Motorcraft 2150 rebuild. pic heavy.

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  • JeepBountyHunter
    GrimJeeperReaper
    • Jul 08, 2002
    • 10250

    #16
    This is good Mike, being that your a moderator here also, you'll be able to clean up this post so it can be archived...
    I'll be referring to this when I do both of mine..well and I have like four other's sitting around..
    Thanks
    Aaron
    1992 Cherokee XJ Laredo

    Comment

    • Lindel
      Perfesser of Jeepology
      • Jun 15, 2000
      • 9205

      #17
      One other thing, when you remove the idle mixture screws, look them over to make sure the tips aren't distorted because Bruno mistook them for head bolts.

      No offense to any Bruno on the site intended...

      If the tips are damaged, put new ones on your list.
      Jeep Grounds
      RRV Homepage
      Texas Full Size Jeep Association
      1987 Grand Wagoneer
      AMC 360/TF727/NP229
      1999 Wrangler Sport
      4.0L/AX-15/NV231


      ?Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction? by Ronald Reagan.


      Formerly of DFW/Gun Barrel City, TX - eventually to return...

      Comment

      • mattmopar440
        AMC 4 OH! 1
        • May 17, 2007
        • 4092

        #18
        What is that going on ???the Grand wag or you just doing it for fun
        87' Grand Wagoneer
        401/727/229, Currently:RUNNING
        84 J10/20 hybrid 258/727/208 Daily Driver
        80' J10 4BT/AX-15/208
        74' J10 Go Grabber Green Sold
        Originally posted by Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81
        Inferior Chevy

        Comment

        • GWChris
          304 AMC
          • Jan 22, 2005
          • 1798

          #19
          Very nice job - should be a big help, especially given the number of 2150 rebuild questions that have come up of late.

          Comment

          • HellCreek
            232 I6
            • Jun 11, 2007
            • 179

            #20
            Originally posted by j20brett
            What is the function of the idle solenoid? Great write up by the way!
            The idle solenoid is energized (pops out) when the ignition key is turned on. It is set for the proper idle RPM. When you turn the key off, the solenoid pops back in and closes the throttle plate to prevent the engine from dieseling (running on).

            Nice write-up, Ristow.

            Comment

            • KyooMac
              258 I6
              • Oct 26, 2006
              • 464

              #21
              Great write up and thanks so much for the pictures.

              Comment

              • Ristow
                • Jan 20, 2006
                • 17292

                #22
                out of the dip. looks pretty good. it is once again fully dis-assembled.



                once clean,it is inspected. and on this one a crack is found that was previously hidden under the grunge.



                so what does this mean? well,it means your carb isn't rebuildable. i however have a stockpile of these,so i went and got another carb body and cleaned it up in the parts washer.

                once the body checks out all passages are blown out,both body and booster assembly. low pressure here-30lbs will do. too high can force passage plugs out.



                also,be sure the air bleeds are clear,as shown. 2 on the rear directly above the bronze tubes.



                2 in the center front. some assemblies have them on the sides as well,where the screwdriver is pointing.



                ready for assembly. i like to give all the bleeds and jetways a shot of this.



                basically seafoam in an aerosol can. good stuff for carbs.
                Originally posted by Hankrod
                Ristows right.................again,


                Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
                ... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


                Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
                I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!

                It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...

                Comment

                • j20brett
                  360 AMC
                  • Jul 05, 2006
                  • 2963

                  #23
                  Originally posted by HellCreek
                  The idle solenoid is energized (pops out) when the ignition key is turned on. It is set for the proper idle RPM. When you turn the key off, the solenoid pops back in and closes the throttle plate to prevent the engine from dieseling (running on).

                  Nice write-up, Ristow.
                  Ah that makes sense. Thank you!

