Wow, how do I get this rusted u-joint out?

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  • DanHS
    • Aug 29, 2004
    • 5268

    Wow, how do I get this rusted u-joint out?

    Trying to replace the axle u-joint on the right front. There's no such thing as pushing on one side to pop out the bearing cap on the other side. There's also no such thing as coaxing it out with a hammer, or drilling through it. I've moved it maybe 1/64" by hammering on it really hard. I was holding an old lugnut over the cap so I didn't hit the shaft, the lugnut is getting flattened out. Should I try using a sledge hammer? Might rip off my vise along with the corner of the work bench though. I couldn't blowtorch it because my blowtorch nozzle decided it didn't feel like working. A drill did absolutely nothing to the bearing cap, not even a mark. Maybe I should soak it in a vat of acid or something? Or bring it to a shop with a big hydraulic press? Or go to the gun shop and ask to shoot it with a BMG .50?
    '84 Grand Wagoneer 360/727/229, 32" General ST's and 36" Swampers, 3" lift, TFI/Mallory 6AL, CS 144, Taurus fan, custom bumper, and custom 'bodywork'. Soon to have 6" lift

    '79 Cherokee S 360/T15/D20, rusting away while I figure out what to do with it

    '91 Final Edition GW in Spinnaker Blue!

    My FSJ pics

    FSJ Grille Identification
  • CrawfishStu
    232 I6
    • Jan 11, 2007
    • 46

    #2
    Soak it with PB blaster and attack it again. I usually put a socket unter the opposite side and hit the side I want to move with a coal chisel or impact extension and a 8lb maul. I put the shaft up on a block of wood and have a buddy stand on it. It doesn't move that way and it levels it out because the socket is on concrete.

    Comment

    • J10_Jimbo_2
      232 I6
      • Apr 01, 2007
      • 44

      #3
      Once you remove the clips holding the caps in, place two sides across a vice and hit the axle to remove one side of the cap at a time. Sounds like you are trying to remove both by pushing the top down. If this is what you are doing apply heat and try to move it.
      Hope this helps.
      Jimbo
      The member formerly know as J10_Jimbo, who due to technical problems is now "UNAUTHORIZED". I"m authorized again. Wooohoo! Now which name to use???

      Owner and rebuilder of FSJ's since 1983

      Comment

      • KaiserMan
        I got the Willys....
        • Jun 21, 2005
        • 8702

        #4
        Sounds like it might be worth the $25 to have a shop change it for you.
        Thomas Russell
        1987 Cherokee Laredo 2-Door 4.0/AW4
        1971 Gladiator
        J2000 Platform-Stake Dump 350/T18

        1970 Gladiator J3000 3407Z Camper Truck 350/T18
        1968 Wagoneer Custom 327/TH400

        Comment

        • chrisnsarah
          360 AMC
          • Sep 24, 2000
          • 3282

          #5
          I assume you did remove the snap rings.

          So far, there hasn't been an FSJ bearing or u-joint that my cheapie HF hydraulic press couldn't handle.
          '64 J200 thriftside
          '67 J2000 townside custom cab
          '68 Jeepster Commando
          '69 Super Wagoneer
          '75 J10
          '79 Cherokee S WT
          '75 Cherokee
          '61 Aristocrat Lil Loafer

          Comment

          • chakaD460
            232 I6
            • Sep 21, 2006
            • 102

            #6
            I had the same problem on an F-150. Turned out I didn't take the c-clips off the caps. After that they popped off with a solid hit and some sockets.

            PB Blast it and let it sit for an hour or so.
            87 J10 258/4 spd

            Comment

            • mrtazwrench
              AMC 4 OH! 1
              • Nov 10, 2001
              • 3987

              #7
              you can rent/buy a ball joint press, have used that with my impact to remove these.
              Chad
              "Let's see that Red Blue Green **** sucker build one of these without duct taping it together!"
              https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...3&l=76427b95fd
              88Wag
              87J20 Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
              83Cherokee WT
              82J20
              Parts vehicles: 1.5 Wags, 3.5 J20's, 1 J10 1 J300

              Comment

              • Big Rob
                230 Tornado
                • Jan 21, 2006
                • 13

                #8
                When I did mine a few months ago I soaked them with PBBlaster and then took them to my shop (I work for metallurgical engineering firm) and used the hydraulic testing press to push them out. The drivers side took over 25,000 lbs of force to push out. KaiserMan might have point.
                [email protected]

                Comment

                • dngrs1
                  327 Rambler
                  • May 22, 2004
                  • 580

