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-   -   74 Chief Restore (http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=178154)

autogatto 02-15-2016 12:13 PM

You can find online, probably on jeepforum.com some threads that show per each year a way to decode the trim as well.
Otherwise you can rely of info that you could gather here.
I'll post in a couple of minutes the trim code for your 74.

autogatto 02-15-2016 12:25 PM

here we go.







bkilby 02-15-2016 12:52 PM

So is it the "482" on that tag that tells me WBS Green?

autogatto 02-15-2016 01:38 PM

That is correct.

The first line has the sales order in the left of the tag and the special sales order to the right (if there's any)
The second line has a first character that was an internal Jeep code and that I've never been able to decipher, then the paint code in the middle, then the trim code to the right
The third line has the VIN and to the right the model number

In your case you have more characters in the second line. .....one of the mystery of Jeep that was never consistent.

Maybe somebody might be able to tell you more about those extra ones but I doubt it.
As said, in your case 519 and 482 are the codes that matter to you.

Alex

autogatto 02-15-2016 01:42 PM


bkilby 02-18-2016 10:49 PM

OK. So I finally get the Serpentine kit to put on this rig. Let me tell you the machine work is awesome. Very beautiful work. However along with any custom work comes issues. After spending that past couple of days dealing with belt alignment, spacer issues etc., we finally have it where it's going to work. One important note for those considering the same mod is...not all York AC mounts are created equal. The one larger, beefier bracket needs one mounting ear cut off to allow the kit to bolt up correctly. Not a big deal, just make sure you make a new top plate to secure the compressor from vibration.

One thing I do need to do is have the inside of the Alt pulley machined down. It's so thick and burly that once I installed it with the proper spacers etc for belt alignment, I can't put the nut and lock washer on. I need enough machine work to accommodate the lock washer So, I'll get it machined down about 1/4" to fix that issue. There were other issues here and there but it seems to have come together. Keep in mind I can't fire up the engine yet.

Gas tank skid was also finished. The gas tank is installed and now waiting for plumbing.

One hang up right now is, the PO in all his brilliant wisdom literally tore everything apart without keeping all the parts. There is a sealing washer I need for the oil pressure bypass valve that I can't seem to find. 5/8" ID. I need to find that before I can move on and get closer to starting the engine. Oiy! A few pics.

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bkilby 02-24-2016 11:22 PM

Not much to report right now. Been busy with work and dealing with small stuff. Ended up making new fuel lines from the tank to engine. Power steering hoses are in, new heater core purchased (but not installed yet), rear driveshaft is in but the front had the wrong yoke. Found another yoke in my arsenal and made it fit. New unobtainable body mounts are ordered but don't know if they're going to work yet....because I don't have them. Lol!

And as goofy as it sounds, I couldn't figure out why my steering tie rod and drag link were going to collide if I drove it until I realized the front springs were in backwards. Pushed the axle too far forward. Lol! Well, at least I hope that's all it is. Tomorrow... Oh! I ended up ordering new Urethane motor and tranny mounts from BJ's and put those in today. Worked great!

It's the little things that take time. We're trying to work past those.

So, I'm thinking about the body now. Leave it old and patina looking or get it painted? If I get it painted, do I leave it green and white or go for a custom color? I like the green and white but I can think of a half dozen colors that would look awesome too.

KilroyJC 02-25-2016 08:07 AM

When I hit the Powerball----
 
I want a shop.

A BIG shop.

with ALL the toys.

(ahhh, the joys of condo living. . .)

TexasJ10 02-25-2016 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bkilby
OK. So I finally get the Serpentine kit to put on this rig. Let me tell you the machine work is awesome. Very beautiful work. However along with any custom work comes issues. After spending that past couple of days dealing with belt alignment, spacer issues etc., we finally have it where it's going to work.

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I agree with you on the quality of the parts and the difficulty to fit the serpentine kit. I concluded that water pumps are not made with any particular tolerances when it comes to the bolt bosses and it throws things off.

I am curious why you decided to mount the power steering idler pulley in the "up" position rather than in the "down" position where it has greater belt contact with the water pump and power steering pulleys? It also comes pretty close the the distributor in the "up" position. Bull tear recommended it in the "down" position when I talked to them even though it fits both ways and in one of their photos they have it in the up position. Beautiful build by the way!

bkilby 02-25-2016 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexasJ10
I agree with you on the quality of the parts and the difficulty to fit the serpentine kit. I concluded that water pumps are not made with any particular tolerances when it comes to the bolt bosses and it throws things off.



