View Full Version : Sandblasting Estimate ?'s
Nooner
03-18-2009, 07:27 PM
SO....
I've emailed a few placed to get estimated for Sandblasting my Cherokee and the one that sounds best to me is estimating:
$850 For all sheetmetal (including the entire interior) - and I don't have to remove any decals.
$250 for the stripped frame
how do those prices sound to you guys - pretty reasonable?
Ristow
03-18-2009, 08:08 PM
sand is gonna warp all the sheetmetal. 'specially when they blast those decals off.
loganvilledude
03-18-2009, 08:16 PM
Sounds pretty high to me, but then again if I were quoted that rate I would probably just go out and buy the equipment and do it myself. I have a 60 gallon compressor and use it for smaller sand blasting jobs. You can go to Northern Tools and buy almost everything you need for a blasting projecthe biggest obstacle is where you might live. In a subdivision your neighbors may not appreciate you sand blasting for several hours:banghead:, but if you live in the country who gives a crap?
Nooner
03-18-2009, 08:36 PM
Another local shop quoted me $120/hour - I'm not comfortable with hourly work at all(unless I am supervising and know how long the job should take). I prefer job rate whenever I don't know the job.
I've been planning to do the frame myself(with a wire wheel and a siphon gun that I already own), but I am leery of doing the body myself for the very reason you had listed above - I don't want to warp things too badly, and my sense is I either need to buckle down and sand, or pay up. I've done plenty of manual labor in my short life, and sanding is one of the few things I really, REALLY hate... :banghead:
I have another email out to a guy who does Soda Blasting - I kinda hope he comes in at a reasonable price, or maybe will take something in trade to bring the price down(I have 3 4x4's I am parting out...)
That seems like a decent price for the frame based on the time and material cu4whln spent on his last week.
x2 on what Ristow said about sandblasting the sheetmetal.
Clean RC
03-18-2009, 08:52 PM
Ive seen soda blasting done on street rods before, I guess its a lot safer than sand blasting.. When we build a rally car we have the body acid dipped...:D
duncanstives
03-18-2009, 09:40 PM
I would take it to work and do it... Including acid dipping:
http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-sf2p/v644/233/59/742425490/n742425490_2725747_2104641.jpg
Hydrochloric FTW!
badaboom
03-18-2009, 10:02 PM
I contacted a local commerical blasting company regarding blasting my J10 frame as needed to work the bad areas but not the entire frame. I was quoted 250.00 per hour. I asked what type of media be would be using to blast the frame. He told me a mixture of nickel and brass to blast the frame would be best and probably could do what I had asked to be done in probably around 30 minutes.
Plastic bead blast the the PO had a tonneau cover
http://home.comcast.net/~rbrent5/wsb/media/88831/site1074.JPG
Elliott
03-19-2009, 06:21 AM
I can get a frame done here for ~$150.
I can get a frame done here for ~$150.
I would pay that in a heartbeat.
twmattox
03-19-2009, 07:30 AM
I can get an entire frame acid dipped and galvanized for around $200. They will acid dip a body too...but it needs to be stripped of paint and decals first...
sappy76
03-19-2009, 05:22 PM
I paid ~$200 for my J10 frame. I'd try to find a place to dip the body instead of blasting, it's probably a better way to eliminate all the hidden rust in the seems.
streetglide
03-19-2009, 05:40 PM
A shop just quoted me 200.00-250.00 for the frame and both axles. Another guy quoted me 120.00 an hour for the same items, and figured he could do all three items in about an hour, which seems to me its going to take longer than an hour. The first shop is indoors out of the weather, and have the means to suspend the frame and axles to get to everything easily. The second guy, didn't seem to want to go thru the extra effort. I'm going with the shop quote. Sometimes the cheapest offer isnt the way to go when doing certain things in my opinion. Sometimes we get what we pay for...???
mdill
03-19-2009, 05:47 PM
On things like axles seal them up with Corks, tape , covers , whatever as you never want to sand blast anything in side a gear box, there will be sand in the gears if you do. You can clean rinse ... until the next ice age but you will not get all of it out if you let it in. (You can use other media besides sand in a gear box that is OK, like wallnut shells, dry-ice (real anal) )
Mike D.
orangebike
03-19-2009, 05:57 PM
sand blasted both my chevelle frames....110 each but took them in as pair so might of helped
H Callaway
03-19-2009, 06:59 PM
After doing a lot of my own sand blasting, any price may be worth paying someone. I paid about $400 for all the panels except the bed, which I built from scratch. This included a heavy primer.
janie
03-19-2009, 08:52 PM
how do those prices sound to you guys - pretty reasonable?