                  #9
                  I used to use an old trailer ball mount with holes for leveling bars and use an old socket and hit it with a 5lb. sledge untill I bought a 12 ton shop press at a yard sale for $30. Now it's a piece of cake.
                  '77 J-10 '79 CJ-7
                  Arizona-The Rust Stops Here

                  Comment

                  • beigebomber
                    258 I6
                    • Aug 11, 2004
                    • 284

                    #10
                    Amen on the HF press. I just did this last night.Mine would have never came out with a BFH no matter how big.
                    85 360 727 208 HEI dana 60HD rear welded w disc , 4 inch springs ,bobbed , inboared springs /coming soon 36s, 8 lug frt.
                    SOLD no more FSJs right now, just CJs

                    Comment

                    • DanHS
                      • Aug 29, 2004
                      • 5268

                      #11
                      Yes I removed the c-clips, those were a bit hard in themselves as two of them had rusted to the caps. I finally got the caps out with the socket and sledge hammer. I mutilated two old lugnuts in the process, and put a few dents in the garage floor. All it did to the bearing caps through all that was clean them, they're made of some really tough steel. Next time I have a shop do it, unless I get my own hydraulic press. The yokes weren't damaged but they were a little dented, so I had to clean them up with a file and then hone them out nice and smooth so the new caps would just snugly slide in. It's all good and tight now.
                      '84 Grand Wagoneer 360/727/229, 32" General ST's and 36" Swampers, 3" lift, TFI/Mallory 6AL, CS 144, Taurus fan, custom bumper, and custom 'bodywork'. Soon to have 6" lift

                      '79 Cherokee S 360/T15/D20, rusting away while I figure out what to do with it

                      '91 Final Edition GW in Spinnaker Blue!

                      My FSJ pics

                      FSJ Grille Identification

                      Comment

                      • chrisnsarah
                        360 AMC
                        • Sep 24, 2000
                        • 3282

                        #12
                        Once you buy a press, you'll wonder why you didn't get one earlier. I bought mine because I needed to press new bearings on a D44 rear axle.

                        With a bearing separator, and an assortment of sockets and threaded plumbing pipe for sleeving, there hasn't been a press job I couldn't do with it. It also functions as a brake for bending brackets and tubing.

                        I've always used a vise for u-joints, but it seens so effortless with the press.
                        '64 J200 thriftside
                        '67 J2000 townside custom cab
                        '68 Jeepster Commando
                        '69 Super Wagoneer
                        '75 J10
                        '79 Cherokee S WT
                        '75 Cherokee
                        '61 Aristocrat Lil Loafer

                        Comment

                        • FSJ-Earl
                          304 AMC
                          • May 02, 2003
                          • 1574

                          #13
                          Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!


                          just about the best 30.00 plus tax I ever spent!
                          FSJ-Earl
                          2002 F350 Diesel - tow rig / family hauler
                          2008 4 door JK Rubicon - Wife's Daily Driver
                          1989 GW - the one that started it all
                          1983 - J15 - J10 body + J20 running gear = J15 Trail rig

                          Comment

                          • mrtazwrench
                            AMC 4 OH! 1
                            • Nov 10, 2001
                            • 3987

                            #14
                            Originally posted by FSJ-Earl
                            http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335

                            just about the best 30.00 plus tax I ever spent!
                            that's about the same as mine, but mine is an otc I bought years ago at napa, and paid more than twice that.
                            Chad
                            "Let's see that Red Blue Green **** sucker build one of these without duct taping it together!"
                            https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...3&l=76427b95fd
                            88Wag
                            87J20 Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
                            83Cherokee WT
                            82J20
                            Parts vehicles: 1.5 Wags, 3.5 J20's, 1 J10 1 J300

                            Comment

                            • FSJ Guy
                              • Mar 20, 2005
                              • 10061

                              #15
                              Originally posted by FSJ-Earl
                              http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335

                              just about the best 30.00 plus tax I ever spent!

                              Yup. I have one, too! It is VERY easy to use and for a HF tool, very well made.

                              BTW, for those of you getting the HF 12 or 20 ton press, DON'T USE THE press plates that came with it!!!!!!!

                              They are SINTERED metal, which means they behave JUST LIKE CINDER BLOCKS. They will crack very easily and WITHOUT WARNING, causing damage to you, your workpiece or anything else in the area. I spent just over $30 and got a nice 1" thick 10"x10" solid metal plate instead. Of course, this was AFTER the sintered blocks broke on me.
                              Ethan Brady
                              1987 Grand Wagoneer, slightly longer than stock.

                              www.bigscaryjeep.com

                              Don't mess with me. I once killed a living hinge.

                              Comment

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