Points in my dist?

[jode]

Do any FSJs have points-style ignitions? I am not sure I would know one if I saw it, so I have to rely on y'all for a bit o help.

The specific question I am aiming at here is whether or not my 73 J4000 has points. I am thinkning it does cause I don't seem to have an ignition module (at least it aint in the same spot as in my wag) NAybody know?

Thanks folks...all I know about car mechanics is what I learned on my 76 wag....

[joe]

If your dizzy is stock it'll have points and no module. I don't think electronic ign was used till 76 or so.

[jode]

Bingo!!
Here's what is going on...

1) My plug wires were BAD
2) I replace them (and the plugs) One of the plugs had NO gap (it looked like it had been dropped)
3) THe truck runs TERRIBLE (worse than before)
It smokes and smells like is running rich
4) I check the plug in the spot where there was the no-gapped one and it still has a gap, but smells like gas (and is wet with gas)

SO I am thinking that maybe the .035" gap I installed is larger than what was previously in there (on the plugs that actually HAD a gap) and now my spark isn't bridging the gap as well as it did in the previously narrow-gapped plugs (because it is weak).

I would like to (now that I know I have points) clean/refurbish the points, but I can't find anything in the tech library on it. Is this a do-able task? What does it require?

I guess my alternative is to re-gap at a smaller measurement, but that sounds like the wrong way to go about things.

Suggestions? :confused:

[ May 17, 2002: Message edited by: jode ]</p>

[J4GRAND]

Your 73 will have points. If the truck is running worse than before replacing the plug wires, make sure the new wires are seated completely on the plugs. If they are snug, I would suspect you crossed a couple of wires. I had points on mine before and replaced with a Pertronix solid-state unit. I paid $70 for it and it was some of the beat money I ever spent on the truck. Has a hotter spark and gets rid of the points.

[jode]

Thanks J4grand, but I was very careful not to cross the wires and yesterday I doublechecked the firing order to be sure.
ALl the wires are firmly attached. Which is ironic, because the ones I jsut replaced were so worn that engine vibration alone would wobble them off the plugs. It ran better with two wires not even attached than now with new plugs/wires! It is crazy, but true. I know it sounds like I *^% something up, but it is not the firing order or the fact that the plugs are firmly on there. I actually felt the "snap" of each wire as it popped onto the plugs.
Is there anything else that may be wrong?

I just had a thought…I have a standing arrangement with some white trash types who have an old Grand Wagoneer out in the trash heap behind their house.
I give them a case of Bud…they give me whatever I want off the wag. It’s a pretty good arrangement.
Anyhow, tomorrow I am going to go and get:

The windshield
All remaining vacuum system components
The t-case
The body mounts
Other misc. doodads and small parts

I was thinking…what if I grab the distributor and the ignition module too? Would they work with my older 360? Of course this is assuming that the donor is a 360 (I’ll check) or does that even matter? What if it is a 401? Will the ignition stuff work?
It’s all included in the Budweiser price, so even if it might just barely help…I might as well grab it…I DO hate these cheap Jeep ignition modules, but they have gotta be better than points right?

[CJ5]

J4Grand,

Tell me more about your "solid state ignition" I have a '72CJ and want to do some upgrade. I was think the DUI system but not right now.

Jode,

I can give you the spec's on your points setting Monday if you still need it. I will bring my manual in. Its a '72 tech manual (covering CJ, JTruck, Waggy's, and Commando).

[joe]

I agree with the above. If it runs worse now that you fixed it you've got some wires crossed or not fully seated.
0.035" plug gap is correct, don't mess with that.
Sounds like you may need to do a tune-up, points, condensor, rotor and prolly cap. Point gap will be 0.016" or 29*- 31* dwell. Timing should be 5* BTDC. The timing spec is for a new motor so in reality you may be more advanced than that to get it to run best. I just adv it till it pings under load and then back it off some.

[jode]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by -joe:
I agree with the above. If it runs worse now that you fixed it you've got some wires crossed or not fully seated.
0.035" plug gap is correct, don't mess with that.
Sounds like you may need to do a tune-up, points, condensor, rotor and prolly cap. Point gap will be 0.016" or 29*- 31* dwell. Timing should be 5* BTDC. The timing spec is for a new motor so in reality you may be more advanced than that to get it to run best. I just adv it till it pings under load and then back it off some.<hr></blockquote>
I am at the same conclusion....any tips on tuning up points, condensor (what is that anyway?)? I really have never dealt with points before. I can handle cap/rotor and timing, but points?...

:confused:

[joe]

Jode, I'm just a hunt-find-push typist and ain't up for typing out a complete walk-through on a tune up.
You mentioned earlier that you had both a Childrens and Haynes manual. Go get a soda, coffee, beer whatever and a comfy place to sit to read...and spend some time getting familiar with the manuals. Even those useless books should have basic tune-up procedures in them. Just be careful of the specs given in them. If you stick with the above posted specs you'll be fine.

