'65 Gladiator 230

[rang-a-stang]

It doesn't sound like he knows exactly what they came out of....
He said '73, then '68, but neither of those would be wide track.

I'm kind of hoping they are front disc, that would be a sweet upgrade in the process. What year switched to disc brakes in the front?

I'm trying to get more info, but it sounds like they're semi-buried in a storage unit, so he wants me to tell him if I want them before he digs them out. I said I wanted to see them before I committed to it.

Hm. I thought all J-Trucks were WT but could be in left field on that. I also have no clue when they went to discs but will assume it was around 73 or 74?

[offthebeatenpath]

Hm. I thought all J-Trucks were WT but could be in left field on that. I also have no clue when they went to discs but will assume it was around 73 or 74?

I could be wrong about that WT thing, I'm no expert for sure.

[joe]

It doesn't sound like he knows exactly what they came out of....
He said '73, then '68, but neither of those would be wide track.

I'm kind of hoping they are front disc, that would be a sweet upgrade in the process. What year switched to disc brakes in the front?

I'm trying to get more info, but it sounds like they're semi-buried in a storage unit, so he wants me to tell him if I want them before he digs them out. I said I wanted to see them before I committed to it.

If prior to 74 the front will be closed knuckle, pass side diff. Rear diff will also be offset to pass side regardless if from behind a D20 or BWQT. Later74-79 open knuck front diffs will have the same diff placement as will the 74-79 rears.
If they're both from a J-truck and not a Wag they're WT. No closed knuckle front axle came with disc. Discs were std equip on 74 and later Wags but still optional on J-trucks and Chero's till 76. Don't get hung up on the disc thing. The drum brakes if brought back to OEM spec work just fine.

[offthebeatenpath]

If prior to 74 the front will be closed knuckle, pass side diff. Rear diff will also be offset to pass side regardless if from behind a D20 or BWQT. Later74-79 open knuck front diffs will have the same diff placement as will the 74-79 rears.
If they're both from a J-truck and not a Wag they're WT. No closed knuckle front axle came with disc. Discs were std equip on 74 and later Wags but still optional on J-trucks and Chero's till 76. Don't get hung up on the disc thing. The drum brakes if brought back to OEM spec work just fine.

Thanks Joe! That's exactly what I needed.

My truck is parked with the front end up on blocks right now in the driveway, is there an easy way to tell what ratio I've got in the diff without pulling the covers?

[SJTD]

Count how many turns of the driveshaft to turn the wheels once.

Make sure both fronts turn together. If one goes a little faster chock that one at a full rev and keep counting until the other one finishes its full rev.

[joe]

Your truck looks unmolested enough, you hold your mouth just right and wearing the right color shirt...you may get lucky but after 50 years don't bet on it.
Dana axles came with two alum tags mounted between two cover bolts. One tag will be the ratio tag and have a block of 4 numbers stamped into it. The first two will be the ring gear tooth count the other two will be the pinion tooth count.

[rws31]

Just ran across a local (10 min. away) ad for a pair of J-truck D44 axles with 4.27 gears..... asking $100.

What do I need to look at in order to evaluate these as candidates for an axle swap into my '65?
I'm hoping they're open knuckle, but the ad photos only show the rear.
What year did the axle configuration change?

I'm currently running a T98 4 speed with I assume a Dana 20 transfer case. So, that's a passenger side front diff, and centered rear I think.

Are you planning on really tall tires or an overdrive with those 4.27 gears. Or both. That's a lot of rpm. Will definitely give it some pulling power.

[offthebeatenpath]

Your truck looks unmolested enough, you hold your mouth just right and wearing the right color shirt...you may get lucky but after 50 years don't bet on it.
Dana axles came with two alum tags mounted between two cover bolts. One tag will be the ratio tag and have a block of 4 numbers stamped into it. The first two will be the ring gear tooth count the other two will be the pinion tooth count.

Well, looks like I picked the right shirt off the rack last night when I set out my clothes for today!!!
Under about 1/4" of grime, here's what I found- no axle swap needed for me. Though it does also explain why the engine revs as high as it does at 50 mph....

