Are all years of sway bars the same size?

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  • JeepsAndGuns
    AMC 4 OH! 1
    • Jul 18, 2003
    • 4586

    Are all years of sway bars the same size?

    After reading the thread about the sway bar bushings I got looking at mine and noticed they need replaceing. I noticed my YJ (that I just replaced the bushings on) has a huge 1 1/8 bar, compared to my cherokees puny 7/8 bar. I was wondering if all the sway bars are the same size or if any years had larger ones? I have a good idea in my head about some home brew discos, so I was thinking if I could find a larger bar to put on at the same time I could help get better road manners with a larger bar, and better off road by adding the discos. So are they all the same or do other years have diffrent sizes.
    79 Cherokee Chief 401/T18/D20, MPFI fuel injection, hydroboost, otherwise stock.
    Future mods: Caddy 500/NV4500/NP205, HP D60 front D60 smooth botom rear, 5.13 gears, 35x12.50's on H1 beadlock wheels. Warn M12000 winch.
    93 Wrangler 4.6 stroker/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, front hub conversion/big brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.
  • Bob Barry
    Jeep Doctor
    • Apr 09, 2000
    • 8335

    #2
    They are not all the same; the later GW's used a 1" or 1 1/8" bar. I put one of those on my '78 Cherokee. With the SOA, a bar makes on-road handling MUCH better.
    1987 J-20
    Video projects for my J-20 on Youtube

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    • J10-401
      304 AMC
      • Oct 01, 2005
      • 1951

      #3
      I have an '84 J10. Would it be wise to scout out the newer thicker bar?

      I added a 7/8ths rear bar (works great too) and it feels like a little thicker front bar would "trim" things out a bit more. I'm sort of a city-trapped redneck type that likes trucks that can 'cut corners' on pavement. But I do have JKS disconnect links now for offroad.
      \'84 J10 Pioneer -- Edelbrock headers, Intake. MSD 8778 Ignition. MC 4-bl carb. 1970 "319" 51-CC heads. Comp cam. 401/727 B&M truck-shifter (floor), 3.73:1 gears. 31\"x12.5\"x15 ProComp A/T tires on M/T Classic II 15x10 wheels. Rear swaybar. Bucket seat conversion & redone interior. Interior roll bar and 4-point harnesses.

      Comment

      • Menace
        258 I6
        • Jun 02, 2006
        • 476

        #4
        Addco makes a 1 1/8" sway bar for the front, and a 7/8" bar for the rear of the FSJ's.

        Dennis

        Comment

        • JeepsAndGuns
          AMC 4 OH! 1
          • Jul 18, 2003
          • 4586

          #5
          Yea a 1 1/8 bar for the front would be sweet, beats the heck out of the tiny one on there now. Now all I need to do is find one.

          J10-401, never thought of adding one to the rear. If I find a bigger front one, I might save the old one for the rear. Mount it up when I do the SOA and axle swap, and make up some discos for it too.
          79 Cherokee Chief 401/T18/D20, MPFI fuel injection, hydroboost, otherwise stock.
          Future mods: Caddy 500/NV4500/NP205, HP D60 front D60 smooth botom rear, 5.13 gears, 35x12.50's on H1 beadlock wheels. Warn M12000 winch.
          93 Wrangler 4.6 stroker/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, front hub conversion/big brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.

          Comment


          • #6
            were sway bars standard? my 79 doesn't have sway bars.... maybe the DAPO removed them? it might explain the chero's goofy nature on road.

