When I did mine, the new cap adapter had a manufacturing defect. There was a piece of plastic sticking out of the undercut on the bottom where it fits over the distr. base. New parts can be defective.
TFI!!! HELP!!!!!!!!(Update!!)
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UPDATE. OK, got a few hors off so I checked out the rest of my parts. The Borg-Warner C194A IS the right one. The one I got from Autozone is the Wells f958 and it didn't even look close to the b-w one. The C194A snapped right on just like everyone said. Now what I need to know is if I got the right coil. I'll post pics in a sec, and if it is right, how did everyone mount theirs up? Pics are really helpful, or a good Barney level explanation. Thanks!
Pics of the coil here
[ March 13, 2004, 12:51 PM: Message edited by: Its all about the Jeep ]Garbage Truck (Time for a real name, taking suggestions) <a href=\"http://www.fsjworld.com/moneymuncher/\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.fsjworld.com/moneymuncher/</a>
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yup thats the right one.most including me have done some creative cutting on the origanal bracket,and mounted with it.85 gw 215k and still going
castrated(de-wooded)360 2" espo springs 31x10.5
89 gw,free,almost legal
She can dance a Cajun rhythm,Jump like a Willys in four wheel drive,
the world is full of kings and queens who blind your eyes and steal your dreams
"Our militarized "law enforcement" has become the standing army our founders feared"
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Not to hijack the post, but couldnt you just use a high performance "can" coil? like a msd blaster? That way you wouldnt have to worry about mounting and finding a plug for the coil.79 Cherokee Chief 401/T18/D20, MPFI fuel injection, hydroboost, otherwise stock.
Future mods: Caddy 500/NV4500/NP205, HP D60 front D60 smooth botom rear, 5.13 gears, 35x12.50's on H1 beadlock wheels. Warn M12000 winch.
93 Wrangler 4.6 stroker/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, front hub conversion/big brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.
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I was mostly looking to fab one if possible cause I wanna get that coil in yesterday, if ya know what I mean. I got what amounts to the basic upgrade installed now, and it smoothed out so much I'm all excited. J&G, don't know much about how all this works to start expounding on the subject, so I don't know. I would tend to think there's a reason they specify that square type coil, also I mounted one of those in the stock config., straight swap style, and if the MSD high performance can coil makes any difference, I never felt it. could be cause of the rest of the stock components. Thanks all!Garbage Truck (Time for a real name, taking suggestions) <a href=\"http://www.fsjworld.com/moneymuncher/\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.fsjworld.com/moneymuncher/</a>
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try this...this has pic by pic info, including the brackett for the coil. tfi upgrade I used the stock brackett from the can coil and just grinded a bit and fit purfect.1983 Jeep Wagoneer Limited<br />Complete rebuilt 360 V8 w/3 year unlimited mile warranty<br />TFI upgrade<br />Bosch Spark Plugs<br />Accell Wires <br />16 Miles a Gallon<br />Single pipe w/Flowmaster muffler series 50<br />31X10.50 Tires on Factory slotted rims<br />Future Upgrade: 4 inch suspension lift.
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Glad I was able to help....thanks to IRBOB for the site
[ March 13, 2004, 11:29 PM: Message edited by: 83 WagDriver ]1983 Jeep Wagoneer Limited<br />Complete rebuilt 360 V8 w/3 year unlimited mile warranty<br />TFI upgrade<br />Bosch Spark Plugs<br />Accell Wires <br />16 Miles a Gallon<br />Single pipe w/Flowmaster muffler series 50<br />31X10.50 Tires on Factory slotted rims<br />Future Upgrade: 4 inch suspension lift.
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simple stupid coil mount . piece of angle iron with about inch and ahalf flats. wide as coil. drill one hole to mount to manifold . use coil as template drill two holes mount coil on edge with appropriate nuts and bolts point coil towards disrtibutor.solder wires and insulate connections with heat shrink tubing slip a piece of split loom over wires. presto your done . observe coil wire polarity as markedhenry
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Nice write-up 83wag. You need to edit your spark plug gap to .044? from .44?.
I fabricated a coil bracket from some angle iron. My bracket relocates the coil forward 3? and up 1?. This gets the coil out in the open with some airflow around it instead of lying on top of the manifold. Then I was able to relocate the float bowl solenoid valve from lying on the manifold, too. Now the plug wires have a nice route to the pass side in open space where the old coil cluster-puck use to be.
steve
?86 J20
SOA, Dana 60's, F/R Lockers
Full High Steer, Ram Assist
Bunch of Other Stuff
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WHAT HE SAID!!!! only thig I did differently was mount the coil side ways My thought was that water which has been know to splash up under my hood.might collect in the connector and cause corrosion .by mounting it sideways water and other things like SALT would drain out.true once the beast got hot it would cook the water out but not the salt.henry
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My understanding was you had to change the coil partly for impedance .
Big thread on the math behind it at the eagles nest, and only one can coil has the proper impedance to work correctly with the stock ECM.
People have had the ECM/MCU fry with coils of the wrong impedance ....
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Originally posted by KensAMCMy understanding was you had to change the coil partly for impedance .
Big thread on the math behind it at the eagles nest, and only one can coil has the proper impedance to work correctly with the stock ECM.
People have had the ECM/MCU fry with coils of the wrong impedance ....
Is that why I smell something getting hot under my hood after I had done this upgrade? Smells like something dusty, and moldy burning.
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