I might have to go backwards in gearing, or make some bigger shoes fit. Right now it's rolling on 265/75/16's. I'd love to get some 33x10's or 9's underneath it, but I think I'll need some suspension work to pull that off.
The first goal is to get it running and driving, suspension and tires can wait. Well, I probably oughtta put a shock on the passenger side rear where that empty space is

[rws31]

Nice. Just think of the money and time you just saved.

I'll bet it does rev at 50. Keep the gearing and go overdrive.

[offthebeatenpath]

What overdrive units are compatible with these old rigs?

Maybe I’ll just roll with 34’s or 35’s instead...

[offthebeatenpath]

Floor pans??

Getting ready to order some sheetmetal for the floor pans, and I've got a couple questions.
1 - So far, I've found BJ's, ZM Jeeps, and Classic 2 Current that sell pieces. Or, I could go pick up a sheet and muddle my way through myself. I can weld(ish), but I don't have a brake. Any other sources I should look at?

2 - BJ's states that the dimensions of their part is 22" x 18.5". My floors are rusty enough that one piece won't cover what I need. What's the best route to get the amount I need? Order 2 driver's side fronts and 2 passenger's side fronts, or order a front and rear (from a Waggy) for each side?

[jeepman1]

Nice truck! Good luck and listen to Joe. Love the helper too!

[rws31]

I am not to familiar with the older engines but don't think there is an overdrive or adapter to add overdrive trans to the older engines. Maybe someone else can let us both know.

Depends on what your intentions are with the future of the build. If you are set on all original, tall tires are your only option. Could go with a newer AMC engine and adapt to a 700r4 for overdrive. Me personally, newer engine/trans combo would be a no-brainer unless I had an absolute cream puff truck and was rare enough to be somewhat valuable. It really depends on what you want to do with it in the future.

[offthebeatenpath]

Well, it’s no cream puff that’s for sure. It’s a solid platform, but I’m not all in on a frame off restoration, I don’t have the time or funds for that.

It’s got a few good factory options, (factory radio, T98 4 speed, Dana 53 rear) but I don’t think it’s a rare bird. Or, if it is rare, it’s still not very desirable.

I’d mostly just like it to be drivable, with a little more aggressive stance.
I really don’t think (in my case) it’s worth the time to swap engine, drive train, axles and suspension just to keep the rhino grille. I’d be better off buying a ‘76+ as a platform.

On the other hand, with the 6-230, closed knuckle front axle, and no power steering, it’ll never be a nimble off-road machine either. The 4.27’s will help, but only so much. It’s got 16” wheels, but I don’t know if they’re factory or not, nothing else has been messed with at all.

If I can drive it to work, take it up into the mountains on some logging and forest service roads to go fishing and collect firewood, I’ll be stoked.

The stock leaf springs seem to be in decent shape, so I may just go with 1-2” lift blocks and some 33 or 34” mud terrain pizza cutters and call it good. Those Buckshot Mudders look about perfect for my goals.

[offthebeatenpath]

It has a 1 barrel intake with the Holley 1920 carb. I ordered a rebuild kit for it from http://www.carburetor-parts.com a super helpful website with a ton of YouTube videos too.

The truck was having a lot of trouble idling at all, which is why I ordered the kit. After I ordered the kit, I watched one of his videos where he mentions as a side note that a lot of electric in line fuel pumps have too much pressure for carbs like this and cause them to run rough. I think that’s a part of my problem, so I’ll have to add a fuel pressure regulator in somewhere.

It also has the old school oil bath air filter on it, which I’ll either swap out or alter to accept a round paper filter.





Overall, the carb is in decent shape, but I may still have some issues. The brass throttle plate shaft is worn pretty good and has a lot of slop in the bushings. I may try to re-bush it to save some coin for now.

I’ve been looking at my options for carbs and intakes (apparently there’s a 2bbl intake for the 230 out there too), and ran across this. Anybody have any thoughts on this?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223468125607