Paint job

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  • Barry H
    232 I6
    • May 07, 2000
    • 64

    Paint job

    I would really love to repaint my '89 GW - I'm a little tired of the oxidation and peeling that seems to be a normal part of owning one of these trucks. The quotes I've gotten so far - after some casual inquiries - are heart-stopping.

    Does anyone know of a good shop in the greater Los Angeles area that could do a respectible job for less than $3,000? I don't need show quality, but the economy job the DSPO put on is lifting off. I think I remember someone talking about a $1,500 job from a place in Pacoima?

    Anyway, any tips or recommendations would be appreciated.

    Barry
  • Veepster
    350 Buick
    • May 14, 2000
    • 1366

    #2
    I will let you know in a few weeks how a $1000 paint job turned out.....it goes in the shop next week...and the shop is in San Diego....



    ------------------
    Peace.............BartG

    78 Chero
    360 2v, 400 QT with low
    almost drivable:
    4" skyjacker
    33x12.50 BFG KO's
    Thorley headers, 3" exhaust
    Infiniti power leather seats
    Peace.............BartG<br /><br />The Green Flash!<br /><br />360ci Custom 4v TBI<br />TH400, Parttime QT with low, TFI Upgrade<br />Edelbrock Performer Manifold,<br />4\" skyjacker susp & 3\" body lift<br />Rancho 9000\'s 33x12.50 BFG KO\'s <br />8\" American Racing Baja Rims<br />Thorley headers, 3\" exh, Dyno Max<br />Infiniti power leather seats<br />Billet shift knob by Millerluck<br />50%Luxury Car 50%Tractor<br /><a href=\"http://www.teamgodspeed.com\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.teamgodspeed.com</a>

    Comment

    • Barry H
      232 I6
      • May 07, 2000
      • 64

      #3
      Thanks, Bart. I'd love to find out. My brother lives in San Marcos, so if you're happy, I could probably get my truck down there.

      Barry

      Comment


      • #4
        For your info, I got quotes from Maaco ($1500), One Day ($800) and Earl Schieb ($700)on my FSJ. This is the range you can expect from the LA area "low cost" paint shops. The price will vary tremendously depending on what sort of quality you expect. For example, I told Maaco I wanted the rear flares welded and filled with lead and the roof stripped. Which is the major reason their quote was above the others. I asked Earl Schieb for the cheapest quote possible and they obliged.

        If you don't need showroom new quality Macco is just fine. My dad had his '90 Chero painted with Macco's top of the line job and 6 years later it still looks good. By the way, the factory paint peeled after four years.

        ------------------
        1977 WT Cherokee, 401V8, TH400, Quadra-trac, 4.09 gears.

        Comment

        • Veepster
          350 Buick
          • May 14, 2000
          • 1366

          #5
          to get a paint job... first you need a budget.

          and then find a shop that will work with you.

          I will do anything to stay in my budget, even doing some rust repair myself(thanks to everyone here for the guidance!) and I plan on doing some sanding if necessary......everyones definition of a 'good' paint job is different.....

          my goal was to find a shop that had some pride in their work and also realized I had a budget and we are going to work together to do the best we can.....something that has long been forgotten..CUSTOMER SERVICE..

          and I have been to about 10 other shops and have been treated like crap.....the last guy I went to on Monday told me it would be at least $3500 and would take somewhere between 2 weeks and 6 months...he said insurance stuff was a priority and I would have to wait until they had free time...Sure I want to give them my hard earned cash....NOT!

          as in any work you need done...set your standards and accept no less than I would give to a customer...good businesses are out there and I want to support them....



          ------------------
          Peace.............BartG

          78 Chero
          360 2v, 400 QT with low
          almost drivable:
          4" skyjacker
          33x12.50 BFG KO's
          Thorley headers, 3" exhaust
          Infiniti power leather seats
          Peace.............BartG<br /><br />The Green Flash!<br /><br />360ci Custom 4v TBI<br />TH400, Parttime QT with low, TFI Upgrade<br />Edelbrock Performer Manifold,<br />4\" skyjacker susp & 3\" body lift<br />Rancho 9000\'s 33x12.50 BFG KO\'s <br />8\" American Racing Baja Rims<br />Thorley headers, 3\" exh, Dyno Max<br />Infiniti power leather seats<br />Billet shift knob by Millerluck<br />50%Luxury Car 50%Tractor<br /><a href=\"http://www.teamgodspeed.com\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.teamgodspeed.com</a>

          Comment

          • Bernie
            232 I6
            • Apr 11, 2000
            • 92

            #6
            I will do anything to stay in my budget, even doing some rust repair myself(thanks to everyone here for the guidance!) and I plan on doing some sanding if necessary......everyones definition of a 'good' paint job is different.....

