Instrument cluster? How do it git out??

[Ernzo]

Hi,

How the *heck* does the 84 GW instrument cluster git out?

I pulled the 6 screws, and it moves out a little, but seems like the heater cluster is hanging things up. From what I can see, the screwes holding THAT on are only accesable if you have the whole thing in yuour lap!!

Anybody help?

In order to add ballance here is a story that may be helpfull.

My wag was starting hard, bucking and stalling, especially in the AM last winter. Felt like fuel starvation (pump/filter??) possibly bad points(except I don't have 'em..)

Turned out to be the ignition module. I replaced it with a $25 dollar one, and it worked imidiately. After three wekks, same deal. Took it to 'Al" my "when all else fails, try a trained professional" person. He replaced the IM *again* thi time with a rue blue $100 unit from NAPA. Told me the cheap ones never work. He also said that the way to test one is to either lift the hood and let it heat up i the Sun, or use a hair dryer to heat it up. Aparently, if the Jeep starts working (starts) when the IM is heated, then you know that the IM is out. Heating, for some reason, can help a tired or failed unit to work, for awhile.

Anyway, this explained why it would start, after I lifted the hood, dinked around and let it sit. My driveway provides for full, hot sun!!

But I still *need* help on removing the clusterso I can rr the heather vacume lines!

E

[River Beast]

IF you have tilt wheel.... tilt it down. Then the gear lever needs to be in low to be out of the way (set yur P. brake) with a little fondling of the speedo cable from under the hood, you should be able to pull out the right side (as it is facing you) to slide the heater cluster out past the dash. IT's a little tricky to get in/out...but it can be done....

[Bob Barry]

The speedo cable has to be released from the back of the speedometer. It either has a spring-clip holding the cable in place, or a threaded collar connects the cable to the back of the speedo head. You may have to remove your left A/C duct if it is in the way in order to reach up and release the speedo.

Of course, disconnect the battery before doing this, as the ammeter connections would be live, even with the key off.

[Ernzo]

Thanks, I'll try this...

E :cool:

[Lindel]

One more thing, it doesn't hurt to drop the column a couple of inches, either. You'll also find 2 electical plugs, and the ammeter connections to deal with, so disconnect the battery, too. You'll be able to get to the electrical connections after you've gotten the speedo undone, and then the screws for the heater controls are easy to get too.

[Ernzo]

Note, the reason I started this is because the "green 4x4 light" did not light up. Now I know it goes into 4, and low, but no light. I was able to access that light, bulb good but no light up!

So, in attempting to get it all back together, I heard this long swooooosh of air! Oops, that was the vacume line for the defroster....

So, I have to remove the cluster completely to RR that. I also do not have the brake warning light, so I will look into that as well.

Thanks for the tips.

E :eek:

[Ernzo]

Thanks to all, I did get the doggone cluster far enough out to do the rr, replaces several lights, found some that were not hooked up, got her back in.

Green 4x4 light STILL does not work! Checked the bulb, fine. Wireing passes the "looks ok.." test. Does anyone know where the light is switched? That is to say, I assume that there is a switch that I can access under my Wag that fires the light when 4x4 is fully engaged.

Again, I know that 4x4 DOES engage, I used the time tested technique of spinning the tires on gravel while hanging my head out the window. It will also go into 4 low, no problem.

I would love to get the green light functioning. Why? Well, because I would!!

Ernie

[Slippery]

According to my '84 owners manual, the 4WD light is for the NP208 only. If you have the NP229, you're SOL. :(

[Lindel]

It's possible that the NP229 doesn't have the switch for the indicator light, no big deal really, but you can look easily enough. On the rear of the t/c, you'll see a flat spot about the size of a half dollar (if it doesn't have the switch, if it does, you'll see the switch). It could be, if it has the switch that it's disconnected, especially if there's been any tranny, or t/c work done on it. But most 229's do have that option, from about 84 on, with the NP229.

[Bob Barry]

I think that 4wd light never went on for the NP228/NP229 transfer-cases until the dash-redesign in 1986. If the transfer-case has the switch, it can be rigged up, but the factory didnt' do that.

[Coley]

Dr. Bob is correct (as always). My early model 229 T-case did not come with the 4wd light. The easy way to tell if you've got a 4wd light, is to:

Pop the hood.
Look at the back, center of the firewall. You'll see a wiring harness that goes to the bulkhead connector on the driver side of the firewall. On the side of the plug going to the bulkhead connector, you'll see White, Orange, Red, and Black wires (The orange is for the 4wd light). On the other side of the plug, if you have an orange wire, you have a 4wd light. More than likely, you'll just have Red, Black, and White wires and an empty socket where the Orange wire would be.
Those Red, White, and Black wires run to the Neutral Start/Backup switch and (if you have it) the Orange wire runs to the t-case switch.

On np208's the switch is at the top of the case (I think), and on later np229's you have a 2-pronged socket at the bottom of the case.

I retrofitted my 84 to get the 4wd light to work (Thanks to Mudthrasher).