wont come off high idle(choke issue?) and thanks!

[3rdelement]

Hey guys, want to thank you for all the help this weekend with the cs144 install. its running great. however....


now that the choke is getting full voltage, when you start the carb(turn key, once on the gas pedal, then start) it wont come down off of the high idle.

my guess is that i need to take the electric choke and rotate it towards the front of the vehicle. i didnt have a chance to adjust before i had to be at work(thank god for my daily driver)


anyways thanks for the tips and ideas. i'll try what i can when i get home.

[derf]

Make sure the choke wire is getting voltage and that the carburetor is grounded. That's quick and easy with a multimeter. And make sure the choke wire is actually plugged in. That was my high idle problem a while back. The choke wire came loose.

Assuming those check out, check the various adjustments in the linkage, including the choke setting.

[3rdelement]

yeah. previously it was getting 10-12v now it gets 14.04 solid.
i checked to make sure its grounded as per the manufacturers info.

and the linkage never changed from pre alternator install to post.

so im leaning towards something with that electric choke

[tgreese]

I would think that more voltage would tend to open the choke faster, sooner and harder, not less. Opening the choke more will make the engine more likely to come off fast idle. Not enthusiastic about your theory.

[3rdelement]

im open to ideas.

[jpcoutts]

If you still have the rivets in the choke housing you will need to drill them out to remove them before you can do much in the way of adjusting the choke spring. Can you move the linkage and the choke butterfly with your fingers? It should feel loose and easy to move. It should feel almost too loose to be right. If you, or someone else have already had it apart you should be able to loosen the screws that replaced the rivets in the choke housing cover and turn the housing to adjust the choke setting. Turning one way will keep the buttefly closed longer and the opposite way will open it sooner. Once you are sure the housing and spring, linkage etc. are assembled correctly and move freely you can start by setting the housing in the initial position to get it adjusted by lining up the marks on the housing with the marks on the mount on the carb. It should be close enought that you can then make small adjustments by turning the housing until you get the amount of choke you need.

PS If you don't have a manual of some sort get one. Most have good photos and diagrams of the choke parts.

[Suddendeath]

I have the same issue with my holley. If the carburetor is used, the coil inside the cap that warms up and expands to open the choke can wear out. That's my issue.

Food for thought.

[3rdelement]

yeah i was researching online all day and it seems that it can be either the spring inside that choke housing could have disconnected from the mechanism, or the off throttle lobe on the drivers side needs adjustment with the screw there.

[serehill]

could be this

Did you ohm between the two connectors & see if you had resistance? The coil could be bad. Remove the wires & ohm the two connectors if there's no resistance then it's bad. When it's cold trun the key one with the air cleaner off & watch to see if the choke starts opening in about 4 miutes. There's also a little plastic cam on the back side of the choke that the high idle screw sits on I just had to replace a broken one where the cantalever broke off & it was stuck in high idle.

[mdill]

Did you ohm between the two connectors & see if you had resistance? The coil could be bad. Remove the wires & ohm the two connectors if there's no resistance then it's bad. When it's cold trun the key one with the air cleaner off & watch to see if the choke starts opening in about 4 miutes. There's also a little plastic cam on the back side of the choke that the high idle screw sits on I just had to replace a broken one where the cantalever broke off & it was stuck in high idle.

X2 if anything the CS144 has a little higher set point for the voltage regulator, so it should come off choke a little faster. Check the choke coil.

[JeepWrencher]

Hey, maybe I missed something but the High Idle should be controlled by a separate solenoid on the driver side of the carb.

I had the same issue with the carb not coming down off of high idle even when it was warm with a correctly functioning electric choke no matter how long it had been driven. I didn't make any changes to cause this it just started one day.

Found that the High Idle solenoid wasn't quite broken it would just stick in the engaged position and not retract once the throttle had been blipped. I live in Florida where it never gets cold so I simply removed the solenoid completely. I imagine you may want to check if yours is staying engaged and replace if necessary.

[3rdelement]

its a 1406 4barrel, doesnt have that solenoid. but great idea!

mdill... killer bracket sir.


so thanks to the flu i was gonna tackle this again saturday and see what i could figure out. thanks to the foot of snow last night i had to take my dads j2500 to work today. love them 4.10 gears. lol

i think its gonna be a that choke cap on the left. this is why: i forgot this symptom. when the truck was running i would be under the hood and move the throttle and watch that butterfly start closing. that combined with the soot out my tailpipe, i think its set way rich and closing the butterfly to much.

thanks again for all the help. this forum is amazing. im always so thankful for all the ideas!

[3rdelement]

Well I started today by checking the choke, and realized it was way way off. Got it adjusted, and the truck is running great.

[serehill]

Kewel

144 rules.