rang-a-stang's summer project/build

[SC/397]

If you are using ARP rod nuts, you will want to radius the flange to match the radius in the connecting rod. I have seen these tweak the connecting rod to where they will need machined again.

IMG_3076 by Rick Jones, on Flickr

[rang-a-stang]

Aye, copy that, Rick. I spent some time inspecting my nuts. (that didn't come out right...)
I looked at the bottom of each nut to see if they have witness marks on the edges or the bottom. They all had witness marks on the flat bottom like these:

Here are my thoughts and please tell me if I am wrong or in left field; I thought the reason the nuts would need a radius is if they contacted the flashing on the edge of the rod OR they hit the portion of the rod flange that...

You know what...it doesn't matter. I am going to radius them. I am going to take your solid advice instead of trying to save an hour of work. I will find a bolt that the nuts fit on, chuck it into a drill, and spin it up, and touch it with a fine file to put a small radius/chamfer to the edge; just like your picture.

[Wagoneer Taylor]

Awe man Rang!!

That is the worst finding something like that.

Looking on the positive at least you found it now rather then having it reek more havoc on your engine.

Sorry man!

[rang-a-stang]

It is not a big deal really. This is my first engine build and I have never really been satisfied with my oil pressure so now I have the opportunity to apply some lessons learned and really build something that will last. I am glad I did not torch the crank or block. No real performance gain coming but my peace of mind is climbing by a lot.

[rang-a-stang]

If you are using ARP rod nuts, you will want to radius the flange to match the radius in the connecting rod. I have seen these tweak the connecting rod to where they will need machined again.

Like this, yeah?

I have only done 2. Want to make sure I am doing it right, before I do them all.

Cam is out and looks great. Cam bearings look like I would expect them too after 8k miles. I am going to replace the cam bearings but the cam and lifters will get put back in. Block is stripped and ready to be loaded back into my Mazda for the trip to the machinist (after I finish radius'ing the ConRod nuts). I am taking it to Larry Ofria out at Valley Head Service. He's a pretty legendary guy around SoCal. He is not very cheap but he was the only machinist of the 4 I called that seemed to understand this engine is a little different/better than a SBC. Honestly, he seemed a little excited to get a 401 in the shop, too. He made a statement that almost brought a tear to my eye. He said:

That motor is the ugliest thing around but man, don't mess with them! They have surprised so many big 3 drivers! They have so much power potential!

He also said he could have it done in about a week.

[cu4whln]

Sorry for the bad luck, but it looks like you are making the right moves...

Watching with interest and wishing you good luck!

[bkilby]

Like this, yeah?

I am taking it to Larry Ofria out at Valley Head Service. He's a pretty legendary guy around SoCal. He is not very cheap but he was the only machinist of the 4 I called that seemed to understand this engine is a little different/better than a SBC. Honestly, he seemed a little excited to get a 401 in the shop, too. He made a statement that almost brought a tear to my eye. He said:

He also said he could have it done in about a week.

Sorry you had to pull that back out Marc. I wanted to let you know I have a 5.7 Hemi on the shop floor right now. You know, "just in case". Lol.



I didn't realize VHS also did block machining too. I thought they were heads only.

[rang-a-stang]

Sorry for the bad luck, but it looks like you are making the right moves...

Watching with interest and wishing you good luck!

Thanks! I need the luck!!!

Sorry you had to pull that back out Marc. I wanted to let you know I have a 5.7 Hemi on the shop floor right now. You know, "just in case". Lol.

I didn't realize VHS also did block machining too. I thought they were heads only.

Hahaha! I'm OK with my engine at this point. it's been running pretty good and I am not in a spot to do a huge job. So this will get freshened up/fixed and driven to Idaho.
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Off it went! Taking a couple days off of the Chief. Bought an XJ yesterday for my son to drive. takes the pressure off getting my chief out of the garage, plus I wanted an XJ and the wife likes them too. I'll start detailing my oil pump and cleaning my heads later this week.

[asphaltrockdweller]

An XJ?????
Who drives one of those unibody wanabe jeeps?



Man people that drive those dog gone things............................... Well I don't know about them at all!!!




Let me know how it goes out there at VHS once your done.
I am not happy with the job that was done on my 401, and I haven't even started it yet. I know the machinist that worked on mine was crap.

[rang-a-stang]

An XJ?????
Who drives one of those unibody wanabe jeeps?