[jode]

Thanks -joe
I wouldn't expect you to write it up ifn its in the books I have. I just dont remember having seen it in there, and I am a little nervous to jump in without knowing if it is something I can handle.
I am currently at work :D and I'll look into it once I get home.
Any thoughts on swapping to the ignition module type setup I mentioned earlier? :confused:

[jode]

J4Grand
Is that pertronix solid state thing an ignition module type? I am not familiar with the lingo?

Where's ya get it? New or used? Etc...I'm interested.

[OBX-AUTOMOTIVE]

I'M THE ODD MAN OUT...........I'M UP-GRADING MY WAG TOO, TO A DUEL POINT MALLORY :cool: FOR GET THAT ELECTRONIC..STUFF!!! I WANT CONTROL OVER MY IGNITION tongue.gif I LIKE THINGS SIMPLE!!! :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

[joe]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by GEMOBX/77/401:
I LIKE THINGS SIMPLE!!! :rolleyes: :rolleyes: <hr></blockquote>

GARY, ARE YOU SURE YOU WANT TO DO THIS? :confused:
I'M A POINTS FAN TOO CAUSE THEY'RE SIMPLE AND RELIABLE AND I'VE RUN'EM FOR YEARS BUT A DUAL POINT?
I RAN A MALLORY DUAL POINT BACK IN THE LATE 60'S AND THE ONLY THING I REALLY REMEMBER ABOUT IT WAS THAT IT WAS A ROYAL PITA TO SET UP AND THERE REALLY WASN'T ANY BENEFIT FROM IT TILL YA GOT UP TO ABOUT THE 5000-6000 AND UP RPM RANGE WHICH IS A BIT OVER WHAT AN AMC MOTOR RUNS AT. :D
IF KEEPING THINGS SIMPLE IS YOUR GOAL...YOU MAY WANT TO RE-THINK THE DUAL POINT AND GO WITH A STOCK DELCO UNIT THAT CAN BE HAD AT NAPA FOR ABOUT $50 AND COMES W/POINTS AND CONDENSOR?
JUST MY TWO CENTS(4 CENTS CND) :D

[J4GRAND]

The Pertronix solid state ignition is a device to replace the points and condenser inside the distibutor. It is sold in the JC Whitney catalog- look up in the index under Ignition Conversion Kit. It's listed for $76.95, I think I paid $70 a few years ago. What it does is uses a small pickup that fits where your points currently go and a magnetic ring that screws onto the bottom of the advance springs.
The listing in the Whitney catalog is a little misleading. It says that it installs as easily as replacing points. Well, not quite. You have to remove your distibutor from the engine and the drive gear on the bottom of the dizzy shaft to install this. It has really good installation instructions that I was able to handle and I'm by no means a professional mechanic. If you can follow step by step their guidance, it is pretty easy. I remember one step you have to measure the up and down play in the distributor shaft and make sure it's not greater than .025- measuring between the magnetic ring and pickup. Mine was more than that, so I had to place a washer-type shim above the drive gear to bring it into tolerance. I've had it in for over 15k miles and have not had one problem with it.
As long as you're not intimidated by removing the distributor, the pertronix is an easy way to do away with points. They also sell a 40k volt coil in the Whitney catalog.

[ May 17, 2002: Message edited by: J4GRAND ]</p>

[jode]

Thanks J4000 now I see...I thnk my brother did that on his 79 VW van.

But what about just grabbing the ignition and dist off a newer 360?

Like I said...I can get the whole setup tomorrow for free so if it will work, I might as well go that way...anybody have any ideas?

[OBX-AUTOMOTIVE]

-JOE, I DID SAY ODD.....OK I'M LOOKING FOR THE AMC PART #4487900 MALLORY DUAL-POINT..ORDINARY UNIT...OR THE PART #4487901 WITH THE MECHANICAL TACH DRIVE...NOW I THINK THE PART #s ARE THE RIGHT ONES...I JUST MISSED ONE ON EBAY FOR 50.00 BUCKS.....NO ONE LIKES TO SET POINTS.....LIKE YOU SAID,I ALSO RAN THEM FOR YEARS, IN MY CHEBBY EATING 442s...LOVE THEM NOSEMOBILES :cool: :cool:

[joe]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by GEMOBX/77/401:
-JOE, I DID SAY ODD.....OK I'M LOOKING FOR THE PART #4487901 WITH THE MECHANICAL TACH DRIVE <hr></blockquote>
HUMMM INTERESTING...I JUST READ THAT THE AMC MODEL 4487901 IS CURVED FOR 38* ADV AT 3000 RPM.
SHOULD WORK WELL.

[Gladi8r]

Jode, I have a 1972 TSM that I can scan and email the pages to you if you like. I would put them up on my web page but the server is doing the Psycho-Dance for the past couple of days :( :(

Anyway, if ya need them email me at donp@adelphia.net and I will scan the pages and send them to you :D

[ May 18, 2002: Message edited by: Gladi8r ]</p>