So true. That and I didn't get the proper spacers with the kit anyhow.

Quote:

I am curious why you decided to mount the power steering idler pulley in the "up" position rather than in the "down" position where it has greater belt contact with the water pump and power steering pulleys? It also comes pretty close the the distributor in the "up" position. Bull tear recommended it in the "down" position when I talked to them even though it fits both ways and in one of their photos they have it in the up position. Beautiful build by the way!

Actually, we were just talking about that yesterday. The only real reason is we were using a straight edge to check and correct the PS alignment and that's how it was mounted in the only photo available. But it will end up in the down position for the obvious reasons. And thanks! :D

TexasJ10 02-25-2016 03:55 PM

It will take a longer belt in the down position. Mine took a Gates k061058.

bkilby 02-25-2016 04:23 PM

Good info. Thanks! I'll start with that and get one size up and down just in case.

bkilby 02-25-2016 05:26 PM

TexasJ10, what did you do about the heater hose behind the alternator? It's a 3/4" hose and no room for it. Did you have the larger York bracket or the smaller one?

bkilby 02-27-2016 04:12 PM

Got the serpentine pulley flipped around yesterday and you were right TexasJ10, It's a K061058.

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I received the Daystar body bushings today and of course, they don't fit so I made them fit. :D I had to drill all the frame holes out to 1.25". I ended up going with a CJ7 bushing with a 1" lift built in. Dropped the body on for a quick test fit and all looks good. Gotta order 2 more bushings though. Man, I'm beat too! It's a PIA to do this by yourself on a Saturday! Lol!

Edit: I actually need 3 bushing sets. The one front frame bushing for the CJ is actually darn close to what I need for the radiator support bushings (x2). I might have to sand them down a bit but not a big deal. I'll order the bushings on Monday now that I know what I need. Whew! This part was difficult as no one wanted to share dimensions. Not Energy, Prothane or Daystar. Well, I take that back. Daystar did but then referred me to a different company that can help better. Oh well, it's done. So for those of you with a similar rig, get the CJ7 bushing kit, get two more of the larger bushings and 1 more of the fronts. Be prepared to open the holes a lot. From 7/8", 1.0" and 1.125" up to 1.25" IIRC, this is the same hole size as the later model GC specs.
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bkilby 02-27-2016 09:48 PM

Another issue I saw today was the clearance between the alternator and the battery bracket. I'll modify the bracket to give more clearance but holy cow, talk about close! :)

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cu4whln 02-27-2016 10:33 PM

Well Bradly . .

Now that you've gone THIS far.. time to detail under the hood some don't ya think?

I'm ok with the outer patina, but underhood? It's a FSJ - you ARE gonna be under there more than you know . . . Just sayin'

I'll get your dimensions tomorrow btw. My FSJ stance with 4" lift, 33" tires .. as you requested.

Edit: To the top of alum plate on sill: 23 3/4"




bkilby 02-28-2016 09:05 AM

Oh trust me, it will get detailed. Front fenders and core support are coming off. Heater core, brake booster etc is all coming off. The inner fenders and core support (got buy a new one from the bone yard) will get sand blasted and powder coated Satin Black. The firewall will get cleaned and waxed. Heater core box, brake booster and anything else attached to the firewall will get painted. We're going to start eliminating wiring that doesn't need to be there too. What a mess the wiring is. Lol!

Your Jeep looks great. Those rear flares really open up the back quite a bit.

bkilby 03-01-2016 06:21 PM

Went to the junk yard and picked up some fenders and a core support. This is why...

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bkilby 03-01-2016 06:28 PM

Grafting in a new piece.

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rlm2550 03-01-2016 07:39 PM

Lucky guys!!!
 
I am so jealous of you guys that can go the salvage yards and pick up FSJ parts! Here, they have been long gone, due to rust I suppose. I live in a town, population of 90K, and I've only see one other FSJ besides mine...in years!! Its a gold truck with a rusted out bed.. One of these days I'll make a pilgrimage to Denver and see what I can find!!!:D


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