Performer intake question

[Simontrips]

Hey Stuka I justwent to my local parts house [Advance Auto Parts]I picked up the 1406 for $239 and the manifold gasket set for 20.39.I could have gotten it cheaper but I have no patience,I just can`t stand the fact that I have 2 fsj`s and can`t enjoy either one right now.Tooooo many projects.Is there any advice or tips that you may have while I have this apart.
update ;I have removed the original intake,on the bottom of the intake there is apiece that has to be removed from the intake and put on the new ,<not sure what this is called>How is this removed and what do I use to attatch it to the performer intake

[ October 04, 2001: Message edited by: Simontrips ]

[ October 04, 2001: Message edited by: Simontrips ]

[Simontrips]

the Haynes manual is not very helpful

[Veepster]

the performer should have come with instructions on how to remove and reinstall the PCV baffle(term I came up with).........and the intake should have come with these funky looking rivet type looking things that have a twisted shank...those are the things to remount the PCV baffle with...........

[Simontrips]

the intake was a gift from the po it has been sitting a while .I just spoke to another shadetree and he says I do not need it . ????????????? whatever it is, PCV baffle domaflitchy
Should I use RTV or just the sealant that came with the new gasket set <valley pan>????haynes manual says to glue the end seals with quick dry cement

[ October 04, 2001: Message edited by: Simontrips ]

[Tripwire]

I put a Performer on my engine last year. I did reuse the heat shield that's held on with the special rivits but the shield needed a bit of trimming to fit corectly. I also got some advice from a mechanic and from a web site on the end gaskets - they said not to use them at all as they are a PITA to keep from sliding out of place during the install. They suggested using the SON of A GUN gasket maker stuff that comes in a Caluking tube - its a bit pricy but can be used for all sorts of gaskets. just run a very THICK bead on both ends of the Block and lower the intake into place. It worked like a charm and hasn't leaked as of yet.

[Stuka]

I grinded the old rivets off my 4v intake and used the new rivets that came with the edelbrock to put it on. I did have to grind the corners a tiny bit to get it to fit right on the edelbrock. When I went to put it on, I almost had to stand on it because the heat shield will rest on the valley pan. but it went down ok. Kinda wish our intake hwere like fords. Since fords use verticle intake bolts, you can use the bolts to seat the intake. but ohwell ;p

If you come across any probs just post here or mail me.

BTW: look at Machaels question about the edelbrock intake for my right up on it.

[ October 04, 2001: Message edited by: Stuka ]

[SpruceMoose]

you MUST use the baffle! swap it over to the new intake. the little screws are called PK screws in the aerospace industry, but i dont think anyone else will know what you are talking about. without the baffle you will be sucking tons of oil into the intake system and burning it. and making a mess inside the air cleaner housing too, i think. and just use the valley pan gasket. no gaskets on the sides. and just use rtv instead of the end seals. go to the edelbrock web site for installation instructions. CLEAN ALL MATING SURFACES!!!

good luck with it. mine went really well, and with the addition of efi (see sig), i now have tons of torque, great throttle response, and better mileage (about 13.75).

sm.

[Veepster]

I am with Spruce!!.......except my PCV baffle did not fit so I used the valley pan gasket only and have NO oil burning problem.

[Stuka]

The valley pan will keep most all oil down in the lifter valley. Thats why it is there. The heat shield should be used. It isnt a must, but I advise the use of it.