Man people that drive those dog gone things............................... Well I don't know about them at all!!!

Let me know how it goes out there at VHS once your done.
I am not happy with the job that was done on my 401, and I haven't even started it yet. I know the machinist that worked on mine was crap.

I know, right?! HAHAHAHA!! Real Cherokees have 2 doors and AMC engines in them. (mine has 4 doors but does have a 4.0).

Will do!
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...When you tear it down, lay a straight edge across the oil pump gears and see if they stick above or, below the housing.
Check it like this.
IMG_4049 by Rick Jones, on Flickr...

Went out today just to measure the oil pump like you said, Rick. The gears poke out of the housing. Without the gasket I can fit a .0025 feeler gauge through but a .003 does not. This is with the gears that were in it. I checked across the 2 gears, then rotated the straight edge measured across both gears independently.




Tomorrow I am going to start cleaning parts. Starting with the timing cover. I am waiting for my new oil pump internals to show up before I put it back together.

What's the best gasket to use in the oil pump: The one that comes with the Melling pump internals kit, the one that comes with the FelPro AMC V8 gasket kit (part number 260-1151), or a different one?

[rang-a-stang]

Waiting on oil pump internals, timing chain set, new oil screen/pickup, and machine work so I am back to cleaning parts. Today I ran a tap througha all the threaded holes on my timing cover then cleaned it with boiling hot water and degreaser. lastly I blew it all out with compressed air. Did the same to my filter adapter (boiling water and degreaser then compressed air). after cleaning it I used a piece of granite counter top to sand the adapter surface flat. I used 220 grit wet paper on the granite, then 320, then 600 grit. I got all the scratches off but you can still see some of the pock marks from whatever went through my engine.

[SC/397]

Now you need to back on the AMC Forum and note that plastigage is not a good way to measure end clearance. Don't forget - there are lots of expurts over there.


All of the gaskets I have measured are .0085" thick.

I have a pile of them and can mail a couple to you if you need one but most gasket kits and for sure the oil pump kit include a gasket.

[Rusty76]

I installed one of those midplates on the oil pump from BJ's.
I think I since read that it was not needed. Peace of mind?
I'm sure it will all work out and you will have solid oil pressure.

[rang-a-stang]

Now you need to back on the AMC Forum and note that plastigage is not a good way to measure end clearance. Don't forget - there are lots of expurts over there.


All of the gaskets I have measured are .0085" thick.

I have a pile of them and can mail a couple to you if you need one but most gasket kits and for sure the oil pump kit include a gasket.

Yeah! You were spot on! I was pretty darn surprised to see the gears poking out after plastigage told me they were inside the housing by .001!

Thank you for the offer but I think I am good. I have 2 oil pump gaskets: the one that came in the oil pump internals kit and the one that came in my FelPro engine gasket set. Is either better than that other?

I installed one of those midplates on the oil pump from BJ's.
I think I since read that it was not needed. Peace of mind?
I'm sure it will all work out and you will have solid oil pressure.

I had one of those mid plates in hand during my first rebuild and some of the folks on here said it was not really needed and introduces another area for an oil leak, so I ebay'ed mine. I don't think there is really anything "wrong" with using it per se, just another way to skin a cat, but when the experienced people on here (I think it was Ristow, maybe babywag, maybe SC/397?) said it is another place for an oil leak, that was when my mind was made up.
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Nothing going on with my Jeep. Spending all my time on the engine, cleaning parts, and waiting on my block to come home.

I have been living on theamcforum these days. I thought all the great people in the world lived on ifsja but there are quite a few over there, too! Here are my engine question threads. Anyone building an AMC V8 can get some good nuggets of info from these guys. I continue to be amazed at how many things I missed on my first rebuild and the tact they are using to point them out:

http://theamcforum.com/forum/fresh-401-quest-for-oil-pressure_topic107817.html

http://theamcforum.com/forum/401-going-to-machinist-should-i-drill-oil-passage_topic107853.html

http://theamcforum.com/forum/what-should-i-do-to-my-heads-while-blocks-away_topic107894.html

Another thread anyone building an AMC V8 needs to take an couple hours and read is Rick's running engine building thread.

https://rebsamcandjeep.proboards.com/thread/11/amc-engine-builds

[Rusty76]

So far no leaks at my oil mid plate but those dudes mentioned have forgot more than I will ever know. Thanks for the AMC rebuild links. Interesting stuff and will come in handy on next engine. Hope everything is going well.