J3000 shackle reversal

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  • Scuba66J3000
    230 Tornado
    • Feb 06, 2007
    • 4

    J3000 shackle reversal

    I don't know if anyone out there has done this, but feel free to throw out any opinions or ideas. I've got a 66' J3000 that I've been working on and I'm getting ready to redo the front suspension. I'm planning to move the springs under the frame (like 74 and newer), use BJ's 4" lift springs and change the axle to a SOA setup ( I've already got the axle). I read an article in JP magazine where they used a YJ shackle reversal kit to move the springs under the frame and it seemed like a good way to do it. I'm just wondering if I should install the springs with the shackle in the front ( like the factory) or do the shackle reversal. The truck has the vigilante 327 and a PTO winch on the front so it's pretty front heavy. I'm a little worried about the truck nose diving with the lift and shackle reversal. I'm also looking for any info on changing the truck to power steering. Any help would be great.

    Scuba
  • adamsclarke
    258 I6
    • Jan 24, 2007
    • 279

    #2
    Here is the kit I will be using when I do my SOA...looks pretty complete

    Comment

    • Gambler68
      Rabble Rouser
      • Feb 29, 2004
      • 14083

      #3
      Originally posted by adamsclarke
      Here is the kit I will be using when I do my SOA...looks pretty complete
      http://www.tandjperformance.com/prod...lereversal.htm
      Nice find!!!! How much does it cost? For a Glad.
      1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
      1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
      The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
      Hunter S. Thompson .

      Comment

      • Scuba66J3000
        230 Tornado
        • Feb 06, 2007
        • 4

        #4
        That looks like a nice kit. I just talked to them and they gave me a price of 289$

        Comment

        • Gambler68
          Rabble Rouser
          • Feb 29, 2004
          • 14083

          #5
          Originally posted by Scuba66J3000
          That looks like a nice kit. I just talked to them and they gave me a price of 289$
          so have you researched SOA steering issues with the Ross box? I guess you could swap in a later saginaw maybe..
          1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
          1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
          The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
          Hunter S. Thompson .

          Comment

          • Headhoncho
            AMC 4 OH! 1
            • Oct 11, 2006
            • 3632

            #6
            I just called them too. I like the price but I'm not too thrilled that they're made of 3/16 steel. I don't know if I'd trust that with a full size jeep with 38's.


            JR
            [quote] "How does someone from Iran have a BJ's Offroad sticker but I can't seem to get one sent to New Jersey???!!!"


            1980 Honcho Sportside w/37's, 351c, 14" lift, D44high pinion w/Aussie, crossover steering, 14b w/detroit, np435, 205, 5.13's, 4whl discs, hb brakes, OBAir, rusted out cab,
            1966 mustang fastback
            '07 Dodge Charger 3.5

            Comment

            • Gambler68
              Rabble Rouser
              • Feb 29, 2004
              • 14083

              #7
              we have plenty of fab guys here. Just need to convince one to make this outta thicker stock
              1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
              1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
              The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
              Hunter S. Thompson .

              Comment

              • KaiserMan
                I got the Willys....
                • Jun 21, 2005
                • 8702

                #8
                That is a decent looking kit.
                Aren't all of the stock springs hangers and shackles made from 3/16" steel?
                Except for post mount rigs of course.
                Thomas Russell
                1987 Cherokee Laredo 2-Door 4.0/AW4
                1971 Gladiator
                J2000 Platform-Stake Dump 350/T18

                1970 Gladiator J3000 3407Z Camper Truck 350/T18
                1968 Wagoneer Custom 327/TH400

                Comment

                • adamsclarke
                  258 I6
                  • Jan 24, 2007
                  • 279

                  #9
                  Yeah...I plan on making a tie in between the 2 mounts. I am not too concerned about the 3/16 for the hanger...i am more concerned about making a beefy shackle mount at the rear of the spring.

                  Comment

                  • Gambler68
                    Rabble Rouser
                    • Feb 29, 2004
                    • 14083

                    #10
                    under $300 shipped is a decent price, but I'd like to pay cheaper just for metal fabbed pieces, if I go through all the trouble of relocating them, I don't want to use 40 year old springs. A kit that used at least normal Jtruck/wag springs that was half that price would sell alot I'd bet. Source your own bushings and get some Grade 8s at the hardware store, costs 24 bux for bolts/nuts alone.
                    1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
                    1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
                    The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
                    Hunter S. Thompson .

                    Comment

                    • Headhoncho
                      AMC 4 OH! 1
                      • Oct 11, 2006
                      • 3632

                      #11
                      Originally posted by KaiserMan
                      That is a decent looking kit.
                      Aren't all of the stock springs hangers and shackles made from 3/16" steel?
                      Except for post mount rigs of course.

                      I know they're close to that but I would guess the factory uses a denser, stronger type of steel. If I had a stock dd I probably wouldn't worry as much but anything off-road and I'd be worried when the suspension starts twisting. Not thick enough for me. 1/4" will have me sleeping soundly at night.


