1985 Wagoneer 6bt, NV4500, NP205, D60 Front, and 14 Bolt Rear

[ross80truck]

Okay, so I guess that it is time for me to start a build thread. Before I get into the technical and pictures I should forewarn any readers that this build is going to take a while. I own a machine shop, just bought my first house and have a 1 year old son. So, between all that I do not have a whole lot of free time, but I will post as progress is made.

Now for the details. I have a 1985 Wagoneer that the body is very straight on except for the grill and drivers side front fender. My goal is to install a 6BT with the inline pump, a NV4500 transmission mated to an NP205 transfer case. I am going to run a D60 in the front with a Corporate 14 Bolt in the rear. Over the last year or so I have acquired pretty much all the major pieces. I have motor, tranny, transfer case, axles and obviously the jeep already.

Yesterday we pulled the jeep inside and put it up on the rack and started dropping the axles. The wagoneer axles are going to get reused on my dad's YJ that is getting a 4BT installed in it. Here are pictures of what it looks like when we started and where we are at now.



After the axles were pulled.

[jMedia]

You gonna use the wagoneer's frame? Looking forward to watching!

[Eugene 1]

cool!

[Achilles]

Man that is awesome to have a shop with a 2 post lift. Subscribed for the journey.

[ross80truck]

You gonna use the wagoneer's frame? Looking forward to watching!

Yes, I am planning on using the wagoneer frame. It will get some reinforcement though. My dad owns a Diesel Fuel Injection shop that builds pumps, injectors and turbo chargers. So, needless to say, the pump and injectors are far from stock. I am waiting on the turbo until I get everything up and running. Then we will make a decision on what turbo I go with. So, the frame is going to need to be pretty strong to handle all the torque.

[jaber]

Subscribed to watch...

[budojeepr]

Watching also.

I have a similar priority list. God, family, friends, me. Makes decisionmaking much easier!

[Bjtgtr]

Good stuff

I didn't see it mentioned in your first post about the 6bt, is it a 12 or 24 valve unit?

[Resbum]

Woo Hoo. Subscribed.

Man, there have been times when I would have killed for a lift.

Sounds like you have the knowledge, equipment, and resources to get the job done right. Congrats.

About the only piece of advice I can think to offer is to buy a roll of 2" blue painters tape for your floor, a plumb bob, and make a water level. Then, be absolutely anal about marking axle, hub, and suspension mount postions on your floor and measuring six more times after you think you've measured enough times. By doing that my suspension and axles came in more centered and square then I ever hoped and prayed for.

Oh yeah, if you haven't done it and it's not to late, seriously think about temporarily rehanging your axles even if you only slide the bolts through holes, no nuts. Then put all the weight on the axles, level the frame, drop a plumb bob to the centerline of the axle tubes, and scribe a line on the frame rail at that point. It will make life much, much easier to get your new axles centered in the wheel wells. It's amazing how glaringly obvious a wheel not centered in the wheel well is.

Good luck. I look forward to following your build.

Resbum

[ross80truck]

Good stuff

I didn't see it mentioned in your first post about the 6bt, is it a 12 or 24 valve unit?

The motor is a 12 valve with the inline pump.

[ross80truck]

Woo Hoo. Subscribed.

Man, there have been times when I would have killed for a lift.

Sounds like you have the knowledge, equipment, and resources to get the job done right. Congrats.

About the only piece of advice I can think to offer is to buy a roll of 2" blue painters tape for your floor, a plumb bob, and make a water level. Then, be absolutely anal about marking axle, hub, and suspension mount postions on your floor and measuring six more times after you think you've measured enough times. By doing that my suspension and axles came in more centered and square then I ever hoped and prayed for.

Oh yeah, if you haven't done it and it's not to late, seriously think about temporarily rehanging your axles even if you only slide the bolts through holes, no nuts. Then put all the weight on the axles, level the frame, drop a plumb bob to the centerline of the axle tubes, and scribe a line on the frame rail at that point. It will make life much, much easier to get your new axles centered in the wheel wells. It's amazing how glaringly obvious a wheel not centered in the wheel well is.

Good luck. I look forward to following your build.

Resbum

Resbum, thanks for all the advice. I have definetely been studying yours and lobie's build a lot before I started mine. I have a few different packaging ideas for mine, but I will deffinetly continue to be referencing your build thread for ideas and help. Yes, the lift is awesome. I have had it about 4 years now and I am spoiled. I only paid $2k for it new. It is not the nicest one out there, but I have never had any issues with it.

[Bill Moore]

excellent build, what ratios will you run in the axles? 4.56?

[ross80truck]

excellent build, what ratios will you run in the axles? 4.56?

I am going to run 4.10 for now. According to my gear calculations, with running a 35" tire and the nv4500 at 70 MPH my engine RPM should be about 2100. Which should be perfect for the 6BT. The axles I have came from under a 1980 Chevy K30 and already had 4.10s in them. So, that worked out pretty well.

[Mikel]

I am going to run 4.10 for now. According to my gear calculations, with running a 35" tire and the nv4500 at 70 MPH my engine RPM should be about 2100. Which should be perfect for the 6BT. The axles I have came from under a 1980 Chevy K30 and already had 4.10s in them. So, that worked out pretty well.

That is a nice como. I built that setup in a friend's M715 (getrag vs NV4500) and it does work very well. No lack of torque in any gear but still cruises well on the highway.

[ross80truck]

Here is today's progress. Got the front clip off and we are now ready to pull the motor, transmission, and transfer case out. I was surprised, pulling the front clip was not that hard to do. This will give me a lot more room now as I install the new motor and motor mounts and such. Now I just have to find a place to put the front clip to keep it safe and out of the way.