Motorcraft 2150 rebuild. pic heavy.

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  • Ristow
    • Jan 20, 2006
    • 17292

    Motorcraft 2150 rebuild. pic heavy.

    the subject. about to be fully stripped for a carb dip. not all i'm doing is necessary for a general freshen up job. this one is going in the dip,so it sheds all it's clothes.

    i'd like to start by saying DO NOT REMOVE ANY BUTTERFLY SCREWS! either throttle or choke. it ruins the threads in the shaft and the bolts cannot be properly tightened down again,risking engine damage! the throttle/choke shafts are rarely necessary to remove.



    use 2 wrenches on the fuel line,one on the line,another on the fitting,or both will turn.



    first,if you find what look like rivets holding the choke cap on,they are not. they are tamper proof screws. slot them with a dremel,and remove with a screwdriver.





    pull the choke link arm off.



    pull the top cover screws.



    and the top will pop off.



    pop the float retaing clip to pull the float.



    note the little damper spring.



    pulling the main jets is not mandatory. if you do remove,use a big enough screwdriver to span the jet,or you'll tear 'em up.

    remove the booster cluster screw.



    and gently wiggle it free.



    remove the accelerator check weight,and the ball under it.



    remove the accelerator pump screws and cover. negotiate the link rod from the cover arm.



    and remove the diaphragm. rip out the red umbrella in the pump bore too.



    remove the accelerator pump link from the throttle arm.



    on the bottom of the main body,remove the power valve cover screws,un-screw the power valve from the main body.





    remove the idle mixture screws.



    remove the choke housing screws.



    remove the circlip on the fast idle link. and separate the choke housing from the main body.



    remove the thermostat arm screw.



    remove the linkage assembly. there is a teflon bushing inside the bore to be removed as well.



    remove the choke pull-off solenoid.



    remove the aneroid bellows.






    the idle solenoid.



    remove the fuel inlet valve. again,wide screw driver.



    and re-assemble all the main parts loosly for dunking. i left the aneroid bellows off because i don't know if it'd survive the bath chemcals.

    Last edited by Ristow; 04-27-2009, 06:49 PM.
    Originally posted by Hankrod
    Ristows right.................again,


    Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
    ... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


    Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
    I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!

    It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...
  • red mistress
    304 AMC
    • Sep 13, 2007
    • 2293

    #2
    carb overhaul thread

    Great tech here...

    Ought to put this in archives when finished.


    Carb overhaul and tuning is a lost art...


    .
    67 Gladiator 15K J3000 AMC 327, PTO, 35" BFG's
    69 Jeepster 8701 convertible
    80 Honcho Sportside
    82 CJ-8 75K org SR decals
    82 Cheroeke Laredo 24K
    83 CJ-8 50K 401, ARB60's, F&R Winch, 38"
    84 CJ-7 38K Garnet Int., Jeep 8274 winch
    84 CJ-8 mud Scrambler
    87 J 20 36K smooth alum camper & boat rack.

    Comment

    • chr1s
      360 AMC
      • Jun 17, 2003
      • 3232

      #3
      Originally posted by red mistress
      Great tech here...

      Ought to put this in archives when finished.


      Carb overhaul and tuning is a lost art...


      .
      I agree with everything you just said!

      Nice write up Mr Ristow
      87 Grand Wagoneer -(UNDER CONSTRUCTION)- "TROLL SMASHER II"
      88 Grand Wagoneer- GONE
      "many miles away, there's a shadow on the door, of a cottage on the shore, of a dark Scottish lake......many miles away..."
      ________________________________________
      *** Current Jeep Status ***
      JEEP IS : . . .

      Comment

      • jaber
        Dragin Az
        • Oct 17, 2003
        • 8104

        #4
        Cant wait for the second part,this will get bookmarked for sure. I will be puting it to use real soon also.

        THANK YOU SIR!!!!!!!!
        Jeff

        '43 cj2a
        '51 Willys p/u
        '51 Willys Parkway Conversion
        '68 Panel Delivery
        '74 CJ5
        '75 J-20 Wrecker
        '75 J-20 Cummins service bed
        '77 J-10 p/u
        '79 Cherokee
        '88 Grand Wagoneer
        '98 Grand Cherokee

        Comment

        • andy d
          Shade Tree Shaman
          • May 06, 2000
          • 7205

          #5
          can't wait for the sequel , good job
          \'88 gwag,pure stock

          Comment

          • fulsizjeep
            Señor Jackhead
            • Aug 21, 2002
            • 22496

            #6
            Originally posted by red mistress
            Great tech here...

            Ought to put this in archives when finished.


