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Old 04-05-2020, 11:27 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Join Date: Oct 31, 2016
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 3,434
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
...
Some infos about my cluster and wiring.

not so important: have found the seat belt lamp, the connector for the timer and the buzzer. But no switch on the belt ... how is the imput for the seat belt warning?

lm missing the Lamp E emergency drive and the park break socket is a little broken.

important
on the board was a soldered jumper wire between A3, I, and A2
my gauges was
fuel: totaly full
temp: totaly cold
oil pressure: total zero.
and this after the good ground.

At my opinion the jumper to I is wrong.

I have cut them of.

now my gauges are
fuel: total empty
temp: totaly hot
oil; zero

(A3 and A2 have to be connected, but not I...)

The pin 4 ground was soldered
the pin 3 (oil) and 1 (emergency) looks loose.
tommorow morning i will solve the problems hopefully
It is time to roll out from the garage and go to setting the carb and ignition and do a test drive for the transmission, kickdown and so on.
Oh man! Someone did some hacking on your gauge panel! Gees!
I don't believe there is any connection between the actual seat belts and the seat belt timer/buzzer. I think it just buzzes and turns the light on for a few seconds when you start your truck. At least that is how mine works. There is one wire that connects to the front seat belt re-tractors down the on the floor so maybe that is what senses? Not sure. But I know for sure there is no switch in the seat belt buckle or the seat itself.

You have a few posts for me to catch up on. So let me see where you went with these.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
My "new" board.
Did the 5 V part as you can see on the heater board.
ground them on the heater ground (white wire)
12 V comes from the pin 15 (I)
the radio noise suppressor is ok,
the 5 V are for the A3 and A2.

The conductor path to A1 is ok.

Unfortunately I have not tested al with the multimeter...
Now I have
no oil pressure
no fuel
temp is full hot

Ok, that looks pretty OK! So, next step, Did you measure voltage at A1/A2/A3? Is it now a clean 5v? When I installed mine, I had to open up my heater gauge and remove the left over voltage rectifier inside by using a piece of heat shrink. In my thread I referenced above, it is post #15. If you have No oil pressure and no fuel, you probably do not have a clean 5 Volts there, yet.
You are in the ball park! Don't get too frustrated! You are about to fix this and be home free! I know the feeling but you are sooooo close!
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
Between short another point.

from the elektrik choke goes the wire to the alternator.
there are only 6,? V on the e-choke - with engine running.

I have wondered how long the choke was closed...

and the engine smokes extremely after cold start.
and smells at fuel and blue smoke....

why no 12 V from the alternator?

with this wiring the choke is only heating after starting.

Have found a youtube video with 12 V after ignition is on.
When your engine is running, are you measure voltage across your battery, that should be 13+ volts. That should be coming from your alternator.

yeah, when you start your engine, the choke should be cold/closed. then as soon as you start it, you should be getting 12v on the choke line, and it heats up and slowly opens. I think there is always 12v on that line a long as the engine is running...I think.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
rang-a-stang, where are you? curfew, stay at home and help mie please

Here some updates:
With the 7805CVR, installed like you see in the pic, i have
5,3V V at A2
5,36 V at A1
12,9 V at A3 but 5,3 V at the red cable soldered near the A3 Nut"
12,97 V at I (Nut)

3,08 V between A2 and S2 (Fuel Gauge)1
All measured using the good new ground of the cluster

With igniition ON but the engine not started:
Temp gauge is in the green part, 3 mm before the mark to the HOT area

Please explain me that you have written once before:

"So I removed the connection between pin 15 and I."

I put Pin 15 to the input of the regulator, I put the output of the regulator on A3 and I grounded the regulator to by dash.

I tried hooking up the round connector to do a quick op check: No dice/didn't work. I was pretty frustrated at this point so I buttoned up for the night. This week I will take a multi-meter and verify I have 12 volts at the input to the regulator (pin 15), that I have a good ground for the regulator, and that I have 5 volts out (at A3)."

Babywag qoute:

"All the gauges will die if the CVR inside the coolant gauge fails."

Have found a error after removing the surrpressor. No voltage at A3. The printed circuit was brocken near the soldered red wire jumper.

Did a new jumper between A2 and A3, have now 5V on A3 ant the fuel is at half.
Will try tomorrow the oil and temp gauge when engine is running an warm.

Unserstand now what the preowner did.
The CVR in the temp gauge was defect and 12 V was on A3

He put in the green ohmic resistance before pin 11 ignition and the complete board has only 6,7V
With the soldered jumper wire he goes with the 6,7V from 15 to A1, A2
He scratchted the printed circuit left and right from A3 and separated this way the 12 V (A3) from A1 and A2.
SOOO much here... Let's see if I can catch up:
Sorry, bud! Been slammed with work and getting my truck back on the road! hopefully this post will help!
If you have 5.3 at A1 and A2, you should have working oil and fuel gauges. If they are not, then the next step for those gauges is to start troubleshooting their senders. 12v at A3 is bad! You have to find where that 12V is coming from. I am going to guess from inside your temp gauge.

"So I removed the connection between pin 15 and I."
12V comes in on pin 15, follows the foils on the circuit board to pin I on the temp guage. Somehow, you have to remove that 12v. On mine I did that by opening up the Temp gauge and installing shrink wrap on the inside of the post. Right now, your 12V is going into your temp gauge and messing it up.

I think you are spot on, too! What you said makes PERFECT sense (about what the previous owner did). You are fixing it correctly, though! nice job!!! You're thread (this one) is really fun because you are going through it well and logically! keep it up!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
I want recognize my jeep and have to check all because they are so many mistakes from a unprofessional rebuilt.
Im on the 1978 manual . page 201
this wiring is differgent to the wiring diagramm on page 399 and mine.


I have the following
electronic modul:

blue wire; distributor
white wire: distributor
green wire: coil minus
yellow wire: coil plus
yellow splice to 50 dash connector
yellow splice to voltage regulator white wire

voltage regulator
F black - Alternator
S white - to yellow electronic modul
S white . not connected
A yellow- starter soleniod
A yellow- not connected
I grenn- not connected

Starter soleniod-

big connectors
starting motor, the other is Battery and red 55 to ammeter(OK)
small connectors
light blue 14 from dash board , neutral safety, igniion switch (OK)
the other small one is not connected ! no red 13E to the coil plus connector!
Is ist necessary to complete this?

no capacitor jumper from coil plus1

alternator
BAT to 12 red dash connector and ammeter, ignition switch (OK)
black wire tor voltage regulator black (F)
in the circuit diagramm is the alternator FLD to green voltage regulator
By mine is gren not used and the alternator on black. mistake??

there was a 3. wire from the alternator case to the electric choke with around 6V without fuse.
have disconnected them and put the e choke to wire 13 red as in pic below above.
have now 12 V when ignition is ON and the choke opens faster.
A inline fuse will be added.

What is true or false here?

regards and stay healthy!!
If I remember correctly, You have a Prestolite distributor, right? If so, yours will be pretty different than this. This diagram is the Duraspark setup.

It's kind of hard to verify wiring like this, via forums like this. Is there a particular function that is not working? I do think your choke wire is messed up. It should have 12V on it when the key is on.
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