            Al
            79 Cherokee Chief "Kronk" - TBI350/SM465/NP205
            99 Dodge 2500 4x4 - Cummins 24v
            07 Mazdaspeed3 GT - Big turbo, 340whp

            Comment

            • JeepsAndGuns
              AMC 4 OH! 1
              • Jul 18, 2003
              • 4586

              #7
              I think they might have been optional. I had a 77 that didnt have one, but it had the mounts for one (so my guess is someone removed it) But I have read on here of some people who dont have them, and it was stock that way. But I do know that they only came on the front. Look under it and see if the small little brackets are there. The one on the drivers side is just behind the steering box, on the the bottom of frame rail. Should be two holes a couple inches apart, and two more lined up with those on the other frame rail. Also, the spring plates will have two studs sticking out the side where the end links hooked to.
              79 Cherokee Chief 401/T18/D20, MPFI fuel injection, hydroboost, otherwise stock.
              Future mods: Caddy 500/NV4500/NP205, HP D60 front D60 smooth botom rear, 5.13 gears, 35x12.50's on H1 beadlock wheels. Warn M12000 winch.
              93 Wrangler 4.6 stroker/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, front hub conversion/big brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.

              Comment

              • pb
                350 Buick
                • Aug 28, 2003
                • 1443

                #8
                FWIW, my 75 doesn't have any nor the brackets/holes for them.
                Paul
                1975 Wagoneer DD
                360 with large cap ecm controlled HEI, TBI EFI, Comp Cam 260H, Edelbrock Performer Intake, CS130 alt, 4 row radiator, S10 steering box, QT w/LO, WT 3.54 D44 axles. Rancho 9000X's, ~4" lift, Caddy rear discs.

                Comment

                • JeepinPete
                  304 AMC
                  • Dec 09, 2003
                  • 2190

                  #9
                  My '79 also doesn't have the brackets. Apparently the brackets were available separately, since the PO sent them with the box of parts that I got when I bought the Cherokee. They have never been welded, so I assume they were available thru the dealer...
                  Pete

                  '55 Willys Wagon, the original FSJ
                  Sitting on a '77 Cherokee frame, Dodge D60's
                  Isuzu 6BD1, NV4500, NP241

                  Comment

                  • J10-401
                    304 AMC
                    • Oct 01, 2005
                    • 1951

                    #10
                    Jeeps and Guns,

                    Yeah, I love my rear bar. But since adding it, I've put JKS diconnects front and rear. You could actually make your own out of stock ones with access to a machine shop to keep the costs down.
                    \'84 J10 Pioneer -- Edelbrock headers, Intake. MSD 8778 Ignition. MC 4-bl carb. 1970 "319" 51-CC heads. Comp cam. 401/727 B&M truck-shifter (floor), 3.73:1 gears. 31\"x12.5\"x15 ProComp A/T tires on M/T Classic II 15x10 wheels. Rear swaybar. Bucket seat conversion & redone interior. Interior roll bar and 4-point harnesses.

                    Comment

                    • JeepsAndGuns
                      AMC 4 OH! 1
                      • Jul 18, 2003
                      • 4586

                      #11
                      Originally posted by J10-401
                      You could actually make your own out of stock ones with access to a machine shop to keep the costs down.
                      yep, thats what I plan on doing.
                      79 Cherokee Chief 401/T18/D20, MPFI fuel injection, hydroboost, otherwise stock.
                      Future mods: Caddy 500/NV4500/NP205, HP D60 front D60 smooth botom rear, 5.13 gears, 35x12.50's on H1 beadlock wheels. Warn M12000 winch.
                      93 Wrangler 4.6 stroker/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, front hub conversion/big brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.

                      Comment

                      • Ralph
                        Third Member
                        • Apr 11, 2000
                        • 3548

                        #12
                        I think the '86-later FSJ's had a 1" sway bar, and it's an easy swap.

                        Keep in mind that the effect of the sway bar is to keep the leaf springs from twisting. So the thickness of the swaybar is one thing, but it's also important to have good bushings in both ends of the leaf springs, as well as the swaybar and endlink bushings.

                        The best handling setup is to have polyurethane bushings. Also, my experience is that Edelbrock IAS shocks make for a really sweet handling package for FSJ's.

                        And if you're lucky enough to have front ('87-later) and/or rear ('89-later) track bars, they're worth keeping because they make impose even more control on the leaf springs. For a lifted vehicle, two ways to keep the track bar are to either drill the mounting holes into slots; or cut the track bar in half, have each end threaded, and use a tie rod adjusting sleeve.
                        We did it to Japan. We can do it to it to Iran!

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