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-   -   York compressor failure.. Brand freaking new unit! (http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=184110)

Beach_Dude 11-14-2017 02:31 PM

York compressor failure.. Brand freaking new unit!
 
So, after doing everything to a Tee, brand new EVERYTHING, including a Brand Freaking NEW York compressor, not a rebuild, All new custom hoses, new evaporator, Evap switch, condenser & Dyer, this happens...



I'm almost down to the second can of R12, gauge is high, around 50PSI on the low side because I'm charging, almost 4 - 8 OZ of freon more to go to get to factory specs for the compressor and unit, then all of a sudden, BOOM!

Cover my face, fear set in, shut the motor down instantly, and there's dye ALL OVER THE BACK SIDE OF THE UNIT!

No hoses blown, nothing. So, it's either the rear seal of the compressor or the washer on the oil drain plug failed.

I AM SO PISSED OFF RIGHT NOW!!!

bkilby 11-14-2017 05:51 PM

The York has a blow off valve in the rear. It blows when there's too much head pressure.

Beach_Dude 11-14-2017 05:53 PM

So, just clean the dye off and it's good?

Probably too wet on the charge could cause that?

bkilby 11-14-2017 05:58 PM

In case you want to know more about Yorks.....


http://tccimfg.com/wp-content/upload...014-12-16P.pdf

bkilby 11-14-2017 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beach_Dude
So, just clean the dye off and it's good?

Probably too wet on the charge could cause that?


Too much freon maybe. And don't add freon with oil. New Yorks come with oil already. Wouldn't hurt to check the oil level though.

babywag 11-14-2017 07:48 PM

That’s not what happened to mine...
Mine was DOA, wouldn’t build pressure and NOISY.
Metal in oil when I drained it as well.

Did you flush/check new hoses? Mine had debris in them, would have easily plugged the expansion valve had I not found. Little pieces of hose(s) from cutting/installing hose ends?

Beach_Dude 11-14-2017 10:34 PM

Connected everything back up and ran a test on pressure at idle.

Roughly 80+ on low side

Roughly 90+ on high side.

Compressor officially dead?

Curly5759 11-15-2017 08:54 PM

I had a brand new York compressor fail after only 20 miles. I had drained and refilled the compressor with the correct type/amount of oil. After 20 miles it was still cooling but the unit was knocking badly. Had to replace it. Since then all is good.

Beach_Dude 11-16-2017 10:22 PM

All AC people, would 80+ on low side and roughly 90+ on high side be a dead compressor?

Because I'll do another swap this weekend if needed.

Somebody chime in.

babywag 11-17-2017 09:01 AM

How exactly are you charging system?

Beach_Dude 11-20-2017 09:33 PM

How am I charging the system..?

I mean, like step by step or the method?

High and low sides connected, cans of r12, and filling system until specific levels are reached. :P

I'm probably going to replace the high side service valve(s) now sice the high side unit leaks like made!

I've found that earlier mustang parts are identical.

Does anybody know if the suction and high side both use the same size diameter flare fitting?

Obviously I'm going to find out, but need to wait till I get the system evacuated.

If anyone has a direct part reference, shout it out!

FSJunkie 11-21-2017 01:42 AM

A couple things come to my mind.

One: I have never seen a pressure relief valve built into a York compressor. I've seen them on the bottom of receiver/dryers, but not on the compressors. Even so, those relief valves are set for 400-600 PSI.

Two: You know the system has to be evacuated for at least 20 minutes to remove all the air before you charge it with refrigerant, right? A system containing refrigerant and air won't work. You need refrigerant only.

Three: 80-90 PSI on both the suction and discharge sides of the compressor is normal when the system is not running. The pressure of a non-running system is determined by the ambient temperature, not the charge level. A running system will be around 20 PSI on the suction side and 150 PSI on the discharge side, depending on a lot of things.

Four: The most accurate way to charge one of these systems is by watching the sight glass on the line between the receiver/dryer and the expansion valve. The glass needs to be clear (liquid only). Any bubbles mean the system is either low or contains air. These expansion valve systems are VERY tolerant on their charge level. Basically so long as there is enough refrigerant to maintain a constant flow of liquid to the expansion valve and not so much refrigerant that the receiver/dryer is completely full, then it will work perfectly. There is no "It cools slightly worse because it is low on charge" with these. They basically either cool to full capacity, or don't cool at all.

