To Do List for my 1979 Chief

[letank]

the hot valve is without the flat inside! useless!

I missed that long post of yours, what a challenge!


Here in Cal we have a voluntary curfew so to speak since Tuesday... but we can work in the garage.


that hot valve called heater valve was basically installed to help the warm up process, but a lot of us have done the hack, because if it malfunctions it is a pain... the heater valve does not really help, I have hacked both heater valve in the 74 and 85. It may take a little extra time to warm up in freezing conditions, but it is not a problem.


As for the shocks, IIRC it will not give you an extra lift, merely firm up the shocks. And YES the installation is a standard,2 plastic hoses going to a shraeder valve (tire valve) installed by rear bumper or the towing hitch. 8 to 10 psi... sorry you will have to convert to whatever the Euro units are;

[wincher]

I missed that long post of yours, what a challenge!


Here in Cal we have a voluntary curfew so to speak since Tuesday... but we can work in the garage.


that hot valve called heater valve was basically installed to help the warm up process, but a lot of us have done the hack, because if it malfunctions it is a pain... the heater valve does not really help, I have hacked both heater valve in the 74 and 85. It may take a little extra time to warm up in freezing conditions, but it is not a problem.


As for the shocks, IIRC it will not give you an extra lift, merely firm up the shocks. And YES the installation is a standard,2 plastic hoses going to a shraeder valve (tire valve) installed by rear bumper or the towing hitch. 8 to 10 psi... sorry you will have to convert to whatever the Euro units are;

Thanks, i dont need the hot valve, I drive the Chief only from april until Oktober, not in the winter.
10 psi are 0,69 bar. will check it soon.

[wincher]

This is a pic of a walker tube.
the y is vertical, i think it is more space for the driveshaft.
BBy mine is the y horizontal, and the driveshaft toutches the tube when the shocks are all out, like on the car lift

Whats about offroad drive? the driveshaft hits against the tube!

[rang-a-stang]

I think that Y-Pipe in your picture is for a 1980+. The 1979 and down is different to clear the passenger side drive shaft. The 1980 and up has a driver side drive shaft and will not work for you.

I had a Y-Pipe made for my rig at an exhaust shop. It cost me about $250 for everything here in Southern California. I assume you guys have exhaust shops there, too, right? Maybe take some pictures and bring them with your and get a quote. Might be cheaper than trying to make yours work.

I can probably find a used one here in Southern California and send it to you but the shipping would probably make it cheaper for you to just have one made.

My tires are just a tiny bit under 33" (I have 285/75-16's) and they clear with almost no lift. I have heard other say that 33" will fit with no lift under a wide track like ours but I cannot say with certainty they will. I am pretty sure you can get 35" under a 2.5" lift or 4" lift.

I am not a fan of block in my lifts. If I were going to buy a 4" lift, I would save my money fora while and buy a kit with lift springs. Something like one of these:

https://www.bjsoffroad.com/BDS-4-Inch-Suspension-Kit-1976-1991_p_1295.html

https://www.bjsoffroad.com/Skyjacker-Softride-4-Lift-Kit_p_1302.html

https://www.4wd.com/p/skyjacker-4-inch-standard-lift-kit-jp45ks/_/R-BHNG-JP45KS

https://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-suspension/jeep-suspension-lift-kits/fs-full-size-76-91-jeep-suspension-lift-kits/rustys-fsj-3-5-4-full-size-spring-pack-lift-kit.html

[wincher]

thanks for your statement
Yes the pic is for a 80+
cant find a us parts shop with a 79 or earliers part like this.
Have to go to the garage of my brother (it is corona allowed) and make the old proper


No the winter ins back. Slight snowfall, windy...


Im searching for the coolant recovery bottle and the windshild washer bottle. Both are missing .

have placed a advertisment in the "look for parts" too..


The exhaust is finished for now..

the complete exhaust is one piece welded, no clambing piece.

Maybe in the future a job to make it better and replace the front pipe or complete.

[wincher]

Distributor

At page 1A-23 of the 1978 jeepshopmanuelcomplete is a chart for the distributors.
The 360 Automatic should have a 3231341 type.


I have a prestolite 322 0 (or 8?) 265. further number: 1 DJ4001F 18 6
ist this type ok?

[wincher]

sunday morning time look for the electrical desaster.
Alone in the garage. corona distance was warranted.
Did the 1L-26 Chart 5 for oil pressure gauge and hope someone can help me


Step 4: I have 6,7V on the right nut from the oil gauge
Step 5 with ground the left nut the oil needle moves to 60
Step 6: gronding the gauge pin terminal (purple wire) the needle goes to 60

and the fuel needle drops from full to 1/4! until this step the fuel gauge was full.
"Repair open circuit in sende wire!
But The wire from the oil sender to the gauge is ok.


Step 7: ground from the battery was ok. (i did the further grounding on a screw on the steering column inside)
step 12: i did connect a jumper wire from cluser ground to body. no change.


What is to do after the Step 6 in my fall?


the green ohmic resistance is the reason for the 6.7 V to Pin 11 ignition to the Cluster connector.


Did a new case screw to ground the cluster



Have found the fasten belt indicator lamp... not in use. but the bulb holder was with 2 wires (yellow and black) and without the contact for the board??
I wont to use this bulb holder for the emergency drive bulb because this is missing in the board.. the electrifica cames from the board. correct?

[wincher]

as showed weeks ago.
this green part is a ohmic resistance
with the clip it is adjustet to 780ohms and the red wirde goes to Wire 4red 18 to "E" of the round cluster connection. "E" is ignition.

any idea for the functon?
should i replace them?

[wincher]

please be so kind and take al look to the unused connectors.
Thank you!



Seat belt timer, but without the timer?



defogger and heater ground?

