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Old 04-15-2011, 03:02 PM
Pavementsux91XJ Pavementsux91XJ is offline
Join Date: Nov 19, 2009
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 120
Originally Posted by Tigger4X
It still leaves me wondering if I would be better off holding out for a 24V instead of a 12V. Again I'm not looking for rompin stompin power, but wanting some power in reserve for hills and towing which is gonna serve my MPGs and power needs the best? Is it worth it so save money on the upfront purchase of a 12V and throw a bit extra at it to wake it up? I was told that the late '98 thru 2000 5.9s were 24V which also meant they had a computer on them, but it could be eliminated by by swapping out to a P-pump which makes the entire engine mechanical, save two wires for power only.

I'd go with the 12 valve if your not going with a full race application. I have driven VE and P pumped 12 valces and I can tell you that my 24V with a chip will run circles around them BUT... The install would be much more complex, plus, if your going to P pump the 24 V, you would lose most (not all, but most) of the reason for getting the 24 valve. Add into that that most 98 and 99 and some 00 and 01 24v should be out of the question due to the "53" code brazil block that likes to crack and your going to have a hard time finding a good one. I can tell you that a bone stock 4wd 2500 dodge extra cab long bed has power to spare with the P pump, which means in something as light as a j-truck, that engine will have PLENTY of power.

Something for everybody to keep in mind though. These diesel engines were built to tow in trucks, or for the economy in cars. Other than the new CRD engines, they are not rocket ships. Bone stock they are only going to rev to about 3 grand and it will take them awhile to get there. Its in their design and the fuel they use. I'm not going with a diesel swap, even though I am a diesel mechanic, for just that reason. Gas engines are for horsepower and fast revs, diesels are for torque and pulling. Use your Jeep for mud much? You'll be watching your turbos puke up there turbine wheels. Live in a cold place? startings gonna be fun. I hate to burst anybodys bubble, but those diesels you see in the magazines have a ton of $$$ put into them to make them handle that power. And if your not a diesel mechanic, repairs are more expensive. If the injection pump goes out or starts leaking which will happen to the older pumps when run on the new standard ULSD diesel or bio-juice, your looking at $1000 plus to fix it for parts alone.

I'll get off my soap box now. I've just seen way too many people buy diesels to be cool and think that out of the box they act like the ones in the magazines only to end up either selling them because they can't afford the repairs or blow them up because they don't know what theyre doing.
Trail Rig: 1991 XJ on 3/4 tons and 38's
Tow Rig: 2002 Dodge 2500 CTD 4x4

And the only one anybody here cares about:

Huntin Rig/ Mild Trail Rig: 1973(must be late because it has all 74 parts) Jeep J10, 360/t18/d20. 3" lift on 33's. Runnin Great! Awaiting body work and flatbed!
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