                  Edit: What do you dip it in? Ive got a bucket of chemtool (1 gallon)...would this work?
                  Last edited by j20brett; 04-27-2009, 03:44 PM.
                  Kaiser - 1981 J20 115" WB - 5.3l/4l60E/np241c/3-link hp60 spooled/Leafs 14-bolt detroit/5.13's/40's

                  Build Thread

                  Fight Crime...Shoot Back.

                  ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

                  Comment

                  • Ristow
                    • Jan 20, 2006
                    • 17292

                    #24
                    carb dip. 5 gallon pail. kinda spendy.
                    Originally posted by Hankrod
                    Ristows right.................again,


                    Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
                    ... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


                    Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
                    I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!

                    It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...

                    Comment

                    • Ristow
                      • Jan 20, 2006
                      • 17292

                      #25
                      re-assembly. first off. NEVER use any type of tube style sealant on a carb. RTV and the likes. it squeezes out and into the air/fuel channels,plugging them. if you have to use it to prevent leaks,you need a new carb.

                      i grease all the gaskets on these carbs.

                      start by putting the red umbrella valve into the center hole of the accellerator pump bore. pull the bump on the tail through the body wit a pliers.



                      engage the acc. pump rod into the middle hole on the throttle arm.



                      put the new pump diaphragm into the pump cover. most late carbs use the long shaft diaphragm. this is how it all goes together.....




                      ...but first,engage the other end of the pump rod into the outer hole of the cover arm.



                      and tighten all 4 bolts as you hold it together.



                      next,put the new gasket on the new powervalve,and thread it into the main body,tighten firmly.





                      the cover goes on with fitting facing front. now,verify the cover holds vacuum,by attaching a hose and applying vacuum with a vacuum pump,or by sucking on the hose,and seeing if it holds vacuum. it must hold vacuum. if not,check the power valve gasket for proper placement.


                      also,now the 2 idle mix screws go in,and set to 3 turns out each.



                      the acc. pump check ball,and weight go into the center cluster hole. the gasket is in place too. like so.



                      but before the weight is dropped in,put the booster cluster into position. wiggle it to get the gasket in position. then drop the weight in.



                      the center screw goes in,with the flat tin shroud. it will have to be wiggled a bit to get the weight to go inside it. tighten it down firmly.

                      next the inlet valve. with either the shroud which doubles as gasket,or just a gasket,depending on carb.





                      here,the main jets are installed to,as well as boosters and inlet valve.




                      hook the inlet needle onto the float. drop into position into the inlet valve.



                      note long damper spring. if yours is missing don't worry about it. snap the wire retainer into the groove on the inlet valve body.



                      measure float height. 9/16" from tip of float to top of main body,with the needle pushed down (closed).



                      install the 2 parts of the aneroid bellows valve,with new gaskets.

                      Last edited by Ristow; 04-27-2009, 06:52 PM.
                      Originally posted by Hankrod
                      Ristows right.................again,


                      Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
                      ... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


                      Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
                      I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!

                      It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...

                      Comment

                      • AnnieL
                        304 AMC
                        • Nov 07, 2004
                        • 1951

                        #26
                        This has got to be one of THE coolest write ups I have ever read!
                        ~AnnieL ~


                        "I think, therefore I'm single.?

                        Director: Mojave Desert Animal Rescue
                        http://www.AnimalResQ.org


                        ~'89 GW- "Harsh Mistress " BJ's 4 Inch Lift, 31" Bridgestone REVOS, Quick Disconnect Swaybars, Pro Comp shocks...and...crappy paint!




                        Comment

                        • Ristow
                          • Jan 20, 2006
                          • 17292

                          #27
                          reassemble the choke. wrap the teflon sleeve around the choke spindle,and push through choke body. use pic for reference.



                          arrange the linkages as shown. put the gasket in place as shown.



                          bolt up to the main body,making sure the gasket stays in place. hook up the lower fast idle link as shown,and install the c-clip.



                          engage the pull-off link with the pull-off solenoid,and bolt it to the body.



                          hook up the vacuum line.



                          grease the top gasket,put in place,making sure it's positioned correctly.