No they don't. It is nasty work. I've done it. But not enough to command that steep of a price.
Nooner
03-20-2009, 10:19 AM
After doing a lot of my own sand blasting, any price may be worth paying someone. I paid about $400 for all the panels except the bed, which I built from scratch. This included a heavy primer.
Just touched base with the Soda guy - he thinks we'll be somewhere in the neighborhood of $600 to Soda Blast it, which seems more like it to me!
*edit - for the entire interior and exterior - and I mean the ENTIRE interior and exterior.
babywag
03-20-2009, 10:32 AM
I DO NOT recommend you soda blast it....
#1 Soda will not even touch surface rust let alone anything more.
#2 It's a PITA to clean it afterwards, and if you don't the paint won't adhere properly.
In my area you'd be looking @ $1500 for a car, no idea how much more for a truck?
If somebody quoted me $850, my car would have been blasted years ago.
A professional will not warp the panels by blasting, if they do they aren't professionals.
Chuck Brown
03-20-2009, 01:00 PM
I don't know...I brought a '66 Mustang convertible in to be sandblasted about 3 years ago, and even mounted it on a rotisserie so they could access every nook and cranny and if I remember it was about 400 bucks.
Your mileage may vary though...
Chuck Brown
waynestiles
03-20-2009, 01:16 PM
re: "dipping"
What do they dip it into get the rust off?
And more important how do they neutralize to make sure no active solution is left in partially enclosed spaces and seams?
trailscape
04-06-2009, 08:47 PM
Could I drive my Jeep into a place and have the bed sandblasted? Would that be advisable? Just got a lot of surface rust and chipped paint and would like to LineX it.
Towtruck
04-07-2009, 03:30 PM
Regarding "dipping", I had my E-type Jag dipped by Redi-Strip about 25 years ago...they used acid followed by a "thorough" rinsing. I took it home, rinsed it again several times, dried it in the Texas sun for two days, prepped the metal, primed/sealed the exterior and interior, strapped the body to garage ceiling, and forgot about it for a quarter century. Took it down a couple months ago to start restoration and found rust under the paint in many of the overlapping, spot welded sheet metal joints. The acid residue gets in those seams and it stays there. Moisture reactivates it. Found evidence of acid powder in the rocker panels when I did a close examination with my borrowed proctoscope. Be careful with acid dips...or if you use it...be sure to neutralize it with one of the new high pH products that are now available.
Most dipping facilities have switched over to the high pH alkaline method to get after the rust. As I understand it (they're very secretive), they start with a paint stripper, and then they flood surface with the high pH alkaline solution to dissolve every speck of rust. The rust dissolver is now on autoparts store shelves and advertised as environmentally friendly...which it is. I tested it and it does work....the rust just disappears. The only drawback is you have to either keep parts submerged for a while, or flood the surface. I'm using it to derust inside voids that were not painted following Redi-Strip, and also to remove rust from seams (after removing the paint). A large wooden frame covered with plastic sheet acts as a catch basin under the body, and a sump pump recirculates/floods the surface. Helps that body is on a rotisserie. Best place I found to buy the alkaline dissolver in bulk is Northern Tool @ $79 for 5 gallons.
As for blasting, the best Jag restoration shop in the country uses media blasting without a warpage problem....not sure what they use as a media, but operator skill is no doubt a factor.
For what it's worth...
KyooMac
04-07-2009, 07:00 PM
Isn't the price dependent on where you live? I'm close to Chicago and there are a lot of shops by me, so supply is high and demand is low. To sandblast a vehicle by me it's roughly 400 bucks, a truck is 600 bucks. I think it's reasonable to ask 850 if it's the only shop for miles.
KyooMac
04-07-2009, 07:04 PM
As for blasting, the best Jag restoration shop in the country uses media blasting without a warpage problem....not sure what they use as a media, but operator skill is no doubt a factor.
For what it's worth...
I believe it's walnut shells. It's claimed they don't warp metal.
Elliott
04-07-2009, 07:22 PM
Took it down a couple months ago to start restoration...
Eric, I'm real glad to see that project beginning! :cool:
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