2009 GEP 6.5 swap

[BA_051]

So I pulled the GP's and it cranks fast... Cracked the injector lines too... But after almost an hour, still not a drop to the injectors... I don't know what else to do with this stupid thing... It was running when it was pulled....

[BA_051]

Is ALIVE!!! Used some wd40 to keep it running and after 5 mins I got squirts out of the injectors.... Tightened it up and now it runs on its own!!

[DieselSJ]

Local shop wants $800-1100 to rebuild it... can get reman online for $500...

Glad you got it going!

Careful on rebuilds - it is the pump heads that take a crap and a $500 rebuild isn't going to replace the head.

And thank you for using the "correct" starting fluid for a diesel.

[Mikel]

Congratulations! I can't wait to see the finished product.

[BA_051]

WD40 is awesome... I love using that stuff and keep a spray bottle of it in the truck all the time...

I hit a snag when trying to fit my radiator in... I figured I would try and route the inlet and outlet to the opposite sides so I could use my stock aluminum (ebay special 5 years ago) but it just doesnt have the room between the fan and steering gearbox...

So I bought a Griffin universal aluminum crossflow radiator with GM inlet and outlet... 1.5" inlet, 1.75" outlet, 27.5" wide and 19" tall, $156 to my door. Should be getting it delivered on tuesday, and wednesdays and thursdays are my days off!

All I have left is mount the radiator, put the face back on, and go over everything to make sure its tight and ready to go... Oh and an air cleaner... It has the 2 bolts on top with the "no step" duct so I can run a cone type air cleaner or if there is a 14 or 16" round air cleaner that will bolt up, I could use that...

[BA_051]

Gah! I didnt realize how cheap hx35's or hx40's are... now I want to turbo my 6.5... would just need a J code intake and those are $250-$300 in good shape I can get the turbo cheaper than the blasted intake manifold...

[DieselSJ]

Gah! I didnt realize how cheap hx35's or hx40's are... now I want to turbo my 6.5... would just need a J code intake and those are $250-$300 in good shape I can get the turbo cheaper than the blasted intake manifold...

''

Expletive Deleted!Expletive Deleted!Expletive Deleted!? Intakes are cheap. $75 on ebay. Any 6.2 or 6.5 intake will work. Avoid the Hummer intakes (they are $125 and up) because the bolt patter on top isn't the same as the truck version.

HX35. The 40 is way too big unless you are doing some serious mods to your pump. Even the 35 is overkill if you have a stock compression block. 20:1 doesn't like a ton of boost - 12 psi max. You can do that all day with a GM8 and mechanical wastegate control. Higher boost and you will push the head gaskets out.

[BA_051]

I have the military intake on it... The bolts are perpendicular to the heads so I can't use the rear mounted turbo. I have to use the side mount. I was looking for the j code turbo intakes and there were none below $200 (that weren't missing bolt ears and what not)... I will look again when I have some cash laying around...

I am only wanting 10-12, maybe 15 psi of boost so I was just looking into what turbo I can run... The hx35's are Half the price of the gm8's...

And how would a 6.2 manifold work? It has the round air cleaner mount with just 2 bolts, vs the turbos are 6 bolts...

Yep, cheapest upper+lower intake vin f is $250 plus shipping...

[DieselSJ]

Guys use the 6.2 either with the Banks plenum or with the plenum from Peninsular (not sure if they still make it though). I originally had a H1 intake with the Banks plenum and just had it rotate 90 degrees. Peninsular also makes a nice hat for the 6.5 intake that is a lot nicer than the factory unit.

http://www.peninsulardiesel.com/WP-PENTEST/?wpsc-product=2335520-air-intake-adaptor

Then you just need to find a standard 6.5 lower and not worry about the plenum. Seriously I don't know what is going on with Ebay sellers right now but those prices are insane. I got my 6.5 lower for $55.

Be patient - they will come back down in price. Also keep in mind that the stock 6.5 turbo mounting location means that you lose the heater box because that is where the exhaust is going to be.

[BA_051]

Well, my new radiator is in. Here are pics of the old vs new...
The original Ebay, AMC aluminum rad...


The new crossflow without mounts:


And I cut the mounts off the ebay one and alumiwelded to the new one.
I had to cut 1" off the width of the old mounts because the radiator itself is 2" wider and those ears would interfere with the battery tray and washer bottle... Either way, Its bolted in, with 1/8" to maybe 3/16" gap between the radiator and the core support. It fits better than the original OEM radiator!

[BA_051]

Well it's almost ready to go! I only have 30" of exhaust on it, so it's loud... Very loud... The tstat is a 195 (oem) and it sits at 190-195 when driving... It's totally awesome... Got a 4" k&n air filter and it was tight over the intake duct but it works... I'll get pics of it done when I get the chance.

Then I'll finish the exhaust with 3" stacks over the next couple weeks...

Next upgrade... Eaton m112 supercharger... Comes with a 3" 8 rib pulley, exactly the size I need for the 6.5 to run 10-12 lbs of boost... Only need to make a base plate to tig weld to the intake... But it's going to be a while, unless someone has an M112 laying around for cheap....

[BA_051]

Well I thought it may have been from just sitting for a few months, but it turns out cylinder 1 has low compression... It blows blue smoke out the drivers side bad when revved or under load...

The guy I bought it from swore it was a good motor and didn't smoke, but refuses to do anything about it... I'm so glad I payed through PayPal so I have buyer protection... I kept the emails saying it was a good motor... Not sure where to go from here... Guess I'll pull the intake and valve cover and hopefully it's just a broken plastic retainer... If it's more serious than that, it's going to get yanked out and I will get my money back or a new motor...

For those looking at getting GEP diesels from the military hmmwv's, I would be leery of getting them from CBR Metalworks in North Carolina... He will gladly take your money and sell you a "good motor" that isn't good...

[BA_051]

Well it had a bent pushrod, so at least it was an easy fix. It's running strong now. Just need to put on some exhaust and then it will be road worthy...

[BA_051]

Mufflers are on, Walker soundFX 18229, 3in in and out. I didnt want anything to loud since I will be putting stacks on it eventually. Dual 3" should be more than adequate for the 6.5 NA, and even up to 10-12lbs of boost. Ill get pics the next time I go outside... Its 104 right now...

It really doesnt smoke either, even at WOT. Very little black smoke... I wonder if i can turn the fuel up about 1/8 turn and see what it does...

[BA_051]

Well after 2 weeks of running, my coolant seems to be disappearing and my coolant is very very dark brown, almost black... Its not oil and after sitting over night, it settle to the bottom of the coolant bottle...

I have no oil in my coolant, and no coolant in my oil... It has to be combustion gasses entering my coolant somehow, but when I start it cold in the morning, the hoses stay soft, even collapse a little when I rev it...

Guess Ill be pulling the heads in a few days to make sure everything is ok.