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Here you will see a pic of my exaust and lift kit. http://photos.yahoo.com/irbob7
While I was installing my high flow exaust system i encountered the need to see if one of my body mounts would come off without a fight. It did fight. The nut broke it's hold on the frame.
So what is going to be the best way to get to this nut which is hidden inside the frame?
Exaust system will be completed in about 20 minutes after I get of this time robing computer. Can't wait to here it's new sound.
DLyons wrote:
Step 1- Get a flathead screwdriver
Step 2- Get a big hammer
Step 3- Make sure no small children are in earshot.
Step 4- Commence the beating.
Sorry buddy, there ain't no easy way!
irbob wrote:
So just punch a hole in the frame and bend it back?
Can I go through the floor or will I still have frame to contend with?
River Beast wrote:
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by irbob:
So just punch a hole in the frame and bend it back?
Can I go through the floor or will I still have frame to contend with?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I did what dlyons did... you may want to try the floor... you can always cover it up with the carpet... if my memory is correct, I used a 1 1/4" wrench on the busted blind nuts.
Good luck and I hope (and pray) that it's the only wone that gives you trouble... my 2 in the rear took me close to 2 hours to ripp out. I even welded in new metal and welded the blind nuts back to the new plates.
Keep us up to speed on the progress.
Ray Stephens wrote:
You could use an "easy out" but the name is not usually how it is. If the bolt threads or the hole is packed with rust(on a FSJ? NO)
hose it down generously with a rust penetrator or marvel mystery oil. I have found if you prolong the project and spray twice a day for a few days. Pray alot,try it again and keep a large hammer and cold chisel handy just in case the above doesn't work. GOOD LUCK.
River Beast wrote:
What irbob is describing is the blindnut inside the frame breaking it's tack weld and spinning. The bolt itself is in tact but spins freely and won't come out until he grabs the blindnut somehow.
Iknow he has GENEROUSLY soaked the bolts days ago... right irbob?
ClarkGriswald wrote:
Can you cut out a hole above it with a dremel enough to get a socket in there?
River Beast wrote:
Jason,
You can use a dremel to cut open the floor but the blindnuts are square... sockets won't work... plus it will have the remains of the tack weld on it, too.
MonsterMash wrote:
I've been reading the body lift posts here and dreading my own lift for just this reason. How many of these types of nuts are on an '80s GW? I think I remember reading a post or a tech article that said only a couple of the nuts are really inaccessible. With my luck they will all break, spin, cross-thread or have damaged threads so Irbob please give us a play-by-play.
scotty wrote:
luckily the only ones i had trouble with were the rear 2.all the rest came out relatively easy. i cut a small access square above each of mine. i also added 2 more body bounts between those rear 2 on the rear xmember,so i had to drill 2 more holes.
i cant remember if this was mentioned by anyone in previous posts,but once you break them all loose,youll want to leave one side loose,but dont remove the bolts-just loosen them up almost all the way. remove the other side,install spacers,installbolts,tighten,but dont snug them down yet.now remove other side,install spacers,install bolts.snug everything,then tighten. if you remove all the bolts at once,you may accidentally shift the body away from the holes,and then have one helluva time getting it to line up again...
JERRY88GW wrote:
What body lift did you use? Does it replace the bushings as well? My bushings are shot!
Also, what kind of exhaust did you use?
irbob wrote:
Click on the link to see a pic of my exaust and body lift. I got the Performance Parts lift and made a custom exaust with the Turbo II muffler. Sounds really nice. I like it. Put I put the specs on the "Body Lift" post.
The lift does not replace the current mounts. I guess the lift goes right on top of the factory mounts. At lest thats how Jeepers are installing them. I asked the same question on my "Body Lift" post.
FSJ79wag wrote:
I used the performance acessories lift also.I went with the 2" and did not have any problems.Make sure you do several rust penetrator sprays before(I did 2 apps for 3 days before) and to do like Scotty said and make sure to do it one side at a time leaving the other side loose but threaded.The lift was about a 2 hour process by myself.Just my 2cents.
Ralph wrote:
Are OEM replacement rubber bushings available? Mine look to be cracked, not completely dry-rotted, and I'd like to replace them just for PM.
irbob wrote:
Well guys i'm picking away at it. So far 3 of the 6 I've tried won't come out without a frame modification. I bought an air chisle with a neat metal shreading tool that I call my FSJeep can opener . Good thing I at least have axess to a welder and all that welding expieriance aught to come in handy. Give me a couple more days of work hear, work there and it should be done. Hope I don't find any sardines in their.
FYI: Spring pads 50 cents each through www.espo.com got mine coming.
AcelaTech wrote:
A 12 point socket will work on a square nut!
[ May 24, 2002: Message edited by: irbob ]</p>
While I was installing my high flow exaust system i encountered the need to see if one of my body mounts would come off without a fight. It did fight. The nut broke it's hold on the frame.
So what is going to be the best way to get to this nut which is hidden inside the frame?
Exaust system will be completed in about 20 minutes after I get of this time robing computer. Can't wait to here it's new sound.
DLyons wrote:
Step 1- Get a flathead screwdriver
Step 2- Get a big hammer
Step 3- Make sure no small children are in earshot.
Step 4- Commence the beating.
Sorry buddy, there ain't no easy way!
irbob wrote:
So just punch a hole in the frame and bend it back?
Can I go through the floor or will I still have frame to contend with?
River Beast wrote:
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by irbob:
So just punch a hole in the frame and bend it back?
Can I go through the floor or will I still have frame to contend with?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I did what dlyons did... you may want to try the floor... you can always cover it up with the carpet... if my memory is correct, I used a 1 1/4" wrench on the busted blind nuts.
Good luck and I hope (and pray) that it's the only wone that gives you trouble... my 2 in the rear took me close to 2 hours to ripp out. I even welded in new metal and welded the blind nuts back to the new plates.
Keep us up to speed on the progress.
Ray Stephens wrote:
You could use an "easy out" but the name is not usually how it is. If the bolt threads or the hole is packed with rust(on a FSJ? NO)
hose it down generously with a rust penetrator or marvel mystery oil. I have found if you prolong the project and spray twice a day for a few days. Pray alot,try it again and keep a large hammer and cold chisel handy just in case the above doesn't work. GOOD LUCK.
River Beast wrote:
What irbob is describing is the blindnut inside the frame breaking it's tack weld and spinning. The bolt itself is in tact but spins freely and won't come out until he grabs the blindnut somehow.
Iknow he has GENEROUSLY soaked the bolts days ago... right irbob?
ClarkGriswald wrote:
Can you cut out a hole above it with a dremel enough to get a socket in there?
River Beast wrote:
Jason,
You can use a dremel to cut open the floor but the blindnuts are square... sockets won't work... plus it will have the remains of the tack weld on it, too.
MonsterMash wrote:
I've been reading the body lift posts here and dreading my own lift for just this reason. How many of these types of nuts are on an '80s GW? I think I remember reading a post or a tech article that said only a couple of the nuts are really inaccessible. With my luck they will all break, spin, cross-thread or have damaged threads so Irbob please give us a play-by-play.
scotty wrote:
luckily the only ones i had trouble with were the rear 2.all the rest came out relatively easy. i cut a small access square above each of mine. i also added 2 more body bounts between those rear 2 on the rear xmember,so i had to drill 2 more holes.
i cant remember if this was mentioned by anyone in previous posts,but once you break them all loose,youll want to leave one side loose,but dont remove the bolts-just loosen them up almost all the way. remove the other side,install spacers,installbolts,tighten,but dont snug them down yet.now remove other side,install spacers,install bolts.snug everything,then tighten. if you remove all the bolts at once,you may accidentally shift the body away from the holes,and then have one helluva time getting it to line up again...
JERRY88GW wrote:
What body lift did you use? Does it replace the bushings as well? My bushings are shot!
Also, what kind of exhaust did you use?
irbob wrote:
Click on the link to see a pic of my exaust and body lift. I got the Performance Parts lift and made a custom exaust with the Turbo II muffler. Sounds really nice. I like it. Put I put the specs on the "Body Lift" post.
The lift does not replace the current mounts. I guess the lift goes right on top of the factory mounts. At lest thats how Jeepers are installing them. I asked the same question on my "Body Lift" post.
FSJ79wag wrote:
I used the performance acessories lift also.I went with the 2" and did not have any problems.Make sure you do several rust penetrator sprays before(I did 2 apps for 3 days before) and to do like Scotty said and make sure to do it one side at a time leaving the other side loose but threaded.The lift was about a 2 hour process by myself.Just my 2cents.
Ralph wrote:
Are OEM replacement rubber bushings available? Mine look to be cracked, not completely dry-rotted, and I'd like to replace them just for PM.
irbob wrote:
Well guys i'm picking away at it. So far 3 of the 6 I've tried won't come out without a frame modification. I bought an air chisle with a neat metal shreading tool that I call my FSJeep can opener . Good thing I at least have axess to a welder and all that welding expieriance aught to come in handy. Give me a couple more days of work hear, work there and it should be done. Hope I don't find any sardines in their.
FYI: Spring pads 50 cents each through www.espo.com got mine coming.
AcelaTech wrote:
A 12 point socket will work on a square nut!
[ May 24, 2002: Message edited by: irbob ]</p>