            Carb overhaul and tuning is a lost art...
            big dittos...
            It is also not that difficult.
            Some think there is voodoo in there.
            Flint
            Ran when parked.
            http://jubileejeeps.org/quadratrac
            88 GW, 401/727/208, 5" lift, D44s/4.10s/locked up, 35s with a few Evil Twin & TT's Fabworks mods
            76 401 Wag, 77 401 Wag, 77 401 J20
            http://eviltwinfab.com http://www.ttsfabworks.com

            Comment

            • Ristow
              • Jan 20, 2006
              • 17292

              #7
              Originally posted by fulsizjeep
              It is also not that difficult.
              Some think there is voodoo in there.
              correct. simple carb,no reason to avoid rebuilding one. this is one i'm doing for a friend,thought some pics for the apprehensive would be helpful in saving some money over a rebuilt unit for some of us.

              tuning these is easy too,as they're for a stock configuration,really all that's needed is to properly set the choke/fast idle up,and set the idle mixture. i'll be getting into both on reassembly. these carbs in fact rarely need a full rebuild,but the correct powervalve is the most expensive piece in the kit,and make up the biggest cost in the kit,so you may as well get the kit and make it all fresh and anew.

              most faults are failed powervalve,accelerator pump diaphragm and/or choke cap,causing various operating problems. these are easy and inexpensive problems to fix.
              Originally posted by Hankrod
              Ristows right.................again,


              Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
              ... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


              Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
              I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!

              It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...

              Comment

              • AnnieL
                304 AMC
                • Nov 07, 2004
                • 1951

                #8
                What a ROCKIN' POST!!!!!!
                Well done, I'm totally impressed!
                ~AnnieL ~


                "I think, therefore I'm single.?

                Director: Mojave Desert Animal Rescue
                http://www.AnimalResQ.org


                ~'89 GW- "Harsh Mistress " BJ's 4 Inch Lift, 31" Bridgestone REVOS, Quick Disconnect Swaybars, Pro Comp shocks...and...crappy paint!




                Comment

                • Sian09
                  258 I6
                  • Apr 09, 2006
                  • 300

                  #9
                  I agree! A very good and detailed write-up. These are pretty simple and basic to rebuild even for my skill level. I'm thinking about taking off the 4bl on my J10 to go with the 2bl 2100 just cause its a lot easier to work on than the 4350! Can't wait for the next steps! Thanks Ristow!
                  '78 J10 Stock for now. 360, 44's F&R, T18, D20, TFI, 5 Slots, 31" ATs, Copper like color.

                  Comment

                  • twisted frame
                    350 Buick
                    • Apr 01, 2003
                    • 1040

                    #10
                    This is awesome! Thank you. I'll be following along and hope to apply the knowledge to a 4bbl soon. I did my 2100 not long ago and benefited from threads like these here.
                    Mike
                    1973 J4000, 360 2bbl, T18, Model 20,
                    44, 60-2, 32x11.5x15" on 15x8" CJ wagon wheels.
                    Now in black primer.

                    Comment

                    • DAHoyle
                      350 Buick
                      • Nov 25, 2005
                      • 999

                      #11
                      Great post Ristow, I Had my laptop on the bench when I did my 4350, and kept switching between your rebuild, and the FSM.

                      I pulled the carburetor apart over a year ago, and had pretty much decided to trash it, so I wasn't even sure all the parts were there. I did have one last rebuild kit for it, so I figured what the He11. I'd have never got it back together without those resources.

                      Now I have 2 rebuilt 4350's, and a parts spare, and it's sort of like my old M16 rifle. Can throw 3 of them disassembled in a box with a bunch of other junk, and I can reassemble them.

                      Not that I'm admitting to doing that. That would say terrible things about the clutter on my work bench.
                      67 M715
                      Cummins 4BT/Allison 54/Ford203/Ford205,
                      Front 89 HP60/Rear 81 GM D70HD
                      Discs all around/ 12 bolt H1 Rims
                      Build still very much in progress


                      78 Levi edition Honcho 360/T18/D20


                      Comment

                      • j20brett
                        360 AMC
                        • Jul 05, 2006
                        • 2963

                        #12
                        What is the function of the idle solenoid? Great write up by the way!
                        Kaiser - 1981 J20 115" WB - 5.3l/4l60E/np241c/3-link hp60 spooled/Leafs 14-bolt detroit/5.13's/40's

                        Build Thread

                        Fight Crime...Shoot Back.

                        ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

                        Comment

                        • Murphy
                          350 Buick
                          • Jul 15, 2007
                          • 894

                          #13
                          Originally posted by fulsizjeep
                          big dittos...
                          It is also not that difficult.
                          Some think there is voodoo in there.
                          Tritto

                          Archive material for sure.



                          Comment

                          • Belteshazzar
                            232 I6
                            • Dec 30, 2008
                            • 147

                            #14
                            great timing, this job is on my to-do list this week anyway.

                            mucho thanks for taking the time to chronicle the job.
                            2003 Maxima
                            2002 P71
                            1979 RX-7
                            1979 Wagoneer

                            Comment

                            • NVJEEPER
                              327 Rambler
                              • Feb 24, 2006
                              • 641

                              #15
                              Oi right on Mike

                              now i gotta tear mine apart cuz i miss seen' it jk
                              Damon
                              '85 Grand Wagoneer

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