Beach_Dude 11-21-2017 10:10 AM

Would it be safe to assume that the AC clutch being engaged and turning, with standard York Compressor charging noises would indicated that the compressor is on or could it still be off?

:rolleyes:

Still curious on the diameter of the flare side differences between the high and low side service valves though... Totally should have taken note on that when I had them made. :banghead:

Beach_Dude 11-22-2017 10:16 PM

Just in case anyone is interested, here's a supplier for a ton of service valves and the two I purchased:

R12 Tube O-Ring Backseat Valve With # 8 Male Flare Thread
https://www.apairinc.com/shopping/pr....aspx?i=129768

R12 Tube O-Ring Backseat Valve With # 10 Male Flare Thread
https://www.apairinc.com/shopping/pr....aspx?i=129777

TexasJ10 11-23-2017 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beach_Dude
Would it be safe to assume that the AC clutch being engaged and turning, with standard York Compressor charging noises would indicated that the compressor is on or could it still be off?

:rolleyes:

Still curious on the diameter of the flare side differences between the high and low side service valves though... Totally should have taken note on that when I had them made. :banghead:


I'm not sure what you are asking here. From your post below you identify the valves you purchased as being low side #10 (5/8"), and high side #8 (1/2").

TexasJ10 11-23-2017 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beach_Dude
Would it be safe to assume that the AC clutch being engaged and turning, with standard York Compressor charging noises would indicated that the compressor is on or could it still be off?

:rolleyes:

Still curious on the diameter of the flare side differences between the high and low side service valves though... Totally should have taken note on that when I had them made. :banghead:


I'm not sure what you are asking here. From your post below you identify the valves you purchased as being low side #10 (5/8"), and high side #8 (1/2").

Beach_Dude 11-23-2017 11:57 AM

Well, I'm replacing the compressor because it isn't working.

But my question was what the diameter of the flare fittings were, which after getting the system evacuated at my local ac shop, discovered they were #10 and #8.

Since there's no replacement or NOS for jeep service valves, I posted what I found above which appears to be a direct and interchangeable part.

I'll keep you guys posted on it.

TexasJ10 11-23-2017 06:35 PM

Thanks. This has been a good thread

Beach_Dude 12-27-2017 12:43 PM

Oh the :o:o:o:oing joys of rebuilding this :o:o:o:oing AC system.

Everything is officially new. EVERYTHING!!!

While charging, we weighed in freon at 2.25lb, and there were bubbles. So, we upped it to 2.4 . No bubbled.

But now it seems the brand new freaking expansion valve isn't working or there's a minor clog somewhere in the brand :o:o:o:oing new system.

Regardless, it's winter, I'm not worrying about it for a few months and blah. I'll just tackle it every so often.

As for the service valves, FREAKING AWESOME-SAUCE FIND!!! They matched the original factory service valves to a T!!! So stoked...

However, I did remove the quick-disconnect internals and will order replacements that were used on the original Ford Mustangs, same piece if I'm not mistaken. Anyone else just delete the quick disconnect internals?

FSJunkie 12-27-2017 11:58 PM

Moisture in the system will freeze and plug the expansion valve. Extremely high discharge pressure and extremely low suction pressure indicates a clogged system.

A bad expansion valve can destroy the compressor if the valve is stuck fully open. It will flow way too much refrigerant into the evaporator. The refrigerant leaving the evaporator will still be liquid when it enters the compressor and this will blow the valves out of the compressor. It literally shatters the hardened steel valves into little pieces of shrapnel that careen around inside the aluminum compressor and absolutely destroy it. I lost one compressor that way.

Seriously forget about charging it by weight. Different receiver/dryers have different capacities and you've replaced the receiver/dryer. Get a sight glass on the discharge line between the receiver/dryer and the expansion valve and charge it until the bubbles go away. You'll ned that sight glass in the future because your system will have a slow leak and need topped off every year or so. You can't top-off by weight. I have three of these A/C systems in my garage and restored and service them all myself. Trust me on this.


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