            Bart G. is right and as I have said before surface prep is everything. I have seen some really good Macco jobs. If you could do some of the work yourself like blocking it out and taking off the emblems and markers or what ever you don't want painted you can save a bunch of $$$$$$ remember all these guys in the quick paint shops want to do is paint and surface prep takes time. They use quality products but if what is underneath is crap it just won't last.

            ------------------
            To many Jeeps not enough money!!
            To many Jeeps not enough money!!

            Comment

            • JERRY88GW
              232 I6
              • Jun 09, 2000
              • 242

              #7
              I'm in the process of doing all the body work my self. Sanding, Bondo, Paint

              So, far I've done the front clip and now I'm working down the passenger side doors.

              I thought that I would only have to scuff up the existing, original, paint before I primed it. Wrong, that original paint is crap. It just peeled off right down to the metal. If you go to a paint shop and they spray over it. It's just going to peel right off with the crapy original paint underneath.

              To get even a decent paint job, you need to sand down the old paint and reprime it. Else, a couple hundered dollar paint job from macos will look nice, at first, but then will start to peel off within a year.

              [This message has been edited by JERRY88GW (edited August 24, 2000).]

              Comment

              • joe
                • Apr 28, 2000
                • 22392

                #8
                Barry, since you don't need "show quality" just do it yourself. A decent compressor will be about $300-$400, a HVLP gun about $70, misc hose dryer/filter etc $50. With the newer laquer(sp?) paints that dry really quick you can do it outside w/o fear of contamination (unless you live in the dust bowl). Just get you a decent book on auto painting. Painting isn't as hard as the shops like you to believe...actually it's rather easy if you take your time and don't try to get too much paint on all at once.
                The critical part is the prep work.
                You can at least do as good a job as Earl Shibes $700 "paint over deads bugs and everything" paint job and for less money and then still have a brand new air compressor for your shop to run air tools with
                -joe
                joe
                "Don't mind me. I'm just here for the alibi"

                Comment

                • Brenton
                  232 I6
                  • May 01, 2000
                  • 114

                  #9
                  I'll second that. My roomate and I picked up a Coleman compressor for $200 bucks from Costco. I borrowed an 'el cheapo' paint gun from a guy at work. I borrowed some more equipment from my dad. The next step was about $200 in primer, paint, reducers, hardeners, etc. I bought the GOOD stuff from NAPA at about $33 a quart, and they matched it to some Powder Coating I had done. This was my first time ever. I got a few tips from some people who have done this sort of thing. Then I prepped and sprayed. EVERYONE kept telling me how it was gonna come out bad, and how tough it is to get it right - blah, blah, yeah, yeah WHATEVER! If you can get a decent paint job from a rattle can, then you can paint your truck. Even the cheap $40 spray guns are more forgiving and easier to use than a can of Krylon.
                  Mine came out beautifully in the areas that were most important to me. I did have some issues with the inside roof of the cab. The final coat bubbled. I'm pretty sure I ended up with condensation on the roof that tubed me . Time for a headliner...
                  After this effort, I FULLY intend to paint my OWN truck. Just remember the three cardinal rules of painting - surface prep, surface prep, and surface prep. Everything else will work itself out. If you decide to go this route, then talk extensively to the guys you buy paint from. My brother buys his from Sherwin Williams, and he says those guys are FULL of tips. Every one of them have painted multiple cars kinda thing. If you're really on a budget, then do it yourself is the only route - and I GUARANTEE that you'll be happier with your own results than the results yull get from Earl Shibe's $700 paint the bugs in job. ALL they do is spray, they won't prep at that price. I have been impressed with most of the work I've seen come out of Maaco, as far as cookie cutter paint jobs go. But, yull wanna get they're mid-level job which is probably around the $1500 mark.

                  Another .02

                  Brenton

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                  • #10
                    Whatever paint job you get, let us know how it turned out and whether you would recommend the shop.

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