heat for seatbelt torx

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  • MrBoZiffer
    232 I6
    • Jan 18, 2011
    • 43

    heat for seatbelt torx

    After I stripped the head with a T50, I finally started reading about these torx bolts, and now I know how much of a PITA they are. I see a lot of ya'll are suggesting heat from underneath. What's a good/safe heat source to use?

    I've got a large soldering iron that might work.
    1988 GW
  • leadsled01
    232 I6
    • Dec 23, 2010
    • 167

    #2
    Torch's..Soldering iron won't do squat.

    Comment

    • MrBoZiffer
      232 I6
      • Jan 18, 2011
      • 43

      #3
      Well, ratfarts... that's what I'd thought ya'll tell me. Thanks.
      1988 GW

      Comment

      • serehill
        Gone,Never Forgotten.
        • Nov 22, 2009
        • 8619

        #4
        The torx is a weird size it you get the right one it works better

        I can't recall which size it is but one of the standards seem to work but it is too small. The correct torx will eliminate your need for heat.
        Last edited by serehill; 03-02-2013, 05:55 PM.

        80 Cherokee
        360 ci 727 with
        Comp cams 270 h
        NP208
        Edlebrock performer intake
        Holley 4180
        Msd total multi spark.
        4" rusty's springs
        Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

        If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.

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        • jeeper54
          350 Buick
          • May 25, 2009
          • 929

          #5
          Don't remember if they are the same but I've used a 6 inch pipe wrench after soaking with penetrating oil when I had 1 strip out. Worth a try?
          Currently without
          Formerly
          1986 G.W. 360
          1986 Eagle Wag
          1985 G.W. 360
          1984 Eagle Wag
          1981 Wag 360
          1978 Wag 401
          1981 Cherk W/T 258
          1966 Wag Super 327
          Not counying XJs'.
          [Did have a 94 & more recently a '97 GC with 5.2. for awhile. Just not the same! Now have the FSJ blues!

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          • joe
            • Apr 28, 2000
            • 22392

            #6
            I vote for fire(flame) forget elect soldering iron or gun. You need 'hot' to breakdown the chemical bond of the thread locker goop on belt anchors. Same scenario with exterior mirror head mounting bolts. Without fire I just break the brittle torx bits.
            joe
            "Don't mind me. I'm just here for the alibi"

            Comment


            • #7
              I just weld a 1/2 inch nut to the top of the torx head and they back right out. The heat from welding breaks them loose, but a good shot of PB after you weld the nut on wouldn't hurt.

              Use some never seize on the new ones if you ever think you might need to take them out again.
              Art
              ASE Master Collision Tech
              "Beast" - 81 "S" W/T, 85-360, T-18, Lock-rite,wag alloys, 31-10.50 Pro Comp MT's, Warn 8274 in a fabbed bumper/deer strainer(tested and approved)

              88 XJ, 3" lift, 31-10.50's, custom bumpers and winch/tow bar mounts, Warn 9500HS, custom sliders/steps, camo paint, & headliner

              Member: FSJ Prissy Restoration Assoc.

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              • csuengr
                327 Rambler
                • Jan 19, 2011
                • 748

                #8
                correct size is a T-47. Look up an impact driver (not impact wrench). It is a tool that you hit with a hammer and loosens the bolts.
                If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer.

                Comment

                • csuengr
                  327 Rambler
                  • Jan 19, 2011
                  • 748

                  #9
                  Like this.

                  Free Shipping - Craftsman 009-47641 with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Manual Impact Drivers at Summit Racing.
                  If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Actually a T-50. Never ran across a 47, 45 and 50, yes, 27 yes.
                    Art
                    ASE Master Collision Tech
                    "Beast" - 81 "S" W/T, 85-360, T-18, Lock-rite,wag alloys, 31-10.50 Pro Comp MT's, Warn 8274 in a fabbed bumper/deer strainer(tested and approved)

                    88 XJ, 3" lift, 31-10.50's, custom bumpers and winch/tow bar mounts, Warn 9500HS, custom sliders/steps, camo paint, & headliner

                    Member: FSJ Prissy Restoration Assoc.

                    Comment

                    • MrBoZiffer
                      232 I6
                      • Jan 18, 2011
                      • 43

                      #11
                      Yeah, I tried a Kobalt T50 and it didn't work, but the bit has held together. It's technically the right size, but I think the teeth are too thin so it doesn't grip tight enough. Maybe the 47 has thicker teeth?

                      Anyway, I stripped some of the torx head, so now I have little room for error before I have to drill it out. I'll definitely try a torch, impact driver, and PB first.

                      Thanks.
                      1988 GW

                      Comment

                      • ProTouring442
                        327 Rambler
                        • Mar 15, 2011
                        • 702

                        #12
                        It's a T-47, trust me... I used to sell mechanic's tools for a living.

                        Here's a Snap On T-41 on EvilBay

                        You ever wonder what medieval cook looked at the guts of a pig and thought, "I bet if you washed out that poop tube, you could stuff it with meat and eat it."

                        Comment

                        • csuengr
                          327 Rambler
                          • Jan 19, 2011
                          • 748

                          #13
                          I get mine at ACE. The T-47 has thicker 'teeth" just for the stupid seat belt bolts.
                          If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer.

                          Comment

                          • ProTouring442
                            327 Rambler
                            • Mar 15, 2011
                            • 702

                            #14
                            Originally posted by csuengr
                            I get mine at ACE. The T-47 has thicker 'teeth" just for the stupid seat belt bolts.
                            Indeed, made for the higher torque rating of the seat belt bolts.

                            Lovland, CO, eh? Bought my was-a-beautiful-car-but-now-might-be-totaled M5 in Loveland.
                            You ever wonder what medieval cook looked at the guts of a pig and thought, "I bet if you washed out that poop tube, you could stuff it with meat and eat it."

                            Comment

                            • J20 project
                              304 AMC
                              • Dec 27, 2000
                              • 2487

                              #15
                              +2 on the impact driver w/ the proper bit.

                              J20
                              BP Drivetrain...........

                              Driveshafts for all Jeeps, Constant velocity rebuilds, Replacement, Repair
                              775-537-7918

                              https://www.facebook.com/BPShafts/

                              Putting this back up. "Someone is gonna have to crawl under the rig"

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