To Do List for my 1979 Chief

[wincher]

which oil do you use for the diffs?
GL5 is a must?
We have a mobillube (141064) gx 80W90 in stock, but this is only API GL4
and a GL5 hich is used in the diffs of the Merceds benz Unimog, but this is not a 80w90

[wiley-moeracing]

you should be fine with regular 80-90w oil.

[wincher]

you should be fine with regular 80-90w oil.

I have used the 75W90 GL5 and not a GL4

[wincher]

How is your ignition system? a weak spark can cause this also.

Whats about a non return valve in the fuel hose?
After a longer stillstand the engine starts and dies.
Than i have to do some seconds with the starter for restart.

After a short stillstand it starts directly

[wincher]

Today pics of the sparks from piston 1 and 3 with the 75x47 rods and 95 MJ
The isolator is now more bright and tan.
runs better than before.

bogs only with full throttle after rolling in idle and or low revs.
from 40 mph i can "normal" speed up.
sometimes he is spitting a little...

it is hard to explain that in words...
(The oily tip at the last pic is from touching the engine .. it is still oily from the cover seal.. )

[wiley-moeracing]

If it sits for awhile the fuel will evaporate in the carb, especially in warmer times. a electric fuel pump will help with that, it will prime the carb with fuel so it should take less time to fire it up. Also install a plastic insulator spacer between the carb and intake manifold, to help keep the gas from boiling out.

[wincher]

This is now my electrical modification.
Ammeter out of function.
100A circuit breaker for the alternator
30A screwable fuse for the dashboard, light switch, igniton switch

flying fuse for the e choke

[wincher]

I will add a 12V socket outlet in the rear trunk for a cooler box and transfer the wire under the carpet.
should i use the wire 50 from the A/C compressor (A/C is out)?
Any better idea?

[wincher]

If it sits for awhile the fuel will evaporate in the carb, especially in warmer times. a electric fuel pump will help with that, it will prime the carb with fuel so it should take less time to fire it up. Also install a plastic insulator spacer between the carb and intake manifold, to help keep the gas from boiling out.

ok. the chief was the night out and we have only about 50
I hope the warmer times come soon!


A old pic from the preowner.... but you can see it is a thicker rubber sealing mounted.

Maybe the edelbrock heat insulator gasket 9265?




Have added a new paper gasket between this and the carburettor.

[wincher]

And now back to the old topic with my gauges.
Remember:
I have installed a new 5V CVR in my instrument panel

in the same way new sender for temp and oil pressure.
Dash connector was out and all wires checked.
fuel gauge works, i hope correct (have it not filled the tank total full but i have spend 25 l and the gauge goes to 3/4 )


oil pressure between 25-20psi , goes to 0psi when hot.
Probably no electical reason



I have still no temp gauge. Gauge is totally on COLD

When do the sender wire on ground the gauge goes to HOT.
After about 3 miles i did this measurement:
Engine not running

A1,A2,A3 = 5V (CVR works)
A1 (oil) = 3,73 V on the gauge to ground and on the sender wire to ground (wire is ok, but only 3,73V??)
A2 (Fuel) 2,4V (Tank is a litte more than half full)
S3 (temp) 3.33V at the gauge and the sender unit to ground (wire is ok)
(But only 3,33V? a few days ago i had 4,73V)

Resistance from the (new) sender to battery ground: 25,1 ohm
like the specification in the pic this might be right and the sender is still ok
but sometimes i cant measure any ohmic resistance!
Have tried a second multimeter too.


And i have different ohmic data on the gauge.







I am on the end of my tether

[wiley-moeracing]

You need to use a 1 inch plastic spacer under the carb, (edelbrock is fine) You probably have a bad sensor for the temp gauge.

[wincher]

I have now a new Sender for the Temp. The Second
It is the same. Temp stays at cold
Something must be wrong with the Gauge or the CVR in the Gauge..


today temp gauge resistance
S to ground 3,7 ohms (instead 36 to 72)

S to A 18,8 Ohms (19 to 21)
A to ground 21 ohms (instead of 49 to51)


in my view the temp gauge has a technical fault.

[rang-a-stang]

That's what it looks like to me, too. (Fault in the gauge). I say let it ride for now. Focus on getting the carb tuned. You know you are not overheating so table it for now.

[wincher]

That's what it looks like to me, too. (Fault in the gauge). I say let it ride for now. Focus on getting the carb tuned. You know you are not overheating so table it for now.

Haha! Today After a few Miles. Was at home and playing with the shift Lever again...
(Have to adjust the neutral Switch.... Engine Start Not at P. Have to Shift a little to R to get the starter turn around)
But a wonder: Temp Gauge goes to the green area!
A sign of life!
Later the few miles back to the Garage the Gauge stays still at totally cold again..

[rang-a-stang]

Hm... Do you have a good ground from your engine to the body/frame? Maybe ground the wire at the sender and check resistance to make sure all your connections are good and not corroded?