Freeze plug replacement question

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • ZackN920
    350 Buick
    • Nov 18, 2015
    • 945

    Freeze plug replacement question

    How hard is it to change out freeze/expansion plugs on the sides of the block? Can I do it with the engine in the Jeep? Mine have always leaked while I've owned the Jeep. Small leak's, but there has always been green driplets hanging off the engine.

    I bought some brass plugs from rockauto with my order of other cooling system goodies. I figured that while I change out the radiator, that would be the best time to do freeze plugs too... If I can get to them.
    If I'm going to get stuck in the process though, due to limited space under the hood- im not touchin' em! I can deal with topping off the reservoir once a month!

    If I can do them, I've got some cleaning ahead of me. Get rid of all the corrosion/dirt/oil first.
    1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-"Big Jeep"

    AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 2.72 gears, 2" lift
    Rancho 44044 springs, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI w/ MSD C/R
    ...in pieces for more rust repair...
  • gpcl16
    232 I6
    • Apr 02, 2016
    • 121

    #2
    It depends on which one your trying to replace. Some are easier to get to than others. Invariably the one that's leaking is always the hardest one to get to. That's just how it works.
    1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
    4" BDS Suspension Lift
    Tru-Trac Rear
    Howell GM TBI with Custom Tune

    Comment

    • Tripwire
      AMC 4 OH! 1
      • Jul 30, 2000
      • 4656

      #3
      a looooong time ago i had to use a rubber expandable one on a friends car, it seemed to do the trick...dunno if i would use it long term.... but if push comes to shove -
      Abort? Retry? Ignore? >

      86 GrandWag. Howell fuel Injected 360. MSD Ignition + Dizzy. 727/229 swap BJ's 2" Lift and 31's

      88 Wrangler 4.2, Howell TBI and MSD - Borla Headers w/ Cat-back + winch and 31's AND a M416 trailer (-:

      Comment

      • ZackN920
        350 Buick
        • Nov 18, 2015
        • 945

        #4
        You sure got that right gpcl16! The one that looks to leak the most is behind the drivers side engine mount.

        rubber expandable... I don't know about that... Not sure if that's something i'd want to do... I already purchased brass plugs, they were pretty cheap on RA. I just don't know if I'll have enough space. I like having space to work. If it were up to me, this would be a job to do with the engine on a stand, but I have no plans to pull it out as of yet.
        1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-"Big Jeep"

        AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 2.72 gears, 2" lift
        Rancho 44044 springs, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI w/ MSD C/R
        ...in pieces for more rust repair...

        Comment

        • wiley-moeracing
          350 Buick
          • Feb 15, 2010
          • 1430

          #5
          they make some special tools to install them with for the hard to reach areas. or you could take it to a shop and have them do it.

          Comment

          • TexasJ10
            360 AMC
            • Jan 03, 2002
            • 2774

            #6
            Waiting is not a good option. Your current seep will be a gush exactly at a time you can least afford it. Plus it is always bad to have antifreeze leaking when all your neighbors are wondering why their pets died.
            * 1981 stepside, 360, 727, 208, almost stock daily driver.
            * 1982 Laredo j-10, 360, 727, in rough shape and in the process of being rebuilt with 401, NV4500, Klune,
            . NP205,d60 front, d70 rear, fender work and minimal lift. It will probably take 10 years
            * 1973 jcab mounted on 1983 j20 frame. 360/t18/208 d44/d60. Almost completed

            Comment

            • ZackN920
              350 Buick
              • Nov 18, 2015
              • 945

              #7
              WileyMoe-
              Special tools huh, ok. I'll check out google and see what I can find.

              Under my ownership this Jeep has not and WILL NOT be worked on by anyone other than myself(and occasionally dad when he wants to help). I will not pay someone else to work on my Jeep or any of my other vehicles for that matter while I am still able to myself. So that's not an option.


              TexasJ10-
              It's been waiting for at least the last 3 years that I've owned it. Probably longer with how the po's were. It's only left the bottom of the engine wet. Unlike the radiator that is leaving puddles on the ground every time I drive it...


              Neighbors pets have no reason to be in my driveway, and the gravel sucks up any leaks. Only time I notice leaks in the gravel is when there's snow. I don't think modern coolant can even hurt animals or people anymore. Unless your drinkin' it out of the jug!


              Hey, anyone know if I can pull the whole engine mount out of the way? Looks like I should be able to get it off the engine, but I don't know if I can pull the whole bracket off the frame.
              1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-"Big Jeep"

              AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 2.72 gears, 2" lift
              Rancho 44044 springs, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI w/ MSD C/R
              ...in pieces for more rust repair...

              Comment

              • wiley-moeracing
                350 Buick
                • Feb 15, 2010
                • 1430

                #8
                What you will need is a floor jack, block of wood and tools, you can remove the motor mounts( 4 bolts hold them to the frame) to get at the freeze plugs. If you do this them you do not need to purchase the off set freeze plug installation tools. it will take a little longer to do this but make sure you change all the freeze plugs while in there. Since you have them out, clean out the holes inside the block and flush them out, you get a lot of sediment inside and this will help your cooling a bit.

                Comment

                • tgreese
                  • May 29, 2003
                  • 11682

                  #9
                  The rubber expandable ones are ok. They are mostly used for emergency repairs. We sold those when I worked auto parts counter many years ago, and they seemed to work fine. They don't last forever, but they will last or a few years. I'd keep a spare of the right size with the car, in case I ever had trouble with the one in the block.

