Update on carb problems

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  • supercopjason
    350 Buick
    • Jun 25, 2005
    • 1362

    Update on carb problems

    I adjusted the secondary float yesterday and had it running better. Went and adjusted it more today and i hav a "tinging" noise when i put it under load. Most noticed at WOT. I never though about it because it kinda sounded like an exhaust leak but now sounds louder. The jeep seems to run quite a bit better.
    New Addition: 1982 Cherokee W/T
    Engine: AMC 360 w/ Edel intake, 1.6 rockers, Class III cam, Comp pushrods, Holley truck avenger carb, headman headers, custom built exhaust
    Suspension: 6" Lift 1" shackles up front
    Axles: D44/AMC 20 w/4.88 and detroits


    1985 Grand Wagoneer 360/727/229
    TFI upgrade, 70k orginal miles will trade for the right j-truck.
  • Elliott
    Cowboy Up
    • Jun 22, 2002
    • 12704

    #2
    If it's pinging you've got it leaned out. If you feel the carb is all good at this point you could search up some threads on here about working the advance on the distributor to eliminate the ping. There's a couple of routes to accomplishing that, it sounds like you are getting dialed in though.
    *** I am collecting pics and info on any factory Jeep Dually trucks from the J-Series at the new Jeep Dually Registry.
    ***I can set you up with hydroboost for your brakes: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=106056

    Comment

    • supercopjason
      350 Buick
      • Jun 25, 2005
      • 1362

      #3
      ok checked timing and it was at close to 20* so i moved it back down to about 12 andi still get what sounds like a tapping noise when i give it throttle..

      ok time for the dumb question of the day. When i give it gas while looking at the timing it moved alot. Is it supposed to move? i then hooked it back up to carb vaccume and it still moved just took more gas and longer.

      As far as the carb i am at a point i feel like i have no idea what im doing anymore. just doing the same thing everytime.
      New Addition: 1982 Cherokee W/T
      Engine: AMC 360 w/ Edel intake, 1.6 rockers, Class III cam, Comp pushrods, Holley truck avenger carb, headman headers, custom built exhaust
      Suspension: 6" Lift 1" shackles up front
      Axles: D44/AMC 20 w/4.88 and detroits


      1985 Grand Wagoneer 360/727/229
      TFI upgrade, 70k orginal miles will trade for the right j-truck.

      Comment

      • supercopjason
        350 Buick
        • Jun 25, 2005
        • 1362

        #4
        Is the timing supposed to move?
        New Addition: 1982 Cherokee W/T
        Engine: AMC 360 w/ Edel intake, 1.6 rockers, Class III cam, Comp pushrods, Holley truck avenger carb, headman headers, custom built exhaust
        Suspension: 6" Lift 1" shackles up front
        Axles: D44/AMC 20 w/4.88 and detroits


        1985 Grand Wagoneer 360/727/229
        TFI upgrade, 70k orginal miles will trade for the right j-truck.

        Comment

        • chakaD460
          232 I6
          • Sep 21, 2006
          • 102

          #5
          Originally posted by supercopjason
          Is the timing supposed to move?
          Yes. Did you disconnect the vacuum tube from the dist and plug it while you adjusted the timing.

          Even with the vacuum line removed from the dist. You should see the timing move from the mechanical advance inside the dist.
          87 J10 258/4 spd

          Comment

          • supercopjason
            350 Buick
            • Jun 25, 2005
            • 1362

            #6
            yes removed vac and plugged. then hooked it back up and it moved less hooked up.

            I did go adjust the float levels again. Am i in jeopardy of blowing my engine with this "ticking" noise? It starts off lite but under more throttle it gets pretty loud. it didnt make this noise before but also shot fuel out of the secondary fuel bowl sight hole when i pulled the screw.

            Do i need to just take this thing to a mechanic? Again if anyone wants to make some cash or maybe come out and shoot and have a good time.

