Originally Posted by dusty
I don't like pushing all my parts to thier max. i seek out the hy turbo because they are cheap usually $300 +/- it has a 54mm compressor on the early models and a 9 cm exhaust housing, the heavier compressor requires a little more pressure to get it spinning but it will push more air once it gets going and the smaller exhaust housing helps increase the drive pressre on the exhaust side to get it spinning. you have to add fuel to create the additional heat & pressure also. it's a balancing act when you want more air. i could change exhaust housings but the hy is a newer design and seems to fit the 4bt really well. id pay $100-$150 for an aftermarket exhaust housing and id still have an old turbo design and turbo or i can sell mine for $150-200 and buy anhy and have more potential down the road.
I get the bulk of what you are saying so you're doing fine explaining. Maybe I:m the one coming up short. I don:t mind making some non stock modifications, I just didn:t want to get into changing pumps, injectors, doing head studs, O-ringing the head etc ect. I don:t have the desire to go after the kind of performance I think necessitates those kinds of changes.
Swapping in a new turbo I don:t mind as long as the cascade effect doesn:t get too extensive. OTOH, if I can jsut change the housing, maybe the gov. spring, tweak the screws etc, and get the numbers I'm after without it running on the ragged edge I'm fine with it.
I don:t intend to be putzing around with this motor on a never ending quest for more power and torque. I want to get what I want/need and then put the thing to work and be done with it.
83-ish V8 CJ/7 SOA 37" MTR
79 CJ7 Q/T, 258, 31's
77 CJ5, V8, 33's
94 Cherokee, 31's
68 J-3000, 232, 3 on the tree (under the knife soon)
78 J10, 360, Q/T, auto. Sacrificial lamb.
78 J20, 360, Q/T auto. Future unknown.
75 J20, 360, Q/T, auto. Reprieved sacrifice.
73 J20, 232, D20, 3spd. Axle sacrifice