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Finally for sale!
In case you haven't seen the build thread on these...
My upgraded "serehill" harness includes:
- 12 gauge GXL load wire
- 14 gauge GXL "trigger" wire
- Separate fused supply circuits for high and low beam
- Waterproof Hella 40 amp relays
- Delphi (Aptiv) terminals in relay socket and fuse holder
- Perma Seal Molex marine grade ring terminals
- Waterproof fuse holder with a spare fuse
- High temp "gray stripe" nylon wire loom
- Ceramic headlight connectors for superior heat resistance - good for stock or high wattage bulbs
- Plug and play - no cutting into stock wiring - can be reverted back to stock at any time
- I refer to it as a "terminal to terminal" build because I build each one from the ground up without splices on everything. I don't build with "pigtail" components
________
Here's the "just"
A headlight relay harness is perfect for the weak headlight electrical system in our jeeps.
It takes the load away from the switch and feeds the headlights the best possible voltage directly from the battery or alternator. This gives the brightest and most reliable output from the headlights possible.
It can be used for stock sealed beams or higher performing sealed beam conversions that utilize H4 bulbs. I'm running two 90w/130w H4 bulbs without an issue. The stock wiring would have melted at that wattage.
_________
Why?
A little over a year ago when I realized I needed my high beams on to see at night. I knew something was wrong. I also knew from a previous experience exactly what I needed. So I bought a harness on ebay. Complete JUNK! I ended up patching it together with wire and parts I had to make it work right. Shortly after that I joined IFSJA and very quickly discovered a thread started by "Serehill". Everyone has seen it. Its the one about a harness that promised to fix the very issues I and many others are/were having.
I was a little late to the game with his unfortunate passing but something he said stuck with me. His signature says "If you can't make it better why waste your time."
The light bulb went off. Why not MAKE a BETTER harness?
So here I am. A little while later and making what I feel is a superior harness at a very reasonable price.
__________
Price
Due to the high parts costs and time associated with making a quality harness my final price will be $100.
This includes domestic shipping including Alaska, Hawaii, Puerto Rico, Guam, and U.S. Virgin Islands
__________
Options?
- If you'd rather hard wire the relay signal wires I will delete the male plug that goes into the OEM female plug and include 3 butt connectors and heat shrink. $5 less making it $95 total.
This is more of a preference you decide when installing.
- Kit is made so you can conceal the "fuse holder" behind the passenger headlight for a stock look or have it in the engine bay for easy accessibility
- Also I left the power wires long enough to go to the battery or alternator. Whichever one you choose will work.
_______
Questions?
Please ask them!
Feel free to PM if you'd like to buy one
________
Pics?
Yes!
In case you haven't seen the build thread on these...
My upgraded "serehill" harness includes:
- 12 gauge GXL load wire
- 14 gauge GXL "trigger" wire
- Separate fused supply circuits for high and low beam
- Waterproof Hella 40 amp relays
- Delphi (Aptiv) terminals in relay socket and fuse holder
- Perma Seal Molex marine grade ring terminals
- Waterproof fuse holder with a spare fuse
- High temp "gray stripe" nylon wire loom
- Ceramic headlight connectors for superior heat resistance - good for stock or high wattage bulbs
- Plug and play - no cutting into stock wiring - can be reverted back to stock at any time
- I refer to it as a "terminal to terminal" build because I build each one from the ground up without splices on everything. I don't build with "pigtail" components
________
Here's the "just"
A headlight relay harness is perfect for the weak headlight electrical system in our jeeps.
It takes the load away from the switch and feeds the headlights the best possible voltage directly from the battery or alternator. This gives the brightest and most reliable output from the headlights possible.
It can be used for stock sealed beams or higher performing sealed beam conversions that utilize H4 bulbs. I'm running two 90w/130w H4 bulbs without an issue. The stock wiring would have melted at that wattage.
_________
Why?
A little over a year ago when I realized I needed my high beams on to see at night. I knew something was wrong. I also knew from a previous experience exactly what I needed. So I bought a harness on ebay. Complete JUNK! I ended up patching it together with wire and parts I had to make it work right. Shortly after that I joined IFSJA and very quickly discovered a thread started by "Serehill". Everyone has seen it. Its the one about a harness that promised to fix the very issues I and many others are/were having.
I was a little late to the game with his unfortunate passing but something he said stuck with me. His signature says "If you can't make it better why waste your time."
The light bulb went off. Why not MAKE a BETTER harness?
So here I am. A little while later and making what I feel is a superior harness at a very reasonable price.
__________
Price
Due to the high parts costs and time associated with making a quality harness my final price will be $100.
This includes domestic shipping including Alaska, Hawaii, Puerto Rico, Guam, and U.S. Virgin Islands
__________
Options?
- If you'd rather hard wire the relay signal wires I will delete the male plug that goes into the OEM female plug and include 3 butt connectors and heat shrink. $5 less making it $95 total.
This is more of a preference you decide when installing.
- Kit is made so you can conceal the "fuse holder" behind the passenger headlight for a stock look or have it in the engine bay for easy accessibility
- Also I left the power wires long enough to go to the battery or alternator. Whichever one you choose will work.
_______
Questions?
Please ask them!
Feel free to PM if you'd like to buy one
________
Pics?
Yes!
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