View Full Version : Spindle Bearing Replacement
bmoose
03-26-2002, 01:29 PM
Hi guys, I finally got smart and graduated from an XJ to the FSJ and I think its great.
I am in the middle of a resurection on a 79 LTD Wag. I have found the right front assembly appears to have had water in it or just bad neglect. Will need to replace all bearings and races. I can't figure out the best way to remove the inner caged bearings from the spindle? Do they press out from the outside or do I use an internal gear puller?
Any recommendations on grease or best place to look for bearings, will ch**y parts fit this dana44?
I am new to the group but not new to mechanix just the 4WD world.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Bmoose
79 LTD Wag (stock)
84 XJ (Had to start somewhere)
WINGO
03-26-2002, 02:11 PM
WELCOME!
The best way that I have found to remove the spindle bearing is to use a piliot bearing puller attached to a slide hammer. The puller is inserted into the beaing and open up by threading it out. You then attach it to the slide hammer and then bam bam and it's out For grease, you will want to use a high temp grease for axle bearings. IMHO Valvoline Durablend works well. It's range of operation is -29 to 425 Beside the bearing, you will need new seals also. NAPA sells a nice bearing kit that includes the beaing, three seals and a couple of other goodies for about $ 9.00.
Good luck!
[ March 26, 2002: Message edited by: WINGO ]</p>
Langdon
03-26-2002, 09:18 PM
Another idea for removing the bearing is simply to destroy it...you should be able to open the cage and let the rollers fall out and then bend it till it comes out. Being careful not to scratch the spindle surface of course... :cool:
Lugnut
03-26-2002, 10:25 PM
If you can come up with a bearing puller it's got to be better than trying to chip it out with a chisel. I had to replace both of bearings and it was a pain to do it this way. The guy at the parts house was no help. He couldn't suggest any kind of tool to do this with.
I recently helped someone else with this needle bearing assy in the back of the spindle and ended up grinding down the head of a long bolt so that it was flat and the head would rest on the shoulder of the bearing. If you don't grind it down flat, most likely the roundness on the head will cause the bolt head to slip off the bearing. I inserted it from the front of the spindle, rested it on the shoulder, rapped it a few times and drove the bearing out that way. But, it's possible I was just lucky in being able to get it out by this method.
xj2fsj
03-26-2002, 11:41 PM
why won't a simple hub bearing puller work? I was planning on changing my bearings this weekend. last night I put on new hub locks, amd while i was in there i gave it a good look. It looks pretty straight-forward. Am I in for a surprise?!?
scotty
03-26-2002, 11:56 PM
as long as the teeth fit inside ths pindle,it will prolly work.
like lugnut,i manufactured my own tool.i made mine from an old 3/8 drive extenision.i ground out one end of it so that it was sort of L shaped and would fit firmly on the spindle bearing. its now easy to tap them out from the top. you cant use a regualr screwdriver very effectively cause it will not really grab hold of the bearing,due to the way its shaped.
good luck smile.gif
Bob Barry
03-27-2002, 05:39 AM
I ground down a flat piece of iron so that it would fit in through the bearing, after which I turned it 90º and laid it across the backside of the bearing race, then used a long extension through the spindle to drive the race out. It's such a small hole that the jaws of most pullers won't be able to fit in there and grab the bearing.
Lugnut
03-27-2002, 07:14 AM
Dang, Bob. Are you a brain surgeon, by chance. ;)
bmoose
03-27-2002, 12:25 PM
Thanks Team for the input. I an glad to know there are folks who are willing to share info. The guy at the parts house is just that and he will sell me anything I ask for.
I like the Idea of the jeepDR. but I will try a reversable puller before I try to rig something.
Thanks again for the help.
You guys are great!!
Bmoose
79 LTD wag -stock so far
WINGO
03-27-2002, 12:54 PM
If there is an AUTOZONE near you, you can rent the slide hammer and bearing remover for a $ 40.00 deposit.
For my money and time, it's the way to go.
With this tool, I removed three bearings in less than 5 min.
[ March 27, 2002: Message edited by: WINGO ]</p>
scotty
03-27-2002, 09:58 PM
i tried it that way too,bob. smile.gif i guess i didnt have a thick enuff piece of flat iron layin around,tho,cause all i accomplished with that method was bending my little piece of flat iron. at that point i manufactured my "spindle bearing removing tool"
chrisnsarah
03-28-2002, 03:15 AM
I just used a small internal jaw puller attached to a slide hammer. If the bearing's thrashed, just dig the needles out and hook the jaws on the lip of the cage. never had any trouble getting them out this way. To reinstall them, get a socket that has a slightly smaller outside diameter than the bearing, put the spindle in a vise, and use the socket to press the bearing in.
bmoose
03-29-2002, 02:49 PM
IT WORKED!!!
Thakks guys I finished th front end tonite and tommorrow ai will road test. It went just like you said. Great input thanks again.
I will keep in touch and maybe I can return the favor..
Bmoose
79Wag ltd
bmoose
03-29-2002, 02:50 PM
IT WORKED!!!
Thanks guys I finished the front end tonite and tommorrow I will road test. It went just like you said. Great input thanks again.
I will keep in touch and maybe I can return the favor..
Bmoose
79Wag ltd
(edited for spelling)
DrChop
03-29-2002, 06:16 PM
You guys are doing it all the hard way...
Just did mine at work today, with nothing more than the shop's MIG welder, a hammer, a socket to use as an installing driver, and a short prybar to remove them...
If the needles/cage are not gone from the old bearings, bust them out. Now, fire up the MIG and make a weld on the outer race, right down the center where the rollers ride, all the way around. A bunch of short-duration tacks work just as well, provided they are overlapping all the way around the race. You don't have to make the weld the full width of the race either, just run it in the center of the race.
When finished welding (in my case, about 2 minutes time each one), just pop them out with the prybar. :D :D :D
The weld around the ID of the race causes it to contract as it cools, which shrinks the race's OD and makes it go from press-fit to slip-in fit...
My boss was amazed how easily they came out. He spent a lot of time looking thru his well-equipped toolbox looking for something to use to drive them out, and had never seen the "MIG-puller" trick before... :D
Just try it sometime when you have to remove a stuck internal bearing race without damaging the part involved.
Doc
irbob
03-29-2002, 10:07 PM
One of the best tools to have in your tool box is a mechanics pry bar. "L" hook on one end and point on the other. Hook the "L" in behind the bearing and tap it down between the bearing and the seat.
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