                      JR
                      [quote] "How does someone from Iran have a BJ's Offroad sticker but I can't seem to get one sent to New Jersey???!!!"


                      1980 Honcho Sportside w/37's, 351c, 14" lift, D44high pinion w/Aussie, crossover steering, 14b w/detroit, np435, 205, 5.13's, 4whl discs, hb brakes, OBAir, rusted out cab,
                      1966 mustang fastback
                      '07 Dodge Charger 3.5

                      Comment

                      • budojeepr
                        350 Buick
                        • Feb 02, 2006
                        • 933

                        #12
                        To answer your question more directly, see this page about shackle reversal pros and cons:
                        There are many advantages and distadvantages to shackle reversal. It has been a controversal topic since kits started appearing on the market. Before you order a kit understand the trade-offs.


                        I elected to go with the shackle in the front because I didn't like the idea of getting a shorter wheelbase (extending the nose) as I come off of big downhills (your axle moves back upon spring compression). Hit the brakes and it looks like you're driving a big stink-bug. Also with a shackle reversal you have to consider the effect on your front driveshaft under full stuff and full droop. On mine, the front driveshaft only had 3/8" travel over the whole range.

                        However, shackle reversals have a lot of pluses, too. One has to wonder why Jeep didn't just go with rear-mounted shackles in the first place...

                        ...power steering...maybe just go to full hydraulic?

                        Originally posted by Scuba66J3000
                        I don't know if anyone out there has done this, but feel free to throw out any opinions or ideas. I've got a 66' J3000 that I've been working on and I'm getting ready to redo the front suspension. I'm planning to move the springs under the frame (like 74 and newer), use BJ's 4" lift springs and change the axle to a SOA setup ( I've already got the axle). I read an article in JP magazine where they used a YJ shackle reversal kit to move the springs under the frame and it seemed like a good way to do it. I'm just wondering if I should install the springs with the shackle in the front ( like the factory) or do the shackle reversal. The truck has the vigilante 327 and a PTO winch on the front so it's pretty front heavy. I'm a little worried about the truck nose diving with the lift and shackle reversal. I'm also looking for any info on changing the truck to power steering. Any help would be great.

                        Scuba
                        Last edited by budojeepr; 02-16-2007, 11:50 AM.
                        Don't be yourself. Be someone a little nicer. -Mignon McLaughlin, journalist and author (1913-1983)

                        Comment

                        • Scuba66J3000
                          230 Tornado
                          • Feb 06, 2007
                          • 4

                          #13
                          I'm thinking I'll probably built my own brackets, probably 1/4" and I'll put a cross brace between the front brackets ( I'd rather go heavier then lighter). The fact that the axle moves back on compression and the nose dive thing is what has me concerned. The article in JP shows them welding tube through the frame for the rear shackle hanger. I'm not sure if I'm doing that or welding up a bracket.

                          Comment

                          • Tad
                            • Nov 30, 2001
                            • 17618

                            #14
                            I'm not sold yet.

                            I do love the bent drag link though
                            Be interesting to see how that works for a front post mount Jtruck.
                            I have seen a kit similar (looked like more lift), but I have never seen that rig move or run, still, it would be interesting.
                            All that bracketry is meant to mount off the side of the frame it appears, which would not be close to the perch spacing on a stock front post mount Jtruck (maybe you could reverse that stuff, not sure).
                            2000 Infinity QX4, 3.3L, MPFI, 4 speed auto, 2 speed Nissan tcase, Unibody, IFS front, 4 link rear solid axle with 255-70/16s

                            IFSJA WMS PROJECT
                            EARLY WAG LIFT SEARCH

                            ...Pay no attention to these heathen barbarians with their cutting torches and 8" lift kits!...
                            Self Inflicted Flesh Wound

                            Comment

                            • Gambler68
                              Rabble Rouser
                              • Feb 29, 2004
                              • 14083

                              #15
                              Originally posted by tadsal
                              I'm not sold yet.

                              I do love the bent drag link though
                              Be interesting to see how that works for a front post mount Jtruck.
                              I have seen a kit similar (looked like more lift), but I have never seen that rig move or run, still, it would be interesting.
                              All that bracketry is meant to mount off the side of the frame it appears, which would not be close to the perch spacing on a stock front post mount Jtruck (maybe you could reverse that stuff, not sure).
                              Right, yikes. Are there DPA's for those old boxes?

                              Now..could 1/4" brackets be made that would let one put newer (ie, not closed knuckle) WT 44's under the older rigs? That way your perches would line up, you get modern diffs. I guess then you pop into the expense of doing an SOA, but if you used GM HD44s that were already SOA...

                              considering the literal dearth of 70's diffs out there, and flat stock springs, this would open up the older rigs to take make use of that stuff.

                              I just don't know what you'd have to do for safe steering, not something I've looked into alot.
                              1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
                              1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
                              The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
                              Hunter S. Thompson .

                              Comment

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