Short in Rear Window Switch or wiring?

[puckettj]

I've read all the tech write-ups on rear window issues but haven't found my particular issue (At least I don't think I have). Have had the '89GW for about 2 months now. The rear window key switch worked fine when I got it. Dashboard switch worked too.

About 2 weeks ago the rear key switch would lower it or at least work for 3-10 seconds. At that point I couldn't get the window back up from that switch. Also, the power door locks, rear wiper and power seats stopped working. The dash switch continued to work without issue.

After a few minutes, everything begins working again. At least until you do the rear key switch again.

This weekend, all those things stopped working without the doing the key in the rear switch. I pulled the breaker/relay out of the fuse box and it was so hot, it burned the tip of my finger (Have blister to prove it).

Dashboard switch continues to work.

My gut is that there is a major short in the wiring somewhere in the tailgate, yes? Or could the rear key switch contain the short? Please let me know what I should be looking for...I don't want to take the whole thing apart if I don't have to

Thanks for any advice...
RP

[Tripwire]

a ugly spot is the bend in the cable harness where it folds while opening and closing the tailgate - that would be a good place to start

you may have to cut open the plastic sheath covering the wires to inspect it.

IIRC the windows and all the malfunctioning other parts as well run to a fusable link on the starting relay it may be blown and ocasionally making contact

[puckettj]

Good info..thanks...

[Rich88]

I pulled the breaker/relay out of the fuse box and it was so hot, it burned the tip of my finger (Have blister to prove it).

The breaker works by excess current developing heat until a contact arm warps and automatically opens up the connection. After it cools down, the arm goes back and electrical contact is made again.

Since it only happens when you actuate the key switch, I'd say there's a short or very low resistance to ground at the key or after it, going to the window motor. And if the motor itself was shorting out, you'd have the same problem when using the front switch.

If the short were between the key and 12V wiring to the front then the breaker would have cycled open/shut until it finally gave up and opened for good or blew out a fusible link.