Yet another diesel conversion project (YADC)

[budojeepr]

... There are only a couple wires that you need. I pulled off the connector at the bulkhead and removed all unnecessary wires at the connector. More than half of those wires can be eliminated.

Good idea.

It's looking much cleaner in there now that the vacuum brake booster is gone. I've almost got my hydroboost ready to install. Just need to shorten the lever/pushrod a bit. Any recommendations?

Thanks!

[budojeepr]

Hydroboost conversion done

Hydroboost is modified for assembly...photos hosted courtesy of Photobucket...

Original hydroboost unit from Suburban:


Modification to mounting bracket - punched out studs and enlarged holes to 7/16". Also added four 7/16" holes for the Jeep spacer:


Detail of pushrod modification. I used the original Jeep end (the Suburban's link end had too big of a hole for the brake pedal's pin). I cut off the 'burb pushrod, threaded it with a 3/8-16 die, and did the same with the Jeep link end. Then I cut off a coupling nut from Ace Hardware (it was about 1/2" too long) and threaded them together. After test-fitting, I used Loctite (blue, medium-strength) to hold them together.

Total length from hydroboost mounting bracket: 5-3/16".


Test fit, outside:


Test fit, inside (note: those four nuts are a PITA):


So now, I'll clean it all up, paint it nicely, and reassemble. Once the engine is in, I'll just use the original 'burb hoses to make it work. I think they'll reach...

Hopefully I'll never have to touch it again.

[budojeepr]

Question for diesel swap experts

I'm getting close to the "put the engine in" stage. However, I'm also working toward converting to turbo from N/A. Got all the manifolds, now I need to get the turbo and pan.

DieselSJ, did you run a crossover pipe from driver's to passenger side exhaust?

If so, did it result in radiator clearance issues and/or transfer case crossmember location issues?

Thanks!

[budojeepr]

...DieselSJ, did you run a crossover pipe from driver's to passenger side exhaust?

If so, did it result in radiator clearance issues and/or transfer case crossmember location issues?

Aha.

http://www.chaserace.com/exhaust/exhaustwagoneer.html

[DieselSJ]

Aha.

http://www.chaserace.com/exhaust/exhaustwagoneer.html

Yup.

[budojeepr]

Another test fit!

This time with transmission attached.

The crossmember location works. I'll have to make some slight mods to use the GM adapter with the Jeep crossmember, but it seems easy so far. I did a test-fit with the transfer case...I'll probably have to drill one hole in the adapter to work with the Jeep NP208 clocking.

The steering shaft is dictating how high I can mount the engine in the bay; I'll do a weight-on test to see if that height allows the pan to clear the differential when the suspension flexes. Looks ok right now, but better safe than sorry.

I may be able to salvage the stock heater box, but it'll be close. That exhaust manifold gets really close, and the turbo outlet looks like it'll go right through the box.

Pics (via Photobucket):

[DieselSJ]

Your engine looks extremely low in your chassis. Check the clearance between your oil filter and the yoke on your front diff. My engine sits higher than yours and I have less than 1" clearance between the yoke and the filter when the axle is on the snubbers (and trust me, with the weight of the diesel, the snubbers are getting used daily!!!).

What turbo are you using? If you are using a stock GM turbo with the outlet pointing down, you ***MIGHT*** be able to keep the stock heat/AC. There was no way mine was going to work with the MHI turbo.

[budojeepr]

Your engine looks extremely low in your chassis. Check the clearance between your oil filter and the yoke on your front diff. My engine sits higher than yours and I have less than 1" clearance between the yoke and the filter when the axle is on the snubbers (and trust me, with the weight of the diesel, the snubbers are getting used daily!!!).

Thanks for looking. I didn't take an "engine in bay" shot last night. My memory seems to show it at about where yours is. I'll check. Moving the engine up or forward results in steering shaft interference. I hope I don't get in too much of a bind.

We lose that much clearance?? My snubbers are about 8 to 10 inches above the axle right now. Time to seriously consider spring upgrades before I drop the engine on them.

What turbo are you using? If you are using a stock GM turbo with the outlet pointing down, you ***MIGHT*** be able to keep the stock heat/AC. There was no way mine was going to work with the MHI turbo.

I'm trying to source a GM turbo. I'm not planning on running a lot of boost, so I'm not going to be that picky about getting a GM-8 over a -5 or -3. I have a T3 Garrett off of a Volvo (VW project) that I was using as a model to try to get an idea of clearances. Like yours, the T3 exhausts straight out the back - no way that would work.

Again, thanks for looking!

[DieselSJ]

Look at the pic earlier in this thread that shows one of my mounts. The lower mount hole in the block is about even with the top of the frame. I did have to trim my driver's side mount to clear the steering shaft.

[budojeepr]

Look at the pic earlier in this thread that shows one of my mounts. The lower mount hole in the block is about even with the top of the frame. I did have to trim my driver's side mount to clear the steering shaft.

I see. The problem lies in the difference between the Novak mounts and the Advance Adapters (?) you used. AA allows you to put the engine higher than the Novak units.




I may have to return my Novak mounts and go get AA ones.

[edit]I emailed Novak with a picture and asked about it, and - no lie - the support guy called me back within 5 minutes! He had a couple suggestions, which I'll try, and if this doesn't work he'll exchange these new style mounts with the old-style mounts, which is actually what I used on the 454. We'll see...[/edit]

[budojeepr]

Proposed mount fix

Here's what I'm thinking about doing for this motor mount:



It's a piece of 1/4" wall rectangular tubing, notched to clear the steering shaft, that spaces the Novak adapter away from the frame rail.

The only problem I see with it is making sure it's securely fastened to the frame. I can use the notched area to drill a hole for a rosette weld; two of the shock mount bolts will go through one wall; and I'll put a flange across the bottom, spanning the frame too.

What say ye?

[Stuka]

Did the GM exhaust go under the oil pan like that? It may be an illusion, but looks like the drive shaft will hit it with articulation?

[DieselSJ]

Did the GM exhaust go under the oil pan like that? It may be an illusion, but looks like the drive shaft will hit it with articulation?

The stock GM exhaust went around the back of the pan. They didn't need to worry about driveshaft clearance because those trucks were all IFS. There wasn't room in my chassis to route it the stock way (or I would have just used a stock GM crossover). The exhaust guy did a great job of keeping things clear of the driveshaft and diff. I cycled the suspension and it clears...at least in the garage - we'll see what happens if it hits the trails.

[budojeepr]

Novak mounts

Eric at Novak is sending me a new set of "classic" mounts today. I don't even have to return mine first! But they're boxed and waiting for the paperwork...

Lemme tell ya, Novak has been a joy to work with on this. Give 'em a try if you're converting something.

I guess I'll work on making the transmission/transfer case adapter work, make some fuel lines, play with the fuel filler, theorize about strengthening the frame, order a shifter, order a gauge, order a differential gear/rebuild kit, find a turbo and oil lines and oil pan, do the wiring (start, glow plug, torque converter lockup).

...sigh. Nothing to do. I'm bored.

[DieselSJ]

This should help with your glow plug wiring...