            Im freaking out here!!!
            New Addition: 1982 Cherokee W/T
            Engine: AMC 360 w/ Edel intake, 1.6 rockers, Class III cam, Comp pushrods, Holley truck avenger carb, headman headers, custom built exhaust
            Suspension: 6" Lift 1" shackles up front
            Axles: D44/AMC 20 w/4.88 and detroits


            1985 Grand Wagoneer 360/727/229
            TFI upgrade, 70k orginal miles will trade for the right j-truck.

            Comment

            • supercopjason
              350 Buick
              • Jun 25, 2005
              • 1362

              #7
              GGGGGGGRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.......

              I adjusted the secondary float then went for a drive around the block and now i pulled the sight screw and it poured out.
              New Addition: 1982 Cherokee W/T
              Engine: AMC 360 w/ Edel intake, 1.6 rockers, Class III cam, Comp pushrods, Holley truck avenger carb, headman headers, custom built exhaust
              Suspension: 6" Lift 1" shackles up front
              Axles: D44/AMC 20 w/4.88 and detroits


              1985 Grand Wagoneer 360/727/229
              TFI upgrade, 70k orginal miles will trade for the right j-truck.

              Comment

              • supercopjason
                350 Buick
                • Jun 25, 2005
                • 1362

                #8
                ok i cant really tell any difference when i try and adjust the secondary float. The tinging has been bad since i adjusted the secondary float. I am taking the carb to a specialist today.

                Could i have damaged anything with it pinging?
                New Addition: 1982 Cherokee W/T
                Engine: AMC 360 w/ Edel intake, 1.6 rockers, Class III cam, Comp pushrods, Holley truck avenger carb, headman headers, custom built exhaust
                Suspension: 6" Lift 1" shackles up front
                Axles: D44/AMC 20 w/4.88 and detroits


                1985 Grand Wagoneer 360/727/229
                TFI upgrade, 70k orginal miles will trade for the right j-truck.

                Comment

                • newellm
                  230 Tornado
                  • Jul 05, 2007
                  • 21

                  #9
                  Did you ever see the "specialist"?

                  Have you changed your power valve yet? If not you are getting no enrichment under acceleration, therefore running lean which can cause pinging.

                  If you remove your spark plugs, check for grey/silver spots on them, that would be small pieces of your pistons Don't worry, most likely you didn't cause a lot of damage if you didn't drive it for a long time with the pinging.

                  Just changing to an 8.5 power valve should fix your pinging issues and give you more power. From there you will probably want to change to 66 jets and a .35 or .38 accelerator pump squirter. But first start with the power valve, and always only make 1 change at a time.

                  Comment

                  • supercopjason
                    350 Buick
                    • Jun 25, 2005
                    • 1362

                    #10
                    Went and saw the guy everyone around here recomended. He works on all the funny cars and alco racers so he is highly touted. I didnt change the power valve because i was more worried about the pinging blowing my engine up. I did adjust the secondary float to low and ended up dropping the needle and seat so low it wasnt adjusting anymore. Also when he popped the carb open in front of me it was in horrible shape. There was a lot of rust settlement (i guess from the PO but it looks like i need a new tank) and all the o-rings had rotted.
                    New Addition: 1982 Cherokee W/T
                    Engine: AMC 360 w/ Edel intake, 1.6 rockers, Class III cam, Comp pushrods, Holley truck avenger carb, headman headers, custom built exhaust
                    Suspension: 6" Lift 1" shackles up front
                    Axles: D44/AMC 20 w/4.88 and detroits


                    1985 Grand Wagoneer 360/727/229
                    TFI upgrade, 70k orginal miles will trade for the right j-truck.

                    Comment

                    • newellm
                      230 Tornado
                      • Jul 05, 2007
                      • 21

                      #11
                      Heh, having rust in the bowl could certainly cause all sorts of problems. Is he going to rebuild it and give it back to you and help you tune it?

                      Sounds like he should be able to get it running good for you if he does help you tune it. Give us an update when you get it going again.

                      Comment

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