Won't turn off

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  • Clay Balke
    232 I6
    • Dec 16, 2009
    • 99

    Won't turn off

    Had Distributor replaced, plugs, wires. Started this morning but would not turn off by key. Had to pull a hot wire in order to kill it. Wiring is a spaghetti bowl under hood. Any thoughts of where to start?
  • wiley-moeracing
    350 Buick
    • Feb 15, 2010
    • 1430

    #2
    possibly alternator or wiring to it.

    Comment

    • tgreese
      • May 29, 2003
      • 11682

      #3
      The exciter wire from the ignition switch to the alternator can back-feed into the ignition switch and cause what you describe. Jeep uses a resistance wire to the alternator to limit the exciter current to a trickle, too little to back-feed. Usual fix is to add a diode in the exciter wire.

      So did you do the work or did someone help you, or? Tell us more about what was done.
      Tim Reese
      Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
      Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
      Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
      GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
      ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

      Comment

      • Clay Balke
        232 I6
        • Dec 16, 2009
        • 99

        #4
        Won't turn off

        Had a shop replace the control module the other year, ran great for a hunting season-5 months. Went bad again, returned it to shop and he changed the stock distributor to an HEI. Now, this is a non street legal '86 GW purely hunting vehicle. The wiring under hood is deplorable, previous owner left it in the woods for dead. I bought it for $250, drove it on a trailer and here I am some 8 years later.
        Sorry, got long winded. I did notice the very small black wire under the solenoid was not making good contact. Could this be the problem? It did turn off, after I made better contact there. Needs a good connector.

        Comment

        • FSJunkie
          The Nigel Tufnel of the FSJ world.
          • Jan 09, 2011
          • 4040

          #5
          Call your doctor if it runs for more than four hours.
          '72 Jeep Wagoneer Custom, 360 V8

          I love how arguements end as soon as Ristow comments. Ristow is right...again.

          Comment

          • rang-a-stang
            Administrator
            • Oct 31, 2016
            • 5512

            #6
            Originally posted by FSJunkie
            Call your doctor if it runs for more than four hours.
            HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!
            Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
            (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
            (8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums​)
            79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
            (Cherokee Build Thread)
            11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
            09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
            00 Baby Cherokee

            Comment

            • FSJunkie
              The Nigel Tufnel of the FSJ world.
              • Jan 09, 2011
              • 4040

              #7
              Sounds like the classic case of the headlights stopped working so the owner decided to unbundle and rewire the entire vehicle trying to make the headlights work, so now nothing works and the wiring is a complete mess. Next come the hot wires jammed directly into the positive battery terminal.

              Yep. The worst thing that can happen to a vehicle's wiring is people who don't know proper....keyword proper....electrical diagnostics and repair.

              I realize I'm being completely unhelpful here, but you need more humor in your life. We all do.
              '72 Jeep Wagoneer Custom, 360 V8

              I love how arguements end as soon as Ristow comments. Ristow is right...again.

              Comment

              • tgreese
                • May 29, 2003
                • 11682

                #8
                It's almost impossible to diagnose problems like this over the internet, especially since the wiring is no longer like the original scheme. You need to have the car in front of you. If the installer of the HEI won't correct his mistake in wiring up the HEI, you'll need to trace out where the power is coming from when the key is off and the engine is running. As mentioned, the alternator exciter wire is a good place to start. Try disconnecting the exciter wire and see if the engine still runs on.
                Tim Reese
                Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
                Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
                Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
                GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
                ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

                Comment

                • mwood65
                  258 I6
                  • Jul 17, 2017
                  • 477

                  #9
                  Originally posted by FSJunkie
                  Call your doctor if it runs for more than four hours.




                  My wife likes it if mine runs on for more than 4 hours!

                  Comment

                  • Clay Balke
                    232 I6
                    • Dec 16, 2009
                    • 99

                    #10
                    Doctor

                    Thanks for the humor and input. Going to get started again today. Muffler job today and look into the wiring again. If run on persists, I will try the exciter wire test.

                    Comment

                    • Clay Balke
                      232 I6
                      • Dec 16, 2009
                      • 99

                      #11
                      Blue pill

                      A diode is needed. Going to look at auto parts store, but doubt it. Guy from NAPA had never heard of this before, no surprise there......

                      Comment

                      • tgreese
                        • May 29, 2003
                        • 11682

                        #12
                        Radieaux Shaque, or any other local electronics store. Choose by amperage needed. If you give me the amps rating you need, I can point you to what you need online, but shipping will be maybe 10x the price of a handful of diodes.
                        Tim Reese
                        Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
                        Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
                        Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
                        GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
                        ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

                        Comment

                        • Clay Balke
                          232 I6
                          • Dec 16, 2009
                          • 99

                          #13
                          Mystery

                          Ordered diodes from radio shack.
                          Installed new muffler, adapters, started right up .
                          Much quieter, short test drive and muffler connection from engine came loose. There is an A on one end and a B one the other. Assuming A towards motor and B tailpipe?
                          Also, engine turned off right away, but realized the alternator clip was not connected. How did engine fire up and run (weak) but ran???

                          Comment

                          • rang-a-stang
                            Administrator
                            • Oct 31, 2016
                            • 5512

                            #14
                            I assume you used clamps to hold the muffler together? If so, you need to REAAAAaaaalllly clamp them on. You need to clamp them so hard that clamp pinches into both the muffler and the pipe in/over it.

                            Your rig will run without the alternator hooked up, it just runs on battery power.
                            Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
                            (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
                            (8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums​)
                            79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
                            (Cherokee Build Thread)
                            11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
                            09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
                            00 Baby Cherokee

                            Comment

                            • tgreese
                              • May 29, 2003
                              • 11682

                              #15
                              Usually the markings are for cutting the pipes to length. They can make the pipes fit more than one model that way.

                              Double clamps are a good practice, one turned 90 degrees to the other. Especially for a rig that will see many rocks and logs and such.

                              If the alternator is unplugged, it's not charging. You will be running off the battery until it's very flat - takes almost nothing from the battery if all you are driving is ignition. Starting takes a lot of juice, but running does not.
                              Tim Reese
                              Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
                              Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
                              Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
                              GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
                              ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

                              Comment

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