[wincher]

Hi,

i need 2 bulb socket for the cluster board. one for the emergency drive an one for the park brake. they are bigger as the sockets for the illumination.


Are the 1/2" suitable? found them on reparts dot com in germany. one piece 9,22$

[rang-a-stang]

...
Im searching for the coolant recovery bottle and the windshild washer bottle. Both are missing .

have placed a advertisment in the "look for parts" too..

The exhaust is finished for now..

the complete exhaust is one piece welded, no clambing piece.

Maybe in the future a job to make it better and replace the front pipe or complete.

It took me a LOOOoooong time to find a good factory coolant tank. I used a cheap generic tank until I found the factory one I have now. The generic tank I had was from my local parts store and was about $8. It was ugly but it worked and it was on the shelf. There is nothing special about Coolant tanks; you can make them, too. I had a Ford Falcon about 15 years ago and I used a pickle jar as an overflow tank because the label was super cool and the green coolant was kinda pickle water color.

Great! (exhaust) If it works, don't fix it.

At page 1A-23 of the 1978 jeepshopmanuelcomplete is a chart for the distributors.
The 360 Automatic should have a 3231341 type.

I have a prestolite 322 0 (or 8?) 265. further number: 1 DJ4001F 18 6
ist this type ok?

Again, if it works, leave it alone. General consensus on here seems to be the Prestolite distributors suck...but if it is working, leave it alone. When/if it dies, then upgrade then. Many of us (me included) really like the Duraspark ignitions and distributors, others really like an HEI. Others yet like MSD stuff. If your distributor is working correctly, just leave it.

Did the 1L-26 Chart 5 for oil pressure gauge and hope someone can help me

Step 4: I have 6,7V on the right nut from the oil gauge
Step 5 with ground the left nut the oil needle moves to 60
Step 6: gronding the gauge pin terminal (purple wire) the needle goes to 60
and the fuel needle drops from full to 1/4! until this step the fuel gauge was full. "Repair open circuit in sende wire!
But The wire from the oil sender to the gauge is ok.

Step 7: ground from the battery was ok. (i did the further grounding on a screw on the steering column inside)
step 12: i did connect a jumper wire from cluser ground to body. no change.

What is to do after the Step 6 in my fall?

the green ohmic resistance is the reason for the 6.7 V to Pin 11 ignition to the Cluster connector.

Did a new case screw to ground the cluster

I *THINK* I see your problem. 6.7V is too high. Voltage on that pin should be about 5 Volts. That 5 volts comes from the inside of the Temperature gauge. Does your Temp gauge work at all? I had to bypass my Temp gauge and install my own 5 volt external rectifier. I did it in this thread years ago. Looks like my pictures stopped working. If you PM me your email address I can email them to you.
Rang-a-stang dash wiring issues and 5V rectifier install
YESSS!!! MAKE LOTS OF NEW GROUNDS!!! You will need them! I have a specific 3 wire ground harness on my gauge clutster. I grounded 3 places on the cluster and then ran that ground directly to the body with a quick disconnect in the middle.

Have found the fasten belt indicator lamp... not in use. but the bulb holder was with 2 wires (yellow and black) and without the contact for the board??
I wont to use this bulb holder for the emergency drive bulb because this is missing in the board.. the electrifica cames from the board. correct?

There are 2 different sized bulb holders. E-Drive signal does comes from the board. You say the board is missing? Or the holder that should be in the board is missing?

as showed weeks ago.
this green part is a ohmic resistance
with the clip it is adjustet to 780ohms and the red wirde goes to Wire 4red 18 to "E" of the round cluster connection. "E" is ignition.

any idea for the functon?
should i replace them?

I am going to guess someone was trying to fix the voltage rectifier and hacked that thing in there. I have never seen anything like that.

please be so kind and take al look to the unused connectors.
Thank you!

Seat belt timer, but without the timer?

defogger and heater ground?

I am not seeing these pictures on either of my laptops or my phone...

Hi,

i need 2 bulb socket for the cluster board. one for the emergency drive an one for the park brake. they are bigger as the sockets for the illumination.

Are the 1/2" suitable? found them on reparts dot com in germany. one piece 9,22$

I don't have any of the wired ones spare. I only have the little ones that get their signal from the board.

[wincher]

Thanks for your reply
Will read your gauge cluster report later..


Some infos about my cluster and wiring.


not so important: have found the seat belt lamp, the connector for the timer and the buzzer. But no switch on the belt ... how is the imput for the seat belt warning?


lm missing the Lamp E emergency drive and the park break socket is a little broken.


important
on the board was a soldered jumper wire between A3, I, and A2
my gauges was
fuel: totaly full
temp: totaly cold
oil pressure: total zero.
and this after the good ground.


At my opinion the jumper to I is wrong.

I have cut them of.




now my gauges are
fuel: total empty
temp: totaly hot
oil; zero


(A3 and A2 have to be connected, but not I...)

The pin 4 ground was soldered
the pin 3 (oil) and 1 (emergency) looks loose.
tommorow morning i will solve the problems hopefully
It is time to roll out from the garage and go to setting the carb and ignition and do a test drive for the transmission, kickdown and so on.

[wincher]

A2, A3 and I ... jumper wire??

[wincher]

circuit path was broken, someone has scratched it on porpuse
I have disconnected the red jumper wire

[wincher]

My "new" board.
Did the 5 V part as you can see on the heater board.
ground them on the heater ground (white wire)
12 V comes from the pin 15 (I)
the radio noise suppressor is ok,
the 5 V are for the A3 and A2.

The conductor path to A1 is ok.


Unfortunately I have not tested al with the multimeter...
Now I have
no oil pressure
no fuel
temp is full hot