If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Well, my first car painting project, yes. I've been doing welding and resto work (mostly on my Jeep) for years, but this is the first time I'll actually be doing any kind of actual finish work. I have a decent gun and patience. I plan to practice a bit on a scrap fender, and in truth I don't need show-car perfection. I just want the experience and a better looking Jeep.
I've also done lots of woodworking, staining and finishing in that realm. I know it's not the same.
Here's a weird question: is there any reason I can't brush on an epoxy primer? I have a few spots where there's rust that also need filler, so was thinking of taking it all down to metal, get rid of all the rust, (one area where a fender flare needs some welding/reconstruction), then brush it with epoxy primer, then do filler and all the rest.
Here's a weird question: is there any reason I can't brush on an epoxy primer? I have a few spots where there's rust that also need filler, so was thinking of taking it all down to metal, get rid of all the rust, (one area where a fender flare needs some welding/reconstruction), then brush it with epoxy primer, then do filler and all the rest.
Not at all, brush away.
FSJ Hybrid build thread: http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ad.php?t=43332
We are Borg, but we don't know it yet.
We are being assimilated but we don't know it yet.
Resistance is not futile yet.
Are you and your children connected yet?
I've heard it's bad news to let cured body filler sit for a long time before being topcoated because it can absorb moisture. Is there truth to that, and is it true even if the car sits in a garage in a relatively dry environment?
I plan to do body work over a few months and then finally topcoat some time in the summer. I suppose I could do my filler, then spray everything again with epoxy before letting it sit too long.
Well, my first car painting project, yes. I've been doing welding and resto work (mostly on my Jeep) for years, but this is the first time I'll actually be doing any kind of actual finish work. I have a decent gun and patience. I plan to practice a bit on a scrap fender, and in truth I don't need show-car perfection. I just want the experience and a better looking Jeep.
I've also done lots of woodworking, staining and finishing in that realm. I know it's not the same.
I like your response, it is enthusiastic and realistic.
I would also recommend practice, perhaps on more than just a fender. Materials are expensive, make the most of your practices time as possible. As you are practicing focus on developing a
FSJ Hybrid build thread: http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ad.php?t=43332
We are Borg, but we don't know it yet.
We are being assimilated but we don't know it yet.
Resistance is not futile yet.
Are you and your children connected yet?
I've heard it's bad news to let cured body filler sit for a long time before being topcoated because it can absorb moisture. Is there truth to that, and is it true even if the car sits in a garage in a relatively dry environment?
I plan to do body work over a few months and then finally topcoat some time in the summer. I suppose I could do my filler, then spray everything again with epoxy before letting it sit too long.
Polyester body filler will absorb moisture. I have seen metal under it rust because water found its way to it. If you need to store the project for a while don
FSJ Hybrid build thread: http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ad.php?t=43332
We are Borg, but we don't know it yet.
We are being assimilated but we don't know it yet.
Resistance is not futile yet.
Are you and your children connected yet?
Polyester body filler will absorb moisture. I have seen metal under it rust because water found its way to it. If you need to store the project for a while do not sand the filler. The vinyl coating on unsanded polyester filler will seal out water. You could also spray or brush some cheap paint or primer to seal it.
By the way the vinyl coating on unsanded filler will clog sandpaper. I used to scrape it off with a razor blade before sanding.
FSJ Hybrid build thread: http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ad.php?t=43332
We are Borg, but we don't know it yet.
We are being assimilated but we don't know it yet.
Resistance is not futile yet.
Are you and your children connected yet?
I would also recommend practice, perhaps on more than just a fender. Materials are expensive, make the most of your practices time as possible. As you are practicing focus on developing a
FSJ Hybrid build thread: http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ad.php?t=43332
We are Borg, but we don't know it yet.
We are being assimilated but we don't know it yet.
Resistance is not futile yet.
Are you and your children connected yet?
I would also recommend practice, perhaps on more than just a fender. Materials are expensive, make the most of your practices time as possible. As you are practicing focus on developing a good eye. Having proper light is important for this.
There are basically two things to focus on 1: color coverage and 2: smoothness or gloss
For checking coverage you want your eyes and the light perpendicular or near 90 degrees to the surface. This is most important when spraying metalic colors.
When checking for gloss place the light and your eyes low to the surface and look for rough spots. Practice these tips in a garage with one hand held light until you have developed some eye skill before you mix your practice paint. After this you will understand where are the best places to put your lighting.
FSJ Hybrid build thread: http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ad.php?t=43332
We are Borg, but we don't know it yet.
We are being assimilated but we don't know it yet.
Resistance is not futile yet.
Are you and your children connected yet?
Thanks for the health warning. I have heard that this stuff is nasty.
I do have access to a detached garage to spray but not sure if this is even worth it.
Might have to rent a booth.
I will be in the same boat. Doing body work over a period of time.
I was thinking about spraying that 2k Epoxy stuff on the bits that I have completed.
Work on a front fender and after the filler has been sanded and its good to go I will spray 2k epoxy from a can. Eastwood has the stuff. I used it a little seems pretty good.
Like Babywag said maybe its not worth it due to the cash.
1976 Jeep Wagoneer
Rebuilt, 360, TH400, QT.
Still not running. Soon!
Thanks for the health warning. I have heard that this stuff is nasty.
I do have access to a detached garage to spray but not sure if this is even worth it.
Might have to rent a booth.
Some of my best work was done outdoors. There are geographic differences in weather but around my neck of the woods mornings can be great for painting. There is an opportunity on many mornings before the bugs come out, wind starts to blow and direct sunshine that I found to be great for painting.
I would have everything ready the night before and the car or parts inside so there was no dew on them. The biggest issue I had was bird poop.
FSJ Hybrid build thread: http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ad.php?t=43332
We are Borg, but we don't know it yet.
We are being assimilated but we don't know it yet.
Resistance is not futile yet.
Are you and your children connected yet?
One thing in favor of epoxy is it isn't as toxic as catalyzed urethane.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
Recently I've run into lots of discussion of "ospho" rust treatment, and how to use it properly under epoxy and filler.
But why use ospho instead of just grinding away all the rust down to metal? Is it just used in cases where the remaining metal is very thin/delicate and/or places where rust is in a seam or other hard to reach area?
Comment