefully my frustration and wasted time (dissassembling the thing) helps someone out. Now I just need to get the time to swap the thing in.79 Cherokee Chief 401/T18/D20, MPFI fuel injection, hydroboost, otherwise stock.
Future mods: Caddy 500/NV4500/NP205, HP D60 front D60 smooth botom rear, 5.13 gears, 35x12.50's on H1 beadlock wheels. Warn M12000 winch.
93 Wrangler 4.6 stroker/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, front hub conversion/big brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.
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Originally posted by JeepinPeteThat's very interesting. I've been lead to believe the flares were the same stamping. Obviously that isn't the case. But it looks like you have it licked
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So I am now about 95% done with the fender flare install. That means I'm 96% done with body work. This weekend I am having a paint stripping party, gonna turn the driveway smurfy. here is the drivers side done.
The patch panel.
The inside of the wheel well. Looks like hell, but I haven't ground it yet and covered it in undercoating. Just turn the monitor sideways.
All this was replaced as well.
Sorry the pic sucks. Had light issues.If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer.
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Originally posted by JeepinPeteShiny
If I did the same here, it would be rusted tomorrow morning
I had to prime (at least self-etch prime) any area that I stripped down same day, otherwise......the evil would have taken over.
Looking good as always! Keep it up.
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More work done. Body is in first coat of primer. Well epoxy primer and regular primer.
Fortunately, I didn't need much filler, but still went through 1.5L of Evercoat to get it the way I wanted. Of course, you spray primer and you can see all the places you missed. I still have all the front sheet metal to do, but those pieces need very little body work. It's just strip and prime, with a little filler on the hood.If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer.
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Awesome job. So the J Truck flare was used as a unit together with the inner fender well? I have a 74 J10 but the inner fender well had a sharp edge between where the tire tread would be and where the sidewall would be (hard to explain). I'm not familiar with the Cherokee but my Grand Wagoneer seat "rides" on the rear inner fender well. Putting one in from a J Truck would be too large to let the rear seat fit properly. How does yours fit?1974 J10 (401, Th400, Q-Trac, D44s, 28" tires)
Mrs Tickity - 1988 GW (360, 727, 229, D44s, 32" tires)
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