                          put top cover on,install the 6 bolts,tighten sequentially. then,install the choke door link,and the fork in the choke assembly the cap engages. the linkage goes in the outer hole on the upper link.

                          first,engage the lower part of the link,then put the upper link onto the rod,then put on the door shaft and tighten screw.



                          the lower part goes here. note the white plastic sealing piece on the rod.



                          all assembled.



                          put cover gasket in place,and cover,engaging spring in the fork slot.





                          put idle solenoid on. i don't use these myself,but this carb is going to an emissions testing area,so i put it back on.



                          next we set the choke/fast idle up,and it's ready for install.
                          Originally posted by Hankrod
                          Ristows right.................again,


                          Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
                          ... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


                          Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
                          I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!

                          It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...

                          Comment

                          • Ristow
                            • Jan 20, 2006
                            • 17292

                            #28
                            choke set up. do this cold,if on the vehicle. open the throttle to close the choke.



                            you can use a vacuum pump on the pull off solenoid,or if you don't have on,just push the piston in.



                            initial choke clearance. calls for .118" clearance between the lower choke plate and body.i used a 3mm allen. if you have a icrometer,measure a drill bit,or allen wrench to find a suitable size to measure with.

                            to adjust,put the fast idle screw on the top step as shown. that screw is also how fast idle rpm is adjusted.



                            measure by sliding the bit between the lower edge of the choke butterfly,and body wall. adjust by turning screw on back of vacuum solenoid.







                            next is fast idle cam adjustment. calls for .076". i used a 1/16" allen. again measured between lower plate and wall. this adjustment ensures the carb comes off the top cam when the throttle is blipped after starting.

                            the fast idle cam is placed on the 2nd step mark as shown for this adjustment.





                            adjust via this screw.




                            open the throttle fully,verify the choke plate opens a generous amount,if not,bend tab shown to adjust. this is so if flooded the choke is forced open to clear the fuel.






                            idle speed. done with choke plate fully opened so the fast idle cam is NOT engaged.

                            if you are using the idle solenoid,this screw is adjusted to just slightly open.

                            if you are NOT using an idle solenoid. this is your idle speed adjuster.



                            if you are using the idle solenoid,the solenoid is energized,and the idle speed is adjusted here.




                            idle,and fast idle speeds will be on the emissions sticker under the hood of your particular vehicle.

                            if,after ALL adjustments are done,on cold start,after the throttle is depressed and released to set the choke,the engine starts and then dies,the choke pull-off is opening the choke too far. likewise,if it runs like it's flooding out,it's closed too far.
                            Last edited by Ristow; 04-28-2009, 01:43 PM.
                            Originally posted by Hankrod
                            Ristows right.................again,


                            Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
                            ... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


                            Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
                            I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!

                            It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...

                            Comment

                            • scantar
                              AMC 4 OH! 1
                              • Jul 16, 2005
                              • 4296

                              #29
                              I've been waiting 3 years and 6 Jeeps for this Awesome write-up Mike! Thanks!!


                              Mods need to superglue, rivet and weld this thing right to the top of the Tech channel!


                              Steve
                              '76 Waggy, TH400, Quadratrac and a fourOH!one Sold

                              My other car is a Viner Pro Team...no wait, my other car is a Masi Speciale...nonono, my other car is a Bianchi 928SL

                              Comment

                              • Lindel
                                Perfesser of Jeepology
                                • Jun 15, 2000
                                • 9205

                                #30
                                Steve, I'll be moving it to the archives this evening. You'll be able to find it there when ever you need it.
                                Jeep Grounds
                                RRV Homepage
                                Texas Full Size Jeep Association
                                1987 Grand Wagoneer
                                AMC 360/TF727/NP229
                                1999 Wrangler Sport
                                4.0L/AX-15/NV231


                                ?Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction? by Ronald Reagan.


                                Formerly of DFW/Gun Barrel City, TX - eventually to return...

                                Comment

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