                  Dorman gives auto repair professionals and vehicle owners greater freedom to fix cars and trucks by focusing on solutions first.


                  They also make a copper expanding plug, but I don't know much about those.


                  Tim Reese
                  Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
                  Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
                  Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
                  GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
                  ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

                  Comment

                  • ZackN920
                    350 Buick
                    • Nov 18, 2015
                    • 945

                    #10
                    Originally posted by wiley-moeracing
                    What you will need is a floor jack, block of wood and tools, you can remove the motor mounts( 4 bolts hold them to the frame) to get at the freeze plugs. If you do this them you do not need to purchase the off set freeze plug installation tools. it will take a little longer to do this but make sure you change all the freeze plugs while in there. Since you have them out, clean out the holes inside the block and flush them out, you get a lot of sediment inside and this will help your cooling a bit.
                    Awesome.

                    The plan is to change the 3 (6 total)on each side of the engine, even though for the most part it's the 3 on the driver side I'm worried about.
                    hmmm Clean out... well, I can see about scooping with my hands or vacuuming it out but actually running water through it would be a pain. I was planning on working in the garage, me and a hose in the garage always equals a big mess that ends up everywhere in the building. May have to roll it into the yard outside the building, and that'll be hard with the engine supported by a jack I'd have to loosely remount the engine mount

                    Coolant always came out if this thing looking clean. Radiator (even though its leaking) look's clean inside as well. I've had(still have!) good heat... Ya think it'd still have sediment and junk in the engine?

                    What's everybody's thoughts on installing brass plugs? Install dry or with a sealer of some kind?
                    1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-"Big Jeep"

                    AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 2.72 gears, 2" lift
                    Rancho 44044 springs, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI w/ MSD C/R
                    ...in pieces for more rust repair...

                    Comment

                    • ZackN920
                      350 Buick
                      • Nov 18, 2015
                      • 945

                      #11
                      Originally posted by tgreese
                      The rubber expandable ones are ok. They are mostly used for emergency repairs. We sold those when I worked auto parts counter many years ago, and they seemed to work fine. They don't last forever, but they will last or a few years. I'd keep a spare of the right size with the car, in case I ever had trouble with the one in the block.



                      They also make a copper expanding plug, but I don't know much about those.


                      I've been doing some reading and have seen others actually get several years out of these things! In the range of 20! To be honest, I was kinda shocked.

                      Have not seen anything about a copper expanding plug, just regular steel or brass freeze/core plugs.


                      Ya know guys, I'm not really worried about install much now. What im worried about is how the old ones will come out. Most things on this Jeep are stuck and stubborn. Wonder if they'll cock out for me, or if im going to peel the flat sides like a can and fight for HOURS with the outer rings still stuck in the block!
                      1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-"Big Jeep"

                      AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 2.72 gears, 2" lift
                      Rancho 44044 springs, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI w/ MSD C/R
                      ...in pieces for more rust repair...

                      Comment

                      • Towtruck
                        350 Buick
                        • Oct 11, 2001
                        • 1026

                        #12
                        This is a link with photos of the Dorman copper plugs. I'm going to use them on my leaking Jaguar because there's no access to drive in conventional plugs.
                        ___________________________
                        J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

                        Comment

                        • tgreese
                          • May 29, 2003
                          • 11682

                          #13
                          Originally posted by ZackN920
                          ... What im worried about is how the old ones will come out. Most things on this Jeep are stuck and stubborn. Wonder if they'll cock out for me, or if im going to peel the flat sides like a can and fight for HOURS with the outer rings still stuck in the block!
                          IIRC - drive the point of the bar through the center, and pry it out. Destructive removal.

                          Tim Reese
                          Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
                          Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
                          Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
                          GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
                          ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

                          Comment

                          • tgreese
                            • May 29, 2003
                            • 11682

                            #14
                            Originally posted by ZackN920
                            ...
                            What's everybody's thoughts on installing brass plugs? Install dry or with a sealer of some kind?
                            Permatex #1.
                            Tim Reese
                            Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
                            Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
                            Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
                            GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
                            ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

                            Comment

                            • rang-a-stang
                              Administrator
                              • Oct 31, 2016
                              • 5512

                              #15
                              When I installed my brass freeze plugs, I rubbed the inside of the hole with a very light coating of "The Right Stuff" black then inserted the plug. My machinist recommended "The Right Stuff" and when I googled it, I saw nothing but good about it (other than cost). So far mine do not leak. I say if you are going to go through the effort of replacing the freeze plugs ALWAYS use brass. They will outlive your engine. Figure on it taking a Saturday. If all goes well, 4 hours but knowing it NEVER all goes well, so a Saturday.

                              Clean the hole out with a stiff wire brush. Don't get the cheapies from Harbor Freight or you will break one off in your block, then good luck getting it. Get the ones that are about the size of a tooth brush. Also, some emory cloth works well, too. Make sure you do your TStat (195 Degree) while you have your cooling system drained.

                              Then fill your truck with straight distilled water. Run it like that until (at least) you have had normal operating temps for 20 mins. Turn if off, drain it, pull your rad again, rinse it out, and repeat one or two times. Then just drain the Rad and fill with 2 gallons of green concentrate and Water Wetter.
                              Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
                              (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
                              (8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums​)
                              79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
                              (Cherokee Build Thread)
                              11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
                              09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
                              